Antifreeze changed from green to bright yellow.

[Cashburn]

Yellow is the newer formula that works with all the others. I have not seen straight green used in awhile, and at all costs forget that orange sludge.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

I have not seen straight green used in awhile...

Chas and I swear by it -- just change it every three years.

[Dangerous Doug]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

Yellow is the newer formula that works with all the others. I have not seen straight green used in awhile, and at all costs forget that orange sludge.

Orange sludge? What the heck is that?

DD

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

Orange sludge? What the heck is that?

DD

Dexcool? That GM stuff...

[Luce]

What's the beef with dex-cool? Earlier this summer I changed the antifreeze in my 05 Hemi Durango with 140,000 miles. We were getting ready for a road trip, and it occurred to me, I've only popped the hood 4 or 5 times, and have never checked the antifreeze. I was afraid that I would find something resembling over cooked red beans and rice. To my knowledge (I've owned it since new) that's the first time the cap has been opend, and the stuff looked new. It was crystal clear without a speck of rust or sediment.

I think I remember reading that it'll give you problems if your system isn't sealed, or your puke tank is actually being used by the cooling system, but in a properly designed and maintained system, I can find no fault in the stuff.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Luce

What's the beef with dex-cool?

Luce, I don't know the answer to your question. But, I do know that Ford saw fit to actively discourage Dex-Cool in their engines. They even put a sticker on them.

[Luce]

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/ima...-%20Z-1217.pdf

Here's a nice little chart saying what your car should have. OUCH! I think the moron at Autozone sold me dexcool and Dodge used the hybrid. I'll keep a close eye on it and change it soon.

I'll research more and post anything I dig up as interesting AND valid.

I still believe air is the problem, and if you're system burps every time you shut it down, you'll quickly exhaust the corrosion inhibitors and then all of the ills begin. I remember looking into this a while back and reading something to the effect that the organic acids are supposed to build a protective oxide coating, but with continued introduction of oxygen, the oxides flake off, causing the sludge.

But the obvious safe side step is stock up on the green stuff before it's discontinued.