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Need some clutch ideas please
My "Fresh Bullet" is ready to go back in, but I just don't know what clutch to use this time? The one that was in there is fine, however it was always a mo-fo in the pedal effort department.
Any and All ideas are greatly appreciated. Also got my tko 600 rebuilt with the new style syncros and converted it from .64 5th gear to .82 ratio 5th. Can't wait to try it :D |
Hi, JB
I also was unhappy with the high pedal pressure on my first clutch system. I changed over to a Centerforce dual friction setup (matched pp and disc) when I installed my Roush 358 motor, and have been very happy with it. The pedal pressure feels just right - not too heavy or light - and it hooks up fine. My experience - yours may vary :-) Jim Kellogg |
Went with a 12" diaphram in mine just because of pedal pressure,could not be happier.We all have our needs having to drive these cars in stop and go traffic the clutch pressure becomes a very big issue.
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What combination? I would need to know the engine, horsepower rating, bellhousing, and method of actuation (clutch fork? which way does the slave cylinder move?) to give you a recommendation.
I do probably more Cobra clutch kits than anyone else. A common issue is too large of a clutch master cylinder. Even a pressure plate with a light clamping force will prove to be hard to push with an incorrectly matched master/slave. As far as brands, I would stick with either McLeod or RAM. I'm also a dealer for Centerforce, but a lot of Cobra guys have issues with them due to their counterweighted pressure plates. I've also found that the combinations generally won't hold the larger horsepower engines. I would also stay away from the Spec brand. In their higher horsepower clutch kits, they make up for a light static pressure by using an exotic clutch disc, which usually proves to have a lot of chatter and light switch engagement. |
Thank you guys!
Windsor stroker, 500+, Ford aluminum bellhousing, clutch fork, can't remeber which way the slave moves, but I think it pushes toward the front of the car. |
If this is predominantly a street car with street tires, I would use a McLeod Super Street Pro clutch kit. 10.5", Diaphragm pressure plate, rated for about 525hp. It's $389 + shipping. Comes with plate, disc, and throw out bearing.
If you will be running some track time or if you're using drag radials that are sticky, I would use a RAM Powergrip series, rated for 550hp. Complete kit is $335 + shipping. The difference is that this one uses a little more aggressive disc. |
Hi Blykins.
How much of a beating can these clutches take? The guy who yanked my engine said: Jeebus Christ JB, what do you do to this thing??? LOL |
If you're on street tires, the clutch is adjusted correctly, and your driving habits are up to snuff, they should last a very, very long time.
If you're tracking the car or running sticky tires on the street, I would go with the Powergrip clutch. I'm basing this one a 500hp engine rating. I usually like to go engine horsepower + 10%. |
Is that a 26 spline Powergrip clutch?
So these will take more than a Mcleod or a Centerforce. I broke one of the 3 rear trans mount bolts already. Doh I have not had this motor on the Dyno yet, but it is going to be pretty stout. Prolly 520-545 range |
Yes, 26 spline.
The RAM clutches have a more aggressive disc, which increases the power capacity. The Centerforce clutches really have a lot of issues. Typically, they won't hold the horsepower that the McLeod/RAM clutches will. Their pressure plates are OEM replacement plates made by either Luk or Valeo, and they are modified by adding weights to the fingers. In some cases these counterweights will not actuate until very high rpm, so up until that point, the holding capacity isn't much more than a factory/stock clutch kit, unless the disc is upgraded. Is this a street only car with street tires, or will you have it on the track? Given the horsepower update, I would go with the Powergrip. I run the Powergrip and Powergrip HD clutches in a lot of very high horsepower applications, including some 7.50 1/8th mile SBF's running full slicks. |
Street, Track, you name it. Severe duty ;-) Jim Kellog knows Me and my buddy Kenny.
The only thing I can't deal with is chatter. |
Well, there's a common saying....you can't have your cake and eat it too....unless your cake is shaped like a McLeod RST twin disc. :)
When you start getting to the 550-600hp rating, then the friction materials necessary to hold that kind of power start heading towards the exotic sides of things. I've ran those Powergrip and Powergrip HD's in a lot of cars and haven't had any chatter, but my disclaimer is that there is always the possibility with any kind of friction material other than organic/organic. The weight of the car helps a lot and lower rearend (numerically higher) gears help a lot too. If you track the car, I would go with more clutch. I would go with either a Powergrip HD or I can do a custom McLeod clutch, with a diaphragm pressure plate and one of their 600 series discs. The Powergrip HD would be $370 + shipping. It's rated for 650hp. |
This article may help a little bit....I wrote this for Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.
MM&F Tech: Clutch and Pressure Plate Choices - Clutch Plays - Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine |
McLeod RST twin disc
This looks sweet! |
They are.....
Rated for 800hp, organic discs, so no funky street manners. Only drawback is the price. $699 + a throw out bearing + shipping. I'm bolting one on a 750hp BBF in the main picture in that article. |
I want one...
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Quote:
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for his 400 HP engine??;) |
Depends.... if you are Selling me one, or making me a Deal on one ;)
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Everyone likes overkill....hahaha
The Powergrip HD would have certainly been enough, but if someone says that they don't want chatter, I can't guarantee that there won't be any. Personally, I don't mind chatter....especially for a half price clutch...LOL |
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