Roller vs. stamped rockers

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 06-05-2012, 02:09 PM

Putting out 550hp may not sound like much to some, but it requires a little bit of effort, in the way of cubic inches, cam selection, cylinder heads, etc, etc.

Most of the cams that are used in these engines are healthy flat cams or nicely matched roller cams. Those cams with .600-.650" lift will put factory parts to the test, especially without hardened shafts, end stands, etc, etc.

Non-adjustable factory rockers are laughingly inappropriate in this type of scenario, and the factory adjustable rockers that I've seen on Edelbrock heads don't provide good rocker arm to valve tip geometry.

In my mind, at the very least, upgraded stands and shafts should be used, then you're worrying about the cast bodies of the rocker arms and the adjusters holding up.

In a 300-350hp hydraulic flat tappet engine, I could see where these would be appropriate. In a $17k-18k all-aluminum, 550-600hp roller engine, these are not even a consideration on my builds. I wouldn't want that build compromised on a set of cheap rockers. Even with an aesthetics standpoint, I'd hate to show off my $5000 engine block, $3000 set of heads, ported and matched intake manifold, then pull off the valve covers to see a set of 40 year old cast iron rocker stands and rocker bodies....

Jeff, I know I spoke with you on the phone about this, but I don't feel like I stated my case thoroughly enough. The benefit may not solely be on the horsepower side, but it is very much on the reliability side.

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 06-05-2012, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Jeff, I know I spoke with you on the phone about this, but I don't feel like I stated my case thoroughly enough. The benefit may not solely be on the horsepower side, but it is very much on the reliability side.

Jeff, you should really listen to Brent. I'll give this to him: He is absolutely honest as the day is long and he will help you get an engine that will last and that will stay within your budget. I'm afraid if you start picking out parts yourself you might pick something like a cheap Chinese rockershaft and you'll pay for it big time later. Brent knows ways to shave costs off your engine that will not endanger it and that will lend itself to easy upgrading later. For instance, he might put my Holley 3310 on there for you and it would cost less than $200 -- you could upgrade that to the thousand dollar carb at a later date with no trouble and with no risk of damaging your engine in the meantime.

mkassab · #4 (**permalink**) 06-06-2012, 04:55 AM

I concur.... go with Brent's advice. Brent is building my 3rd engine project. Also give strong consideration to Brent being your engine builder!!! It will pay off more in dividends beyond the engine itself. Brent will always be there for you!!

Good Luck, Mark

redmt · #5 (**permalink**) 06-06-2012, 08:20 AM

X4 on Brent. He is an encyclopedia of current info and products that work together. Any body can order up a pile of parts that will fit. The trick is to know which parts work together. Besides all that , he's a pretty good guy to work with in your build. He's building a 410 SB for a coupe project I'm working on now.

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 06-06-2012, 09:23 AM

Dang, you can get my carb off of Ebay for $89.

A quick rebuild and it would be good as new (and I really do like my carb). HOLLEY 4160 750 CFM 4 BBL CARB CARBURETOR LIST 3310 - 2 | eBay Between the carb, flywheel, clutch package, bellhousing, and valve covers alone, I bet ol' Brent could shave well over a grand off of your first set of rough numbers.

Maybe even two....