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On my car I have found 550-600 rwhp is the sweet spot (limit) for reasonable street driveability with fresh drag radial tires on good roads during warmer weather. If someone is having problem with spinning their tires at 70 mph running 500 flywheel hp (approx 420 rwhp), then it might be time to look at upgrading tires or checking suspension settings. When I first got my car I had 420 rwhp and had no tire spin in 1st when rolling into the throttle (I had 3.08 rearend gearing at the time). Cheers.
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Bill Cosby's car was not a typical 427 Cobra - apples to watermelon comparison. Bill Cosby did not ship his car back. I believe this is essentially correct, or at least what I remember reading. |
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427 SO block, 428 crank, Ford "Sidewinder" dual plane intake manifold, custom grind cam shaft (.507 lift with 274/284 duration and 110 lobe separation), Edelbrock RPM Performer heads with 2.19 intake valves, Comp Cams roller rocker kit (with end posts), Holley 850 DP 4150 carb, Edelbrock water pump, Canton 8 qt oil pan, -12 oil cooler, Melling (non-HV) oil pump, ARP bolts and modified sidepipes. I run a Lakewood bellhousing with a wide ratio toploader and 3.08 rear end gearing. The car sreams and I have never felt the need for more power. Even with the high gears, the car drives just a little faster than I can think but not so much that it scares me. Too much. I am still playing with the ingition so no advice from me on this. Horsepower and torque numbers? Not sure but it feels like 500/550ish. With the modified pipes it sounds like even more. Have fun. |
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And just for the record, I do not have a preference of L/H to R/H turns. The majority of drivers, or motorcycle riders have a preference and feel more comfortable one way or the other. That has never been an issue for me. |
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As much horsepower as your skills allow you to use effectively. I have seen Dennis Olthoff dominate with a 400HP Cobra against 600HP cars. My car has more horsepower than I can effectively use but I am smart enough to recognize that and respect my car.
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Don't forget me:3DSMILE: Quote:
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Admit that you were right about something?:LOL: Let me drink a few more beers and think about it.:p:D |
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And lord have mercy on my soul. :rolleyes::D |
Not sure how much is too much but I have 480 HP and 580 TQ at the flywheel in a FE SO 454 inch motor with Avons and it did this with an off idle launch.......
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../halfshaft.jpg In previous attempts with drag radials the results were a bit more dramatic..... http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...0508-00011.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/break1-1.jpg |
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A lot of great replies with various viewpoints on this topic. Thanks!!! It is pretty obvious that choice of tires, suspension differences between the replicas as well as setup makes a big difference in how well any of these replicas can put the power down.
I originally asked the question because in my opinion and it is just my opinion, a replica car made of fiberglass with virtually zero safety measures built into it such as traction control, stability control, ABS, no airbags, virtually no protection from impacts on any side of it... etc... etc... :) should be powered in a way that would not break traction and result in wheel spin at the tip of the gas pedal in just about any gear. :) Driving even semi aggressively on the back roads in performance cars with HP numbers in excess of 500HP and some 1,000+ lb difference over the Cobra replicas as well as running state of the art street tires, it is still NOT uncommon to see the traction control and stability control to be quite busy.... With them off, all hell breaks loose in a blink of an eye as well. That's in a modern performance car with chassis and suspension designed and built with the best of the current technology and engineering for street driven cars. I'm talking about cars that come from the best of the best from Germany and Italy as well as USA... :cool: Yes, I've been on the track, yes, I drive with "enthusiasm", yes, I have experience with over 500HP cars and yet I'm thinking that somewhere in the range of 425HP or so would be more than enough for me in any of the Cobra replica.... If I am wrong, I will just have to live with a boring Cobra for a while! :o Thanks for all the replies! Would be interesting to hear even more opinions on this! |
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It's been discussed a number of times, but these cars are flat out dangerous. And it can be argued as to whether a motorcycle or a Cobra is worse and both sides will have a good argument. If you are looking for safety, consider looking a Corvette. And I don't mean that in a nasty way. There are lots of people that just have to have a Cobra, get one and then find out it's not for them. |
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In your original post, you never mentioned whether you were thinking of building a SB or BB replica, but you ought to consider building a nice simple 302 like Tim built for his SB ERA.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...ld-log-22.html SBF's are cheaper to build and make good power. I'm sure Tim's car scoots well. And someday if more power is desired, you can upgrade to a bigger SBF (stroked Windsor) or a BBF (385 or FE). |
Just saw Tin-Man's Cobra at the Shelby show in Pomona.
It's all sorted out and looks purdy. Just don't know who's gonna shell out $120k for it. There's another $120k SPF out there but I digress. There's a lot of good advice here, PHC1. The horror stories usually start with wide eyed posts like yours...as they should. Get as much seat time as possible. |
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I love the fact when someone is new to Cobras, we all suggest buying a Corvette instead. How about a Porsche, BMW, Mini Cooper, Mustang or a Miata? :p Best Affordable Sports Cars Rankings | U.S. News Best Cars |
For half of what he will spend on a Cobra he can get a beautiful and fast 911 that will actually make sense to own.:cool:
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