Gasket Problems contn'd

[zzmac]

Having trouble finding the correct gaskets for my water pump (2) and my thermostat. Engine is a Roush 402R and the water pump is a Weiand 8210. Engine has a standard Roush billet V pulley.

Roush said to use a 1992-1996 Ford F150 with a 351W but the water pump Ford ordered for this is wrong. The gasket from the plate to the block has 8 bolt holes & the Ford gasket had 7 and it didn't line up with the holes anyways.

Anyone have any ideas?

Also I can't find the right gasket for the thermostat housing. Everyone has the right bolt pattern gasket but the hole opening is too small. The gasket that was on it goes just to the outside of the thermostat flange and the Ford (& others) gasket covers the edge of the flange.

I'd really prefer using the gaskets if anyone has part numbers for me but I guess Permatex gasket maker is always an option.

[zzmac]

The good folks at Roush are sending me the water pump gaskets. They swear the early 90s F150 w/ 351W fit and I tend to believe them because they built the engine. :-)

Maybe the Ford dealer brought in the wrong one. I'll post part #s for others when I get this sorted out.

[madmaxx]

Use Loctite on the two bottom screws on the backing plate, it is impossible to tighten them on the car.

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Use Loctite on the two bottom screws on the backing plate, it is impossible to tighten them on the car.

Thanks Madmaxx.

[zzmac]

Thermostat Gasket: I found one on the net but you can't order it seperately. It comes with a Mr. Gasket water neck assembly for a 79 Mustang.
Mr. Gasket brand | Part #: 9713
The opening in the hole is 2 1/4". All the other ones going with the Ford F150 has a smaller hole which interferes with the thermostat flange. So for this I'm just going to use the Permatex gasket maker.

Water Pump Gaskets (on both sides of the backing plates): The ones Roush are sending me were sent unfortunately by snail mail and I don't want to wait 2 weeks to get them. I've been to 5-6 parts stores and they all have the same configuration as the one at the Ford dealer and they don't fit this water pump.

I'm now thinking of using the Permatex for both sides of the backing plates. Are there any real good reasons why I shouldn't do this or should the Permatex (Red, high temperature gasket maker) be ok for the water pump gaskets too?

Thanks for your help.

[madmaxx]

Felpro35211 pump to timing cover, felpro 35066 pump to backing plate, autozone, oreilys everyone sell them

[madmaxx]

1.99 each

Felpro Timing cover Tao block 90093
Timing cover seal national 2942
Felpro Intake manifold 1262s3. Metal reinforced!!!!!

[madmaxx]

Thermostat gasket is generic, ask for water neck gasket for 1979 f150 with 351. I know it's a cluster fuk every time you need something. You can cut the hole bigger with a razor blade!

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Thermostat gasket is generic, ask for water neck gasket for 1979 f150 with 351. I know it's a cluster fuk every time you need something. You can cut the hole bigger with a razor blade!

I actually bought a couple of gaskets the other day with the intention of making the holes bigger and forgot about it with all the running around for the w/p gaskets today. Thx

[madmaxx]

Use Indian head or permatex aviation gasket sealant with gaskets, if you use Rtv the gasket will squirt out. Stupid water pump design. Once you get through a temp cycle retorque, may have to do it numerous times.

When I say torque I mean snug up and if gasket starts to pinch out stop. At least 15 ftlbs.

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Use Indian head or permatex aviation gasket sealant with gaskets, if you use Rtv the gasket will squirt out. Stupid water pump design. Once you get through a temp cycle retorque, may have to do it numerous times.

When I say torque I mean snug up and if gasket starts to pinch out stop. At least 15 ftlbs.

Thanks a lot Madmaxx. Those Felpro gaskets do look like the right ones!
The parts stores kept telling me Felpro 35380 & 35397. Just curious, do you know what car/engine combo your part #s are from?

Thanks again!

[madmaxx]

Engine is same as yours. I have part numbers for everything so if you ever need something shoot me a PM. I really struggled with the &)((*&()& pump leaking between the pump and backing plate. That is when I determined to use loctite on the bottom bolts. I retorqued about 5 times over 2 months and zero leaks. Another trick you can use and its a pretty good one is put some Bars leak in the radiator, it will seal all those pesky leaks, a half a bottle would be plenty. I bet 75% of the ford water pumps weep but unless you have a polished engine you might never know it. If you have not replaced the crappy oil pressure line to your sending oil gauge change it out, the POS push pin will leak, run down the engine and convince you it a valve cover or manifold. Some shop in florda sells a stainless steel braided line with the fkup britsh thread for the oil gauge, it works perfect but should be standard on a $40k plus roller.

[ACademic]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Some shop in florda sells a stainless steel braided line with the fkup britsh thread for the oil gauge, it works perfect but should be standard on a $40k plus roller.

The shop you are referring to is B.A.T. (British American Transfer). And your continued bitterness toward SPF has no bounds. Are you a card carrying member of the patrickt SPF Haters club?

[madmaxx]

Originally Posted by ACademic

The shop you are referring to is B.A.T. (British American Transfer). And your continued bitterness toward SPF has no bounds. Are you a card carrying member of the patrickt SPF Haters club?

What are you talking about? I owened 3 of their cars, because I think they went cheap and they did on an oll line I hate them? I put my money where my mouth is. I have no issues listing all my problems, most are easily corrected and would cost the builder no money. To be fair my Lexus had a headlight get condensate after 90k miles, only prob it ever had, you would think they would know how to build a headlight.

[madmaxx]

[quote=madmaxx;1209828]What are you talking about? I owened 3 of their cars, because I think they went cheap and they did on an oll line I hate them? I put my money where my mouth is. I have no issues listing all my problems, most are easily corrected and would cost the builder no money. To be fair my Lexus had a headlight get condensate after 90k miles, only prob it ever had, you would think they would know how to build a headlight

I am a supporter of patrickt can't argue with the truth.

[madmaxx]

Another thing, install a 195F thermostat if not already. I found the engine would not get above 160 in the freezing Houston winter months. That was horrible, cold cylinder walls and hot piston equals excessive wear. Forget about the pipe dream cold make more hp on the coolant, yes on the air side. Mine was an 180f, with a hole for an air bleed. I found thermostats open at there rating but dont fully close for 10 degrees below. I guess the spf cooling system is so good / large I had ample cooling with a tiny hole in the 180F. I tried numerous 180f thermostats and all the same result very slow warm up and never above 165F except summer. Now with the 195F I warm up and 95% of the time in summer I am still only at 180F!!!! yes I checked the accuracy of my temp guage and it was dead on!

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Another thing, install a 195F thermostat if not already. I found the engine would not get above 160 in the freezing Houston winter months. That was horrible, cold cylinder walls and hot piston equals excessive wear. Forget about the pipe dream cold make more hp on the coolant, yes on the air side. Mine was an 180f, with a hole for an air bleed. I found thermostats open at there rating but dont fully close for 10 degrees below. I guess the spf cooling system is so good / large I had ample cooling with a tiny hole in the 180F. I tried numerous 180f thermostats and all the same result very slow warm up and never above 165F except summer. Now with the 195F I warm up and 95% of the time in summer I am still only at 180F!!!! yes I checked the accuracy of my temp guage and it was dead on!

In speaking with Roush the other day, I asked them about using a 180 degree thermostat. They said to use a 160 degree standard flow thermostat and drill a 3/32" hole in the flange.

[madmaxx]

Originally Posted by zzmac

In speaking with Roush the other day, I asked them about using a 180 degree thermostat. They said to use a 160 degree standard flow thermostat and drill a 3/32" hole in the flange.

So you will run at 150f?, horrible idea. Every car today runs at 210f and goes 8k miles or more prior to needing oil and they last over 200k let's see how long your engine last. Call blykins or Keith craft. You do want to flash off the moisture / condensate in the oil I would hope. Mine came with 180f and it was brand new when I got it.

[madmaxx]

Make sure you take a piece of plexiglass and block off your oil cooler!