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Possible New Cobra: Oversized Oil Pan Road Clearance Issue
Hi Everyone! Just stumbled accross this site and signed up. I'm looking at picking up a used replica that still needs a bit of work and had a few questions (a few to get started at least).
Few things I know so far: Supposedly a Shell Valley. Engine is a bored/Stroked 390. Wanting to have as a weekend around town car and once a week drive to work (8 miles). 1. The main concern is that there is an oversized oilpan that sticks down leaving only about 2" clearance to the ground. Has anyone dealt with this? Seems like I'd need raise the front end? What is realistic clearance for the roads... 6" min? I'm guessing the large oilpan is likely due to the stroker engine. I wonder if I could just switch it out to a smaller pan? 2. Apparently it was built by Trac Stephensen. I see his name around a bit, looks like he was in Colorado in 2007 then in Austin, but contact information looks outdated. Does anyone know if he is still around? thanks! |
The oil pan should not be the lowest point on your car so hold off on raising it up to gain clearance. Look for a road race type oil pan like the one from Aviaid. They're only 6" deep and should give you all the clearance you need.
Frank |
Canton also makes road race T style pans that are shallow and will work well.
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yes, i had the same issue with a Mildon pan.
I swapped it for a road-race Canton pan (need to change the oil pump and pickup most likely) Canton got me back up to ~4 inches of clearance, lots of baffles for taking higher speed turns on the road courses - if you do that kind of thing ;) |
Measure your pan at its deepest point. Typical to be about 6", the Cobra tee shaped pans are usually the same depth as a stock one but they have extra capacity and traps for oil control inside. Do you have a lot of clearance between the hood and motor? Maybe the engine/drive train is mounted low.
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To best aid our new friend Mr. Bigglesworth... (Welcome to CC sir).
Short of a Kirkham billet piece what would be the best oil pan to increase his clearance? Or another way to ask the same question... Which is the shallowest oil pan for his purpose? |
On my Shell Valley Coupe my Aviaid pan on a small block still dropped about an inch below the frame rails. I made a skid plate out of steel that bolts to the frame and shields the pan. Your ride heights should be about 4" front and 4.5-5" rear. Start with as everyone else said, a good road race pan that is as shallow as you can get. It only takes one raised man hole cover to leave all your oil on the street.
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Either Canton or Aviaid pans will work fine. I think both are the same depth. For Canton make sure it's a road race pan. Also, check that installation/removal can be done on both with the engine in the car. On my CSX, you have to raise the engine to remove and Aviaid pan because they have a larger/longer sump area. You can remove a Canton pan without raising the engine (although it's still a PITA).
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Thanks a lot for all the replies! It sounds pretty straightforward to go to a new pan. I'm going to look at it this weekend and will snap a few photos of the bottom/current pan and clearance, and also snap a few photos of the car itself.
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Here's a quick pick. It's an older (15 years or so) Shell Valley.
Does it look a little long in the proportoins? |
I did get it down to 5" and still keep the windage tray and oil control traps but it was a project.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-t...ick-acton.html |
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I went and looked at the car this weekend. First, the bad news: it looks like the oilpan is already fairly low profile. You can see in this first set of pictures, the oil pan size and clearance. There is approximately 2.25" clearance between the bottom and the ground.
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Additional bad news: the transmission bellhousing is also very close to the ground (2.5" or so). I've read (searching on this site) that you can trim them on the bottom. This one looks to me like someone has already trimmed it, though there may be another half inch or so that could come off.
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you hit it right on the head
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Bigglesworth---my armchair advice is to NOT purchase that car. There are plenty of Cobras for sale and I would be concerned that there are other unnoticed issues with the particular car you are looking at---just from what I've seen.
Think about if you had a blow-out at highway speeds: The tire goes flat and suddenly you have NO steering because you are sliding on a couple of metal chunks under your Cobra---one being the oil pan that is slowly being ground open as it slides across the pavement with flying sparks and red-hot metal flying everywhere and then comes the oil...and then the flames, first under the car and then up into the cockpit as the fiberglass lights up. Then you realize you're taking somebody for their first Cobra ride. Then you hit a tree, because you still can't steer. Dude, if you're going to buy a Cobra take your time. Talk to some local Cobra owners and check out different kinds of kits: ERA, Kirkham, Superformance, Factory Five, and so on. Check your budget, and shop around. Don't buy the first one you check out. I had the good fortune of saving for four years to buy my Cobra. Studied, thought, and checked out everything. Very happy with my ERA. Good luck, and say "Hi" to Dr. Evil for me. DD |
Thanks Doug (and others). I hear you. I realize I would be buying a project, not a complete car. That's partially what interested me in the beginning. I'm leaning slightly against buying it now, still not quite done what-iffing though.
I'm gathering information about how to reconfigure to get the engine and trans raised and what i'd be in for. |
I agree with Doug, pass on this one.
By the time you fix "all" the problems you can buy a better Cobra for less. Dwight |
I don't see where he mentioned a price. Who knows, that might make it worth taking on a project. Can't hurt to shop around though.
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I can't help but think that all things are done for a reason (most of the time...), and because there seemed like no other option. There must be a reason why the engine and transmission were mounted so low. Maybe it was a hood clearance issue and easily fixed, or perhaps there is a firewall and transmission tunnel issue, that would be much more difficult.
I'd say, shop around a bit more and I'll bet you'll find some interesting Cobras in your budget that have less life-threatening characteristics. Check out the Cobras for sale here on clubcobra, and check out Cobracountry.com, as well. Hit a few locals up for a ride---the more daring may even let you drive! Anyhow, meet some people, check out some different cars, and ease into it. You'll be happier having made your decision with a broad perspective. Hang loose, DD |
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