Headlight adjustment/aim

wrogers55 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-30-2012, 08:59 PM

Anyone remember the old school way to adjust/aim headlights by using a set distance from a wall and so on. I really don't want to take it to a machine unless I just can't get it right.

Thanks

Wbulk · #2 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 04:01 AM

1. Do this at night when it's dark on a flat road surface with a wall in front of you.

2. Measure the distance from the center of the vehicle to the center where the bulb is in the headlight. Measure the distance from the road surface up to the center of the headlight bulb. Record measurements.

3. Pull the vehicle straight ahead to the wall and mark the wall vertically where the center of the vehicle is with ¾ inch masking tape.

4. Back the vehicle up 25 feet, keeping it straight.

5. Mark the centerline on the wall of each headlight bulb from the measurements taken earlier. Mark it vertically, again using masking tape.

6. Mark the center height on the wall horizontally from the ground of each headlight "minus two inches", again using masking tape.

7. Turn on the headlights.

8. Cover one of the headlights up so you can adjust the other.

9. Adjust the headlights on low beam so that it is centered on the taped cross on the wall. Note. You may want to adjust the left headlight slightly right of the cross to avoid shinning the light in the eyes of on-coming traffic. Adjust the other headlight.

10. Take the tape off the wall and you are done.

strictlypersonl · #3 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 04:44 AM

#9: You should have the high beams on, not the low beams. The low beams will end up lower and to the curb side when the lights are properly aligned.

E-How: Headlight alignment

Skuzzy · #4 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 07:16 AM

Just note a garage floor or driveway is not level. It does go uphill to allow for drainage.

Take a laser level and check the drop from the point where the front wheels are sitting and noted the amount of drop to the rear wheels. Use a board to shim the rear tires off the floor to get the car absolutely level, then perform the magic.

You can also compensate for the drop by moving the tape on the wall. Just need to do so geometry to get that number.

G-Pete · #5 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

#9: You should have the high beams on, not the low beams. The low beams will end up lower and to the curb side when the lights are properly aligned.

E-How: Headlight alignment

E-How did not ever adjusted a headlight - the adjustments are done on low beam. The adjustments make sure you don't blind oncoming traffic. The whole reason for this exercise.

Skuzzy, as long the floor to the wall is not more than 15 degrees off the floor it makes no difference.

Wbulk · #6 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 08:44 AM

Actually I believe #9 is correct. Under #6 it says: " Mark the center height on the wall horizontally from the ground of each headlight "minus two inches", again using masking tape." So that allows for the high beam issue.

I don't remember where I got this but I have used it for years and never had a problem. Yes you do need to do this on a level surface. At 25' back I knew exactly what size blocks to put under which tires.

Wayne

Added: I guess if you didn't drop the tape down 2" under #6 and you used the high beams under #9 that would work. Never tried it that way.

CHANMADD · #7 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 09:26 AM

Should be on high beam while adjusting, when the low beams are activated they are automatically focused to the curb by the glass lenses, or nowadays by the reflector behind the bulb. ....The high beams should shine straight and level. Pick a dark night ,put your car in the road (make sure its quite..no other cars) and adjust the lights to perfection.........there really is no fantastic science here!

patf11 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 09:41 AM

Daniel Stern is a automotive lighting consultant, his web site has lots of information.

His method uses low beam.

How To Aim Headlamps and Auxiliary Lamps

G-Pete · #9 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

Should be on high beam while adjusting, when the low beams are activated they are automatically focused to the curb by the glass lenses, or nowadays by the reflector behind the bulb. ....The high beams should shine straight and level. Pick a dark night ,put your car in the road (make sure its quite..no other cars) and adjust the lights to perfection.........there really is no fantastic science here!

That might work with a 1966 6 volt VW Beetle.

CHANMADD · #10 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 01:29 PM

Pete, Having been a used car dealer rebuilder, for 30 plus years I can assure you that I have adjusted more than my fair share..... I have also had the good fortune to have worked in some of the most prestigious dealerships who have had the factory aiming machines........but I guess that I am just stabbing in the dark

patrickt · #11 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

Pete, Having been a used car dealer rebuilder, for 30 plus years I can assure you that I have adjusted more than my fair share..... I have also had the good fortune to have worked in some of the most prestigious dealerships who have had the factory aiming machines........but I guess that I am just stabbing in the dark

It's next to impossible to tell Pete anything....

strictlypersonl · #12 (**permalink**) 10-31-2012, 05:09 PM

What confused me about #9 is that you want to "center" the light on the cross. As Daniel Stern described, the left side of the beam should be below the line. The classic way to align headlights was to aim the high beams straight ahead. On dimming, the low beams will end up in the correct place. That technique may be more applicable to the old-style non-Halogen sealed beams than contemporary bulbs.

G-Pete · #13 (**permalink**) 11-01-2012, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

Pete, Having been a used car dealer rebuilder, for 30 plus years I can assure you that I have adjusted more than my fair share..... I have also had the good fortune to have worked in some of the most prestigious dealerships who have had the factory aiming machines........but I guess that I am just stabbing in the dark

Sir, you just made my point. Why would you advice guys who never adjusted a headlight to go out there in the dark and take a wild guess where the light should aim.

The reference to the 6V beetle was made because it does not matter where you aim

you cant blind squat.

Just keep in mind, people read advice such as yours, go out do it and fail of lack experience or skills.

Patrickt,
the internet forums are/can be good to to educate people - but it can be also full of misinformation. Good example E-How in the former post...
I just jump in when I see wrong - that's all. (see above)

G-Pete · #14 (**permalink**) 11-01-2012, 05:57 AM

Chanmadd just triggered a thought.
I'm pretty sure if you drive to a dealership and ask nice (especially FORD) to check the headlight aim, they will drool over the car and adjust that for free - just bring a box of donuts....

Frank Messina · #15 (**permalink**) 11-06-2012, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

Pete, Having been a used car dealer rebuilder, for 30 plus years I can assure you that I have adjusted more than my fair share..... I have also had the good fortune to have worked in some of the most prestigious dealerships who have had the factory aiming machines........but I guess that I am just stabbing in the dark

Most of us garage types don't have the luxury of an aiming machine so we resort to the blank wall technique which demands low beam aim only. The high beams will be automatically correctly aimed. If you have an optic aimer that wants the high beams on then go for it, but that isn't the way it gets done otherwise. FWIW

Frank

mdross1 · #16 (**permalink**) 11-06-2012, 02:40 PM

One thing is for certain you get them too high you can bet someone will let you know.Reading these threads sounds like we all have a little different take on the procedure.