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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2013, 09:26 AM
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Kevin, curious why you decided to undercoat. Peter at ERA mentioned they use CoreMat in the wells so there is no need for the undercoat. I finished my front wheel wells and I like the look of the aluminum but I can see how it could get pretty bashed up over time. The painter sprayed the underside of my fiberglass in the wheel wells black, so it looks good now.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2013, 10:29 AM
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I think its more of a personal preference thing than a functional requirement. I undercoated mine because I wanted to seal the underside of the fiberglass to help prevent anything kicked up or otherwise from attacking the underside of the fiberglass and coming through under the paint - I liked it blacked out - and I don't like to hear small stones pinging off of the wheel well panels as I drive. Battery acid, AC unit oil, and brake fluid can all attack fiberglass from the underside and bubble paint. Owners of older Corvette know about this problem. Undercoating isn't probably the best sealer against it but it will stop some stuff and slow the rest of it down. Painting the underside will do the same thing somewhat - depending on the type paint.

Last edited by DanEC; 05-13-2013 at 10:33 AM..
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2013, 10:47 PM
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kevin,car looks great i was wondering if i could ask you some questions about your car and the choices you have made . i am not far from you .i try to read info on sites and on here as well . i feel the best way to made choices is to see and talk face to face and see it.anyone can say / type anything on here or web sites.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2013, 10:54 PM
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Sweeeet...
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
Kevin, curious why you decided to undercoat. Peter at ERA mentioned they use CoreMat in the wells so there is no need for the undercoat. I finished my front wheel wells and I like the look of the aluminum but I can see how it could get pretty bashed up over time. The painter sprayed the underside of my fiberglass in the wheel wells black, so it looks good now.
Hi Lippy,

I'm traveling so didn't see this until just now and already responded to your other thread. I won't repeat what I said in your thread but will add that I rode in a Cobra on a road that was a bit gravely and it was pretty noisy (the car was not undercoated). We were going slow - 20 miles per hour or so because of the gravel - but to me it was like fingernails on a chalkboard. I think the biggest thing to key in on is what the aluminum will look like over time. Maybe some of the guys that didn't undercoat can comment on that. I'm pleased with the outcome but will tell you that spraying undercoating wasn't my favorite part of the build!

Regards,

Kevin
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:50 PM
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Got up early this morning and spent the entire day applying scratch and swirl remover. Twelve hours later I now have a mirror finish and both my arms feel like they will fall off. Car is sitting overnight with a coat of Zaino 5. Fortunately, now that the finish is as close to perfect as it can be, the Zaino products are easy to apply. That's a good thing, because I have no elbow grease left in me.
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Old 06-02-2013, 05:32 PM
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Be a shame if you actually drive somewhere.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2013, 07:07 PM
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Be a shame if you actually drive somewhere.
My 7 year-old Harley looks brand new - it can be done, and I don't mind the work, although I was kinda whining about it a bit there...

This car will get driven.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2013, 07:10 PM
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This car will get driven.
You can take it for a little, albeit illegal, quickie drive when you get the engine, trans, wheels and suspension in. When do you think that will be?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:01 AM
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I should have the engine by mid-July. I'll be painting it, getting the bellhousing dialed in and should be good to go. The wiring is all in, the trunk is carpeted and I'm working on the rest of the carpet now, all four wheels are on so I should be able to focus on the engine once I get it. I'm hoping to get the car on the road toward the end of summer but a lot depends on my work schedule and, of course, what issues I run into with the car.

And, yes, a few illegal drives around the neighborhood will be too tempting to pass up...

On another topic, I have a single reservoir for the clutch and brakes. Does anyone have a clever way to be able to put fluid in and bleed the brakes without the clutch slave cylinder mounted? I could hook it up, but obviously can't mount it. I haven't looked into this yet, but since I was thinking of things remaining to do, bleeding the brakes would be one more thing off the list while I'm waiting for the engine.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:22 AM
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Does anyone have a clever way to be able to put fluid in and bleed the brakes without the clutch slave cylinder mounted? .
Air in the line to the clutch master cylinder will not affect the bleeding of the brakes, even with a single reservoir.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:25 AM
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Air in the line to the clutch master cylinder will not affect the bleeding of the brakes, even with a single reservoir.
That's what I was hoping, but wasn't sure. I could just hook up the slave cylinder and temporarily tie strap it to the chassis so I can bleed the brakes.

Thanks.

Kevin
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kevins2 View Post
That's what I was hoping, but wasn't sure. I could just hook up the slave cylinder and temporarily tie strap it to the chassis so I can bleed the brakes.

Thanks.

Kevin
Naaah, just put a little plug in the end of the clutch line so fluid doesn't leak out. Sooner or later you're bound to accidentally push the clutch pedal and if you don't have the hydraulics hooked up to it you won't squirt the slave apart when you do.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:53 AM
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The port in the reservoir for the clutch is quite a bit higher up than the brakes. You could fill to just below the clutch port and have no mess at all bleeding the brakes.

John
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:40 AM
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Thanks Patrick and John - appreciate the help. John, the two brake ports are on the bottom of the reservoir and the clutch port is slightly lower than half way up, so I see what you're saying. Good to know I can keep working while waiting for the engine.

Thanks,

Kevin
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2013, 01:37 PM
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Haven't posted any updates on the car in a while - still waiting on my motor, which hopefully will be ready for a dyno run by end of next week. Meanwhile, since I can't seem to leave the car alone, I've been doing "busy work" projects like making a bracket and mount for a sissor jack and installing a permanent battery tender cable. Today, I temporarily installed the dash and checked out some of the electrical components. Asked a couple questions in other threads so won't repeat here. Saw that I haven't posted any photos since I got the car on all four wheels, so here's what it looks like now.







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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2013, 02:10 PM
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car is looking great, you are doing a excellent job with the build. let us know how the big side oiler does on the dyno.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2013, 02:58 PM
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looks real good Kevin.......post some engine/cam specs...
i heard through a little birdie you were going hydraulic roller?
with edel. heads?

i picked up my motor......Doug did a great job for me...
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2013, 03:19 PM
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Absolutely beautiful!!!
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2013, 04:42 PM
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Thanks Murray, I hope to be using your shop crane soon!

Fred, I will post the specs with the dyno results. The numbers won't impress anyone on this forum as I'm targeting something north of 450 hp, so nothing radical. Yes, I went hydraulic roller with Edelbrock heads/intake. Glad to hear that Doug did well by you. So far, not a negative report on him to be found anywhere...
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