Snake2998,
Interesting that "real" race cars, paddle-shifted and not, are catching up with our use of automatics
I've been piloting an automatic on tracks such as Sebring, Daytona etc in my Cobra because I'm way too linear to do heel and toe and still learn the line...
My approach is to simply put it in Drive and drive.
My engine has enough power to provide tire motivation at all speeds so the idea of shifting it isn't an issue.
I have a C-6 built by Rossler in Girard, OH specifically for this kind of abuse; it works well on the street too. He does some real good GM trans buildups too.
Some other considerations have been cooling and heat generation. The cooling is taken care of by assuring plenty of
oil flow in both the trans and the converter, and a large
oil cooler. I confess it took four transmissions and three converters to get the right setup
My torque converter is very low stall, basically stock, at around 1600 rpm. If you have a small block you may need a looser converter, but that may increase the heat load.
In any case, you need enough torque at the back tires to allow you to pick up the exit speed from a corner, but no more. If you have to feather the throttle exiting turns you may not want to downshift at all.
It's a pretty simple thing to try: leave it in Drive, run the course and see how it performs. If it doesn't increase lap times, you're good to go. If it does increase lap times maybe you need a little looser converter or a different rear axle ratio.
If the tires chirp after you do your turn-in - while you're not going straight ahead, you're asking for real problems. That sound means you have momentarily lost traction with the back tires; if you're cornering at anywhere near 90-100%, a spin is the usual result
Best of luck figuring it out!
Tom
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