AN fitting sanity check

[lippy]

This is my first time working with AN fittings so I'd appreciate some help on this one. The fitting on the hard line (first photo) is an AN -8 female. I assembled the hose with the fitting shown in the second photo, and it *should* be an AN -8 male. It seems to butt up fine against the flare on the female fitting, but it doesn't have the "cone" that fits inside of the female flare. I also needed to torque it pretty darn hard to make it tight enough so the nut doesn't spin easily, even with some Aeroquip assembly oil.

So my questions are:
(1) Does the fitting in the second photo look like the correct male fitting to match up with the female one on the hard line?
(2) How hard do you normally have to torque these fittings?


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr

[vector1]

looks like an inverted flare and regular flare, they don't like each other. and those are hydraulic lines? they are going to take a bit more torque to seal than the aluminum fittings which don't take much at all. and be careful not to mix the 45 & 37 degree stuff.

[joyridin']

The second one looks like a hydraulic hose fitting with a double flare. Not sure if it is a -8 or not. Usually double flares are 45 degrees. I have never seen a 37 degree double flare.

[Gaz64]

There's no way those two will go together, they are both female flares meant to mate will male nipple fittings.
The male is always harder than the female, easy enough to remember, .

Definately not AN either.

[G-Pete]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Definitely not AN either.

Second to that

[MOTORHEAD]

Is the second photo a mistake ? If not, you're trying to mate two FEMALE FLARES . The nuts are female (1st pic) and male (2nd pic) but the flares on the TUBES are both Female !!

[lippy]

This is the part: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1142/overview/. It says -8 AN hose to -8 AN male, and the photo is the same as the part. So where am I wrong here, and what is the right part?

[vector1]

the fitting with the male threads is 45 degree, is the other 45 degree also? there is probably a fitting to mate the two, would be an inverted flare to -8 male flare.

probably something like this, but I can't tell if your flares are the same.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640630/overview/

[Luce]

The second pic is an inverted flare and is not at all compatible with the AN flare in the first pic, but I bet you could find a fitting to connect the two together... well, maybe in AN3/ to 3/16.

[lippy]

I spoke with Summit technical support. You are correct. It's an inverted flare. As you can see on the Summit link, their description is flat out wrong. That's why I bought it. The problem is that I hope I didn't bugger up the threads of the nut on the hard line. What I think I will need to do is use a -8 AN male to -8 AN male coupler out of the hard line, and make a new hose with a -8 AN female end to connect.

[lippy]

I *think* I got lucky and dodged a bullet. I connected the -8 AN female nut on the hard line to a -8 male to -8 male coupler, then made a new female to female hose to the filter, which connects directly to the fitting on the gas tank. The coupler screwed right in, so I'm guessing the threads on the nut weren't damaged. This is how it looks now.


Untitled by Lippy111, on Flickr

[vector1]

looks good, make sure you have enough flex in the soft line for any movement.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by vector1

looks good, make sure you have enough flex in the soft line for any movement.

There is a little bit of flex, but only a very little. But the braided line just runs from the tank to the hard line, which is clamped about 8" from the end. Any chassis flex would be along the length of the car, or a small amount of torsional movement. So why would I need more flex than I have? Thanks!

[vector1]

Sounds like you have enough, I said 'make sure', not 'you don't'.

[PLDRIVE]

Looks good Lippy.

[Rick Parker]

Lippy: Be careful with this overall connection. The first picture is that of a single flare that can very easily crack if overtightened, they are not often used especially for fuel. Every single connection is a possible souce for a leak. The image in post 11 above has at least 5 connections possibly 6. Near the brake rotors is NOT where you want any sort of a potential leak. You might want to consider a hard line with a double flare from the adapter coming out of the tank into a bent and shaped tube secured with adel clamps to the frame, leading to the point where the single flare is. Cut it out (the flare) and use a piece of reinforced fuel injection hose secured with two normal hose clamp to provide an area for flex (mimimal) and vibration. You'll save some weight and have a safer delivery tube. JMO

[vector1]

and that last pic, with the hard line close to the frame, i would put some rubber tube around the hard line to keep the two from bumping, rubbing or wearing. unless there is no movement or you feel comfortable with it.

[LodiWino]

Lippy;

Get a copy of the XRP fitting catalogue. There are diagrams of various type of fittings: Inverted flair fittings, AN fittings, NPT thread fittings, Hose sizes and types, etc. Very helpful.

Call XRP at 562-861-4765.

[lippy]

All good comments. I will add some rubber at any point near the frame - I already did this between the tank and fuel filter.

On Rick's point that there already are a lot of connections and I should be careful near the brakes - yes, I agree. This is why I located the filter in-line instead of behind the rear driver's side wheel, as many guys do.

So what I have is shown in post #11, and it is: Tank out (-10 AN male) > -10 AN female/-8 AN male adapter > -8 AN female to -8 AN female 90 deg adapter > filter assembly (filter plus a NPT O-ring to AN fitting on either end) > -8 AN female to -8 AN female PTFE hose > coupler > hard line. I drew out several alternatives, and this appeared to be the strongest and simplest arrangement. So many of the hose ends that I would've wanted (e.g., NPT male with an O-ring, -8 AN male) were not available with a single hose/fitting manufacturer, and in the right finish, that this was the best I could think of. If it leaks beyond snugging the joints, then I'll consider other options. Any other suggestions on the best way to get from the tank (-10 AN male) to the hard line (- 8 AN female) with an in-line filter would be appreciated.