Engine install in ERA

[cscobra]

Thank you for finding my post, Dan.

The reason that it so much easier with the new design is that the footboxes no longer have fiberglass "extensions" running over the center of the interior above the transmission tunnel. A separate aluminum piece "over the top" now ties everything together, but this must NOT be installed if you want to have an easy time with the installation. (Of course, you can always install the engine before the footboxes before the body, etc.--ERA did it this way at least once per their website!).

Having the radiator (and fan!) installed before the engine is not a problem, and definitely install the starter (much easier to do before the engine goes in). The water pump (without pulley) and the expansion tank also install easily ahead of time and will not be in the way. I considered adding the alternator and the fuel pump, but these are easy to install afterwards and the extra room left a nice margin for error.

I used only a lifting plate (and the middle hole, at that--first attempt using front hole resulted in WAY too much angle). I did not need a tilt adjuster because I had two experienced helpers, but such a device could be very useful if you are solo. I also had the front of the car elevated just a bit with jackstands.

It is so much easier to install the clutch, the bellhousing, and the transmission (without external linkage, if your transmission requires it) out in the open where adjustments are easy--you're going to bolt everything together on a trial basis anyway, aren't you? It was just so straightforward to do it this way that I highly recommend at least trying it. Keep in mind, though, that not every combination may work as well as the basic combo that ERA engineered the car to use (cast-iron FE block, Lakewood 15210 bellhousing, and cast-iron Ford toploader) and which I chose to install.

Good luck with your build--you will love it when you're done!

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by LodiWino

Kevin;

Leave the alternator off. Radiator out. Everything else should be OK. Call me if you have any questions. C = 925-525-4700

Thanks, my radiator is already in. CSCobra indicates that isn't a problem. I will obviously test fit everything before installing so will give it a try. I do have a 2 ton hoist so it will hopefully extend enough without getting tippy.

Thanks,

Kevin

[lippy]

Since it seems to be consensus that the 2-ton unit is easier, I was going to rent one. But I found it on HF and applied an additional 25% coupon (code: 53292839 if you need it) so it is only $150. No brainer. I also ordered their 2-ton load leveler.

[kevins2]

Lippy,

I had a nice conversation with LodiWino and plan to try the install with the tranny assembled. Doug at ERA was concerned that the hoist would be tippy extended out that far (and, yes, you'll need the 2 ton hoist). LodiWino confirmed that is true and he put about 50 lbs. of weights on the back of the hoist and said that firmed it up nicely.

Regards,

Kevin

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by kevins2

Lippy,

I had a nice conversation with LodiWino and plan to try the install with the tranny assembled. Doug at ERA was concerned that the hoist would be tippy extended out that far (and, yes, you'll need the 2 ton hoist). LodiWino confirmed that is true and he put about 50 lbs. of weights on the back of the hoist and said that firmed it up nicely.

Regards,

Kevin

That counterbalance might be a good idea. It looks like I had the 2-ton hoist I used extended out to the 1-ton position and I don't think I could have shortened the arm any further. The extra 120 - 150 lbs of transmission and bellhousing will make some difference.





Dan