Trouble with knock off spinners

[cdog]

You don't need the tool in my experience.

Try this:

1) jack up the car
2) hit a spinner ear with a lead hammer in the 'loosen' direction with a mild amount of force
3) turn the wheel
4) hit the next spinner ear
5) repeat 3 & 4

It may look like you aren't getting anywhere, but in a minute or two it will loosen. Spin-tink-spin-tink-spin-tink. Just keep at it, and boom it's off.

You don't need to hit them hard, pretty much the weight of the hammer is what does it. I don't think this is possible to do WITHOUT a lead hammer; make sure you have one.

[JWilly]

What CDOG suggests worked well for me.

[WardL]

I used a 2 ft long 2x4 as an extension to allow better swing path with the lead hammer. The 2x4s split pretty quickly but I was able to get the spinners off. The right rear wheel should be the worst and the front wheels the easiest. Sure was a good feeling when the spinner finally came free. CDOG's approach sounds better.

[mike harter]

cdog's way is the way I do it and it works every time

[CobraDan]

Widows Son has the exact tool I was looking for & even it is expensive at $260 but ask him how the tool works especially if he has first tried with a lead hammer. I have seen the ears broken off the spinners with the lead hammer blows and when all the ears are broken off you have to hack saw what’s left off, that’s really fun.

[strictlypersonl]

This design is modified from a wing-nut tool that I've seen. (Origin unknown) It's made from 1/2" nylon plate (with some optional aluminum retainers). I've made it pretty universal, so that you can bolt a big bar to it or have a central nut for use with an impact wrench.

I priced it (nylon plate only) out at emachineshop: $70@5 pieces, $45@20 pieces. If someone wants to take on the project (maybe with their own laser/waterjet), I will supply the file for free. If I have to get involved, the price will get a lot higher.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

This design is modified from a wing-nut tool that I've seen. (Origin unknown) It's made from 1/2" nylon plate (with some optional aluminum retainers). I've made it pretty universal, so that you can bolt a big bar to it or have a central nut for use with an impact wrench.

I priced it (nylon plate only) out at emachineshop: $70@5 pieces, $45@20 pieces. If someone wants to take on the project (maybe with their own laser/waterjet), I will supply the file for free. If I have to get involved, the price will get a lot higher.

Bob - how would the aluminum retainers work? It looks like they would have to be attached after the tool was fitted over the spinner.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by CobraDan

Widows Son has the exact tool I was looking for & even it is expensive at $260 but ask him how the tool works especially if he has first tried with a lead hammer. I have seen the ears broken off the spinners with the lead hammer blows and when all the ears are broken off you have to hack saw what’s left off, that’s really fun.

There is a badly beaten one sitting on my desk right now that makes a great paperweight and reminder. Antiseize!!!

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Bob - how would the aluminum retainers work? It looks like they would have to be attached after the tool was fitted over the spinner.

I would double-bolt one of the retainers and use a single bolt on the others so that they could swing away easily. If the aluminum was threaded, it would be easy to hand-thread a bolt into it to complete the attachment. There isn't much stress on the aluminum, so it's not critical.

[JLip]

Originally Posted by Grubby

I wouldn't get the weight off the wheels to hit them. You are then pounding the bearings.

John

Don't take all the weight off the wheels. Just allow them to touch the pavement.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

I would double-bolt one of the retainers and use a single bolt on the others so that they could swing away easily. If the aluminum was threaded, it would be easy to hand-thread a bolt into it to complete the attachment. There isn't much stress on the aluminum, so it's not critical.

Got it.

Thanks

[Widows Son]

Originally Posted by Bernica

There is a badly beaten one sitting on my desk right now that makes a great paperweight and reminder. Antiseize!!!

Well, I have had my wheels off and on more times than I would have liked in the poast 3 weeks (new shocks and Wildwood brake kits all the way around -will post full write-ups later). In regards to my knockoff tool I posted about earlier on this thread: worthless! Well, that's probably too harsh a description. The reality is I used my trusty 6lb lead hammer with no issues. I have gotten so used to taking the rims off and on, that its become fairly simple process. I will say the rear right wheel is always the toughest as someone noted earlier. I will keep the tool for a just-in-case scenario...God willing, I hope that day never comes. The other good news is I have become an expert on the wire protecting and wire spinners - easy, and fast and looks like a piece of art. So its true that practice makes perfect.

[DanEC]

I think the main shortcoming with most of these socket-type knockoff tools designed for use with a breakover bar, is achieving anywhere near enough torque on the spinner. Some of the older Chevrolet design/production guys over on the Corvette Forum who are familiar with the Corvette knock off wheels, have said that the targeted torque value on the spinner is in the area of 450 ft-lbs. Practically speaking - no one is going to reach that value with a 1/2 inch breakover bar except maybe for a gorilla - and then I'm not sure the typical 1/2 break over bar will take that much stress. It would take a long 3/4 inch or 1 inch breakover bar to get close.

[CobraDan]

427 Shelby 5 lug wheels including spinners






retained by spinner kit (sold separately) hides lugs giving bolt on wheels "the pin drive look" comes in polished stainless steel or powder coated gray

[Widows Son]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I think the main shortcoming with most of these socket-type knockoff tools designed for use with a breakover bar, is achieving anywhere near enough torque on the spinner. Some of the older Chevrolet design/production guys over on the Corvette Forum who are familiar with the Corvette knock off wheels, have said that the targeted torque value on the spinner is in the area of 450 ft-lbs. Practically speaking - no one is going to reach that value with a 1/2 inch breakover bar except maybe for a gorilla - and then I'm not sure the typical 1/2 break over bar will take that much stress. It would take a long 3/4 inch or 1 inch breakover bar to get close.

Well said...therein lies the basis of why impact drivers work so well...its not speed but torque and impact. The lead hammer is the original impact driver...not quick, but each wack provides a heck of a lot of torque.

That said, the drawback is that each of the lead impact driver's wack does not simultaneously and uniformly distributed across the spinner but only on one ear at a time for each hit. The "good" thing about the spinner tools is that it allows for uniform distribution across all ears but has no means to apply torque...unless used with just brute force on a long break bar and pipe combination to provide said torque.

A smart engineer would try to design something the combines the both at low cost: similar to I think NASCAR and F1 where they use a massive impact driver and cobalt hardened single socket to remove the one wheel nut. The problem is that most normal folks don't have access to sophisticated tools and cash. So, I will stick to the manual lead impact driver.

[cdog]

Originally Posted by CobraDan

I have seen the ears broken off the spinners with the lead hammer blows and when all the ears are broken off you have to hack saw what’s left off, that’s really fun.

The ears break off when people repeatedly bang on ONE ear. If you use the cdog tap-spin-tap-spin method, that shouldn't happen.

And all weight should be off the wheel. If you have resistance on the wheel, you risk breaking an ear. Having the wheel turn a bit while being hit keeps the stress off the ears but still loosens the spinner.

[Voyager]

Not to muddy the water….

I remove the wheels fairly often on my Cobra. I have pretty much “mangled/consumed” my lead hammer over the past 2 years. My concern is what danger does the lead "shrapnel" pose to me, my kids, pets, etc?

I wouldn’t mind a socket-type knockoff tool that incorporates your jack stand handle as a breaker bar.

Bob

[rpatton3]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

Down on the front side or back side of the wheel?

That said, you likely are the victim of wheels that have never been off by the previous owner. If you are certain you are striking the correct direction than try heat. Heat the ring of the knock off, just keep moving the torch around and get it warm, then hammer time. Not heating to the glowing stage.

MANY years ago, my sister's 1969 E-Type would not let go of knock off. They were labelled on and off and left and right. We called them 'dog killers' and just two ears. V-12 cars had giant nut and brass wrench for lead hammer.

I used a six foot steel pipe and put it on knock off. She put car in reverse and I had pipe on driveway. After a huge groan, everything broke loose with no damage. I was 19 and my sister was 17. My dad was shocked after we told him what we did. NEVER, EVER TRY THIS AT HOME.

We were very lucky nobody, including car, was hurt

[rpatton3]

Originally Posted by Voyager

Not to muddy the water….

I remove the wheels fairly often on my Cobra. I have pretty much “mangled/consumed” my lead hammer over the past 2 years. My concern is what danger does the lead "shrapnel" pose to me, my kids, pets, etc?

I wouldn’t mind a socket-type knockoff tool that incorporates your jack stand handle as a breaker bar.

Bob

One of the six pound hammer sellers tell you how to resurface face of hammer
Mother Thumper, maybe..Cobra Valley's Muther Thumper Lead Hammer Spinner Removal Tool

[Voyager]

Rpatton3,

My concern is not with the hammer, but lead poisoning.

Bob