Dieseling/fast idle solenoid

[lippy]

Originally Posted by blykins

I'd have to see the plugs but a hotter plug has more porcelain exposed which is a hot spot for fuel to hit.

You can try a 3910 plug and I'd like to see how much transfer slot you have exposed at 1200 rpm.

No problem for me to try AR 3910 plugs. I've been told to use the factory gap for AR plugs, do you agree?

For the transfer slot, I just pulled the carb off again and was planning on setting it square and getting the faster idle using the solenoid. This way, when the solenoid is disengaged I will go back to a square transfer slot setting (I think the idle is fairly low there). In the past, I started with square transfer slots and then changed the primary and secondary butterfly positions equally to get the desired idle speed, letting the transfer slots fall where they do. Should I be setting this differently?

Separately, thanks for the tip Chas. I'm going to try the colder plugs but if I still get run on I'll try it.

[blykins]

I'd set them to .038-.040". They vary out of the box.

Transfer slots need to be close to square. If not, the carb will get into the transition circuit. If you need to, try closing the primaries to square and opening the secondary slightly.

Pat, there's a big difference between a 445 inch motor with 245 deg duration and a 427 with that much.

[DanEC]

Like shifting into first or second before going to reverse to avoid grinding, it takes a little while to develop a routine, but the practice of slowly engagiing the clutch to bring the engine speed down and then turn off the key is by far the cheap and effective solution and causes no harm.

I installed an idle solenoid on my GTX to boost idle speed when the AC is on and it also is effective - but it will cost about $150 by the time you get a solenoid and bracket for a Holley. It will also probably negate using a Turkey Pan around your carburetor if you were planning on one. Or, at least you will have a big hole in it.