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12Likes

12-20-2015, 09:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jonesboro GA,
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55
Why are you concerned about 210°F? That's well within normal range and far from overheating or boiling over - unless you're running straight water with no pressure cap.
As others have pointed out, the 160°F thermostat is too low, and a 180° or 190° would be much better. As you have noted, it made no difference on your temperatures.
Check out the tech tips on pages 21-23 of this: https://stewartcomponents.com/wp/wp-...rt_catalog.pdf
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Interesting article. I haven't head of the water pressure overcoming the radiator cap at high rpm but the possibility seems logical. If I end up with that issue I'll switch to a very high pressure cap at the tstat and go with a surge tank. They basically say the same thing I was in regards to coolant flow through the heat exchange and the need for a stable air pocket for air removal.
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12-20-2015, 09:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 3,077
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easy way to get the air out of the system when filling is leave the temperature sending unit loose in the intake manifold when filling. it is a high spot. just be sure to tighten when it starts to drip out or water will be everywhere.
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12-20-2015, 11:16 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhunt
50/50 water glycol with 2 cans of H2O Wetter. Ambient temps now 65 deg F in TX, water temp hits 210 deg F & oil temps hits 215-200 deg. Laser shot of radiator show about 180 deg F. All air burped out of system.
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You running mechanical or electric gauges? Mechanical senders can get finicky. Oil temps in general should run approx. 20* hotter. Two bottles of WaterWetter is probably 1.5 too much. Have had great success with WW...good product. If you are using a surge tank you should only fill it half way, otherwise you don't give air pockets anywhere to go. As for thermostats, if they were not necessary than every OEM would have ditched them decades ago and saved boxcar loads of money. Water pumps shouldn't have to be overdriven to work properly. Make sure the puller fan is properly sized and shrouded. My two cents.
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12-20-2015, 11:55 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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You might want to research boundry layer theory in fluid dynamics or the next time you are going down the freeway put down your window and lay your hand on the roof. You will notice no air movement across you hand when laid on the roof at 60mph, It is not until you move your hand away about 1/2 inch. Same in your engine without thermostat, in some instances the flow rate from the water pump can be high enough you get stagnant water next to the engine block. Water to water heat transfer is not as efficient as block to water
transfer rate.
thermostat open at their stated temperature but do not FULLY close until about 10 degrees below there set point.
160F thermostat equals cold cylinder walls and hot pistons which equal excessive wear.
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12-20-2015, 01:50 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jonesboro GA,
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx
You might want to research boundry layer theory...
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Thanks for the laugh. Not being disparaging, that statement actually gave me a good laugh.
Do a Delaware search for Boundary Layer LLC. Give you one guess who in this thread owns it.
I'll let the arguing go with that.
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12-20-2015, 03:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
Posts: 2,617
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Ok, I just took a ride in my car and placed my hand on the roof while cruising.
I felt the wind. Now what?
__________________
Jim
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12-20-2015, 03:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jonesboro GA,
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
Ok, I just took a ride in my car and placed my hand on the roof while cruising.
I felt the wind. Now what?
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No you didn't 
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12-22-2015, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Must have been a cross wind, shoot your car is frictionless, you don't need fuel, sell the technology.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
Ok, I just took a ride in my car and placed my hand on the roof while cruising.
I felt the wind. Now what?
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12-22-2015, 07:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx
Must have been a cross wind, shoot your car is frictionless, you don't need fuel, sell the technology.
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OK but I found that post to be a bit disturbing. 
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12-22-2015, 03:51 PM
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Help me out, I googled and it described exactly what I was saying. What is a deleware search?
QUOTE=mikeinatlanta;1375440]Thanks for the laugh. Not being disparaging, that statement actually gave me a good laugh.
Do a Delaware search for Boundary Layer LLC. Give you one guess who in this thread owns it.
I'll let the arguing go with that.[/quote]
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12-22-2015, 03:59 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx
Help me out, I googled and it described exactly what I was saying. What is a deleware search?
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Delaware is a little friendlier on some corporate and limited liability company issues, so you set your company up under that state's laws to make your life a little easier. I take it he did that and named his company "Boundary Layer." Unless that would be on a big chocolate cake, I don't know what a boundary layer is. 
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12-22-2015, 04:24 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jonesboro GA,
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Delaware is a little friendlier on some corporate and limited liability company issues, so you set your company up under that state's laws to make your life a little easier. I take it he did that and named his company "Boundary Layer." Unless that would be on a big chocolate cake, I don't know what a boundary layer is. 
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Zactly.  Was in GA under Boundary Layer Products, but shortened for DE. Not important that people know what a boundary layer is, however, probably a good idea that the owner of a company named such does.
Last edited by mikeinatlanta; 12-22-2015 at 04:28 PM..
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12-20-2015, 04:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portland,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA, 1964 289->Webers
Posts: 3,689
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Every time I've had an over heating issue, I've over thought it. Go with the proper thermostat.
Make sure it is a quality unit.
Make sure your water pump is turning the proper direction (easy to have the wrong one with small fords).
Put your number one piston at tdc & check the mark on your harmonic balancer
Make sure your radiator is free flowing & the proper size.
Make sure your radiator fan is turning properly
A new engine can run a little warm. i would be nervous if mine sat at 210 but, you should see it go down when the thermostat opens, right? A big enough radiator, full of coolant will cool off when the thermostat opens. If you're running a 160Deg, you aren't giving that radiator much time to cool that liquid. You'll likely get it up to temp & the thermostat will not be able to close the system again.
__________________
ERA FIA 2088
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12-20-2015, 04:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
Posts: 2,617
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You've got an air pocket. Trust me!
__________________
Jim
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12-21-2015, 06:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Clovis,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Kellison West Coast
Posts: 57
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I have done all of this. Different stats, no stat, OD pulley....I have done it all. Here is your first clue. The Rad is 30 degrees cooler than the engine using your infrared. This eliminated bad senders, etc.. Why is it cooler? You are not moving enough water. Why? you may have to overdrive the WP so it cools at idle (you have that), you have an air pocket or you have a partially plugged Rad or collapsed hose. What else can it be. The T-stat discussion is nice but it is not the reason for a 30 degree difference. Start easy, check hoses, get ALL the air out and if it continues you may need to pull the rad and flush it. Someone may have shoved sealant in the block after the build and you pushed it all into the Rad if you did not do a long and proper block flush before first fire. Regarding the T-stat I found my best was 180. 160 is too cold if the system works properly. 190 was a little on the high side for me. Once you get the water flow correct you can play with the T-stats. Until then you need to flow more water from the Rad to the block. My guess is air. You need a t-stat, it allows the water to flow properly in a street car and keeps consistent temps. Wha are your temps at ram air on the highway?
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12-21-2015, 06:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sour Lake,
Tx
Cobra Make, Engine: CMC #437, 408ci
Posts: 110
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I tried a flowkooler water pump on a sbc in a rod of mine and it helped quite a bit.
__________________
Scott
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12-21-2015, 06:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sacramento,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, 427SO
Posts: 389
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I didn't notice if someone else has already mentioned it or not, but make sure your fan rotation is correct for pulling air through the radiator.
Ted
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12-21-2015, 08:36 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florence,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT 40 & 1966 Fairlane 390 5 speed
Posts: 4,511
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__________________
''Life's tough.....it's even tougher if you're stupid.'' ~ John Wayne
"Happiness Is A Belt-Fed Weapon"
life's goal should be; "to be smarter than inanimate objects"
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12-22-2015, 11:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corona del Mar,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR MKIII, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam
Posts: 170
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This might not be it but 10 quarts is a lot of oil. Is it possible you over filled the motor? When I had my oil changed for the first time they added too much oil and the motor immediately ran very hot. I drained the excess oil and the problem went away.

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12-22-2015, 07:23 PM
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CC Member
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Well I don't smoke, already exercise, "make" adequate $$, guess my New Years resolution will be to improve my gramaticall aptitude. Trust me when I say grades 1st through 5th are the most important.
Thanks for the politically correct "learn how to spell dumbass"
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