427 FE Block Question

[Richard Cowart]

I just purchased a new, high performance 427 FE top oiler from a very reputable engine builder. What got my attention was that engine was built from a NOS block that had been sitting in their shop for (obviously) quite a while. The price was good and the builder builds some of the best but the thing that got my attention was the NOS block. So, I bought it and it is now in transit. In speaking with the builder I asked about the casting date and they indicated that there is no (apparent) casting date on the block. I contacted Ford Performance and they said that there should be. Anyone out there have any ideas as to why there would not be a casting date on this block?

[patrickt]

There have been reports of NOS service blocks with no casting dates by the oil filter adapter, like this thread: 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: 427 cross bolt main spacers -- I have never seen one with my own eyes, but I have seen a good number of "goofy, and I didn't know those even existed" blocks that it wouldn't surprise me in the least.

[Bernica]

Does the block have ribs on the sides? And is the crank cross-bolted?
Pics would help...

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Does the block have ribs on the sides? And is the crank cross-bolted?
Pics would help...

I don't know as the engine is in transit at this time. It should arrive next week.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Does the block have ribs on the side?

No, it was ordered with fries and cole slaw.

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by patrickt

There have been reports of NOS service blocks with no casting dates by the oil filter adapter, like this thread: 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum: 427 cross bolt main spacers -- I have never seen one with my own eyes, but I have seen a good number of "goofy, and I didn't know those even existed" blocks that it wouldn't surprise me in the least.

From what I understand, the casting month and year should be next to the oil adapter. If there is no casting number the block is said to be a service block. What is a service block?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Richard Cowart

From what I understand, the casting month and year should be next to the oil adapter. If there is no casting number the block is said to be a service block. What is a service block?

A service block is a NOS block that did not originally go in to a car from the factory but rather was available for purchase at the parts counter or made available to the dealer for warranty work.

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by patrickt

A service block is a NOS block that did not originally go in to a car from the factory but rather was available for purchase at the parts counter or made available to the dealer for warranty work.

Interesting. Even so, I wonder the rationale of not giving the casting date.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Richard Cowart

Interesting. Even so, I wonder the rationale of not giving the casting date.

There was no rationale for not doing things, that sometimes were done. It just wasn't done sometimes when it should have been done. Imagine if you were in charge of setting the little imprint makers in the sand at the Dearborn Iron Foundry and you did it, what, a hundred times a day, every day for 50 years? You don't think you'd miss one every now and then? Especially after a long lunch at The Lamplighter Bar 'n Grill? It just happens.

[Bernica]

What Patrick said is correct. An over-the-counter replacement. I have seen some with castings such as C3AE-x or C4AE-x or C5AE-x, where the "x" is the variable.
Those were the "center-oilers" or "top-oilers" according to my info.

[Bernica]

I should clarify that the "x" variable I mentioned above also applied to other blocks. I was just pointing out what to look for.

[Richard Cowart]

This all sounds like a block that has an imperfection in one of the casting numbers. The block is good, it just cannot go into a Ford car at the assembly line. But, the block is perfectly good so off to an auto parts house, engine builder, etc. Thanks to all.

[Bernica]

Even though they were NOS blocks, many were rough and needed cleaning up and even some machining to correct bores, bearing alignment etc. I'm hoping your builder knew about this and completely checked it out before the build.

[patrickt]

Yep, I know it's hard to believe, but there was very little rhyme or reason to casting numbers because there were exceptions to every rule. You simply can not make a blanket statement about casting numbers other than that you can not rely on casting numbers. But if it's an unmolested 427 block, even in "rough" form, it's a very nice find.

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Even though they were NOS blocks, many were rough and needed cleaning up and even some machining to correct bores, bearing alignment etc. I'm hoping your builder knew about this and completely checked it out before the build.

My understanding is that he is very reputable and one of the best. They put all of the right parts in the engine. Dynos at 585 hp and around 591 ft lb. torque. Comes with a 2 year warrantee.

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yep, I know it's hard to believe, but there was very little rhyme or reason to casting numbers because there were exceptions to every rule. You simply can not make a blanket statement about casting numbers other than that you can not rely on casting numbers. But if it's an unmolested 427 block, even in "rough" form, it's a very nice find.

It was described to me as brand new, sitting in the shop for a very long time.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Richard Cowart

My understanding is that he is very reputable and one of the best. They put all of the right parts in the engine. Dynos at 585 hp and around 591 ft lb. torque. Comes with a 2 year warrantee.

If it doesn't come apart in the first six months then it will likely outlive both you and your heirs.

[Bernica]

Pretty stout numbers! Break-in period is extremely important. Even more so if you went Patrick's direction and put in solid lifters!

[Richard Cowart]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Pretty stout numbers! Break-in period is extremely important. Even more so if you went Patrick's direction and put in solid lifters!

I asked about break-in and they said the engine is considered broken in. Did not ask about lifters. Forged stroker crank, forged 10:1 pistons, Edelbrock heads and intake manifold, some sort of hybrid Holly carb, MSD ignition, 7 qt pan with baffles - lots of good stuff. They require Joe Gibbs racing oil to be used or the warrantee is voided. So, I bought a case and they put the oil in the crate. I appreciated that. And, I got to pick my valve covers - Cobra Le Mans in black.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Richard Cowart

I asked about break-in and they said the engine is considered broken in. Did not ask about lifters. Forged stroker crank, forged 10:1 pistons, Edelbrock heads and intake manifold, some sort of hybrid Holly carb, MSD ignition, 7 qt pan with baffles - lots of good stuff. They require Joe Gibbs racing oil to be used or the warrantee is voided. So, I bought a case and they put the oil in the crate. I appreciated that. And, I got to pick my valve covers - Cobra Le Mans in black.

If they didn't give you lash numbers, then it's almost certainly hydraulic. And it's getting to the point now where you have to beg on your knees to get a builder to put a solid flat tappet cam in anymore. But a quick email to the builder just confirming that it is indeed a hydraulic cam build would be in order.