427 FE Block Question

Ron61 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 07:12 AM

From a few years back, mine was ran on a dyno a few times and everything checked and then I had to have a break in period of around 500 miles. I did change the oil at the 100 and 250 mile marks and everything was good.

Ron

olddog · #2 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 08:16 AM

There were center oiler 427 FE juice cam blocks that can run hydraulic lifters. I know for certain that some service blocks were this way. I'm not so sure if any factory blocks were. So, this could be a hydraulic lifter engine.

I would not assume every part of an engine is completely broken in, just because it was ran on a dyno.

As for start up instructions, over the years I have read many a thread where remote oil filters and oil coolers were plumbed up wrong. If I recall correctly, some of those incidents ruined the engine. Many other threads, on less than adequate cooling, are on this site. I would certainly have instructions, if I was standing behind an engine. Even if the purchaser was a total idiot and ruined a $10K+ engine you built, everyone is unhappy, and it could reflect negatively on the builder. Yep I would have a long set of instructions, that on the one hand an attorney agreed protected me, and on the other hand protected the motor and the customer, if followed correctly.

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 08:43 AM

I'm betting this engine has never been fired. And if that's true, then he's not going to find a lick of carbon in that head. If I were an engine builder, I wouldn't sell an engine that I had completely built, but not broken in. That's just asking for trouble. The next thread we get will be "the rings won't seat, I've got no compression, the lobes are making a funny whacking noise, and there's shiny stuff in the oil."

Bernica · #4 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 11:32 AM

If the engine is still sitting on a pallet take a few pics of sides, front and rear. Pay attention to the cam plug location at the rear of the motor. It will tell if you have a solid or juice cam. But either way, comments above regarding break-in should be heeded. Even more so if you are running a solid flat tappet. Seen and heard of several folks that have "wiped" their cam in the first few miles because they didn't use proper break-in oil or started right away with synthetic.
All IMHO...

lippy · #5 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I'm betting this engine has never been fired. And if that's true, then he's not going to find a lick of carbon in that head. If I were an engine builder, I wouldn't sell an engine that I had completely built, but not broken in. That's just asking for trouble. The next thread we get will be "the rings won't seat, I've got no compression, the lobes are making a funny whacking noise, and there's shiny stuff in the oil."

I'm pretty sure Keith and almost every other builder dynos their built engines. Each one. He's a reputable guy so I find it difficult to think he didn't.

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

I'm pretty sure Keith and almost every other builder dynos their built engines. Each one. He's a reputable guy so I find it difficult to think he didn't.

Except... he sold the business and has nothing to do with it anymore.

And, he was ready to throw in the towel on the engine biz for quite some time now. It's pretty easy to tell if an engine has ever run though, so I'll just wait for the OP to post and STFU in the meantime....

DAVID GAGNARD · #7 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I'm betting this engine has never been fired. And if that's true, then he's not going to find a lick of carbon in that head. If I were an engine builder, I wouldn't sell an engine that I had completely built, but not broken in. That's just asking for trouble. The next thread we get will be "the rings won't seat, I've got no compression, the lobes are making a funny whacking noise, and there's shiny stuff in the oil."

To even insinuate this with only knowing the few details posted shows your character or rather lack of character..........
If the shop said the engine was dynoed and sent a printout with it,at least give them the benefit of the doubt unless you can prove otherwise...........

Maybe you just don't like KC or their engines??????????? if that's the case,then say so,rather than try to insinuate something you know nothing about and can't prove from your keyboard..........

And people wonder why Keith sold his business?????????????????????

Grubby · #8 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 05:21 PM

Richard,

That sounds like a really good streetable engine. Lots of power, but not too much. It should look good and run great in a Kirkham.

John

Dimis · #9 (**permalink**) 02-07-2016, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby

Richard,

That sounds like a really good streetable engine. Lots of power, but not too much. It should look good and run great in a Kirkham.

John

Agreed - from my research, your CAM spec and parts list suggest a solid streetable engine with plenty of power.

Thanks for sharing & enjoy your cobra build!

Richard Cowart · #10 (**permalink**) 02-08-2016, 09:04 AM

Over the weekend I saw that Keith Craft advertises on Club Cobra. I was cruising around on their website last night and I think that my engine is the same one built with an aluminum block, the Pond 482/496 FE Street Crate, except built with the NOS iron block. And, it is only 80 lbs heavier than an all aluminum engine.

All of my contact with KC were with Lance and Tony. Both were great guys to work with.