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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2016, 12:14 PM
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Default Header/Side-pipes fitting

I greatly appreciate any advice on installing my exhaust system
1- Are the fenders supposed to be notched at the bottom or are holes cut in for pipes?
2- How much clearance is needed between fender and pipes?
3- Pipes are flange fit, headers are slip-fit. Do slip-fit tend to leak more which is better?
4- Should I rubber mount pipes for vibration?
Thanks guys for your help with this.

Last edited by leon; 02-07-2016 at 06:13 AM.. Reason: Trying to add more facts
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:59 AM
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Good questions
1- Are the fenders supposed to be notched at the bottom or are holes cut in for pipes?
Originals used a hole through the body as they have a 3/4" tube wrapped in sheetmetal.
2- How much clearance is needed between fender and pipes?
I run about an inch to allow for movement on motor mounts
3- Pipes are flange fit, headers are slip-fit. Do slip-fit tend to leak more which is better?
Leaking isn't better but a good slip fit with some manifold seal goop works well.
4- Should I rubber mount pipes for vibration?
Definitely have some kind of rubber isolators, at the very least a pivot, or it can shake the car apart.
If you need any pictures or ideas let us know.
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Old 02-07-2016, 07:43 AM
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Mickmate covered it all very well but if you have a fiberglass body there is one thing that you may want to consider. At the track I saw several cars that the heat from the exhaust caused the glass to start to delaminate or split apart around the cut out. I had used some high temp heat reflector stuff around the edge of my cut outs and never had that problem. I only saw it on cars at the track, so it may not be a problem on cars that aren't driven hard and for long periods as they have a chance to cool off.

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Old 02-07-2016, 07:50 AM
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If the slip fit is too tight because of ceramic or other coating, lightly take some material off the inside of the header collectors with emery.
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:13 AM
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"4- Should I rubber mount pipes for vibration?"

There are a lot of ways sidepipes are attached to replicas. A friend of mine had one of his rear hanger brackets break from metal fatigue. Even though it was a thick metal bar, it eventually fatigued. For that reason, I think an "L" shaped rear hanger bracket is stronger and rubber mounting is best. Below are a couple photos of how ERA mounts sidepipes. The first is their hanger bracket, which is securely welded to the pipe. The hole at the other end is bolted to two thick, reinforced rubber hangers that are bolted to the chassis (2nd photo below). You can't see it in the photo below, but the tops of the rubber hangers are angle cut to fit flush against the floor of the car to prevent them from rotating.



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Old 02-07-2016, 01:59 PM
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That's the brackets they used on originals. They spread the load out pretty well around the end and have the angle profile for strength. We set them up so they can twist but not hang. There is a picture of them here Side Pipe Hanger Brackets Side Pipe Hanger Brackets [] - $82.00 : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras
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