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2Likes

02-16-2016, 10:48 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55
The fact it's going soft says to me there's air in those lines. I went with 'speed bleeders' when I did my brake conversion (Wilwood 4 piston front, GM rear) and I'm convinced they're the way to go. Bleeding is never a 'fun' task, but using them took the real hassle out of doing it so much I'm also planning to install them on our daily drivers.
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Yep, I do have a power bleeder, I will pull it out this weekend and bleed all four corners,
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02-16-2016, 11:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by pormgb
Yep, I do have a power bleeder, I will pull it out this weekend and bleed all four corners,
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He's referring to the auto-valve bleeder screws. They have a one way valve in them to prevent air from getting back in the calipers. To use them you loosen them slightly, hook up a bleed hose to a can and then start pumping the brake pedal. When the pedal is pushed it forces fluid past the relief valve and as soon as the pedal is released the valve shuts - so you can pump all you want as long as fluid is in the reservoir of the MC. You don't need pressure or vacuum bleeder pumps.
They are how I finally got my ERA bleed out. But I thought back in the early part of your thread that you had these on your calipers ???
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02-16-2016, 12:24 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City,
SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
Posts: 2,916
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
He's referring to the auto-valve bleeder screws. They have a one way valve in them to prevent air from getting back in the calipers. To use them you loosen them slightly, hook up a bleed hose to a can and then start pumping the brake pedal. When the pedal is pushed it forces fluid past the relief valve and as soon as the pedal is released the valve shuts - so you can pump all you want as long as fluid is in the reservoir of the MC. You don't need pressure or vacuum bleeder pumps.
They are how I finally got my ERA bleed out. But I thought back in the early part of your thread that you had these on your calipers ???
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Yes - you can see the Russell ones here: Aftermarket Brake Kit Application Guide - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products
They're widely available in parts stores, speed shops, etc. and come in a variety of sizes to replace bleed screws in OEM and after-market calipers. For Wilwoods you only need a pair for each caliper to replace the upper bleed screws - you can leave the lower bleed screws in place as you'll never use them anyway.
BTW, my rear lines were pretty much completely dry when I bled them, and I was astounded how many pumps it took of the brake pedal before I got anything out. The key message is it may take a lot longer than you think before you get all the air out. Brake fluid is relatively cheap - don't be afraid to waste some, and always start with the wheel furthest from the MC and work closer as you go (RR, LR, RF, LF - for LH drive cars).
__________________
Brian
Last edited by cycleguy55; 02-16-2016 at 12:27 PM..
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02-16-2016, 07:10 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55
Yes - you can see the Russell ones here: Aftermarket Brake Kit Application Guide - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products
They're widely available in parts stores, speed shops, etc. and come in a variety of sizes to replace bleed screws in OEM and after-market calipers. For Wilwoods you only need a pair for each caliper to replace the upper bleed screws - you can leave the lower bleed screws in place as you'll never use them anyway.
BTW, my rear lines were pretty much completely dry when I bled them, and I was astounded how many pumps it took of the brake pedal before I got anything out. The key message is it may take a lot longer than you think before you get all the air out. Brake fluid is relatively cheap - don't be afraid to waste some, and always start with the wheel furthest from the MC and work closer as you go (RR, LR, RF, LF - for LH drive cars).
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I just finished using my pressure bleeder, still no luck.
I will revert back to my wife's assistance and see how that goes.
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02-16-2016, 07:08 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
He's referring to the auto-valve bleeder screws. They have a one way valve in them to prevent air from getting back in the calipers. To use them you loosen them slightly, hook up a bleed hose to a can and then start pumping the brake pedal. When the pedal is pushed it forces fluid past the relief valve and as soon as the pedal is released the valve shuts - so you can pump all you want as long as fluid is in the reservoir of the MC. You don't need pressure or vacuum bleeder pumps.
They are how I finally got my ERA bleed out. But I thought back in the early part of your thread that you had these on your calipers ???
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I have them on the rear calipers (GM Metric) and they are clean and work really well. The Sierra's have 1/8" bleeders, I could not find speed bleeders to fit the calipers. I take that back, I just found a 1/4-28 speed bleeder that fits in the 1/8" NPT housing.
Last edited by pormgb; 02-16-2016 at 07:18 PM..
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