White Sidepipes

[Bernica]

OK, I need some feedback. I am currently about to build a new set of side pipes for my CSX. I currently still have the chrome ones.
I really like the white pipes, but wonder about maintenance with white and what is the best coating if I go that way?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Michael

[joey4420]

I think you can get ceramic done it white, which would just be wipe it off easy.

[RestoCreations]

I have some special white high temp paint from KBS coatings(a full quart) that i bought for a 427 Kirkham, but never used because i ended up going with stainless pipes. I paid $68.00 plus shipping for it. Ill take $45.00 shipped. If interested, message me.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/high-te...re-paints.html

[Large Arbor]

I would definitely go the ceramic coat route. I have to do a lot of work to keep mine clean. I used the VHT Flat White and it is difficult to keep it bonded on the pipes as they get close to the header. I am painting mine every couple of months.

Phil

[TimG427]

I never had a problem with my 3002 replica, it was hi-temp white paint. It needed a touch up every six months or so.

[Bernica]

Thanks guys! Just the kind of feedback I was looking for. Now I just need to decide.

[RodKnock]

White pipes would look great on your car. And I would definitely have them high-temp coated by someone like Jet-Hot.

rodneym has made so many changes to his Cobra over the years and has had more than one Cobra, he may know the best coater in today's world. He's also a client of Mike McCluskey's too.

[rodneym]

Bernica,
Try Applied Applications in Vernon.
You'll be in good company

[Dave S]

I've had my car for almost four years and the builder had painted the pipes with flat white paint. Over that time, they had become a bit grungy from paint "erosion", but no peeling. I've refreshed them only a couple of times using flat white VHT paint in a rattle can (can't remember the brand) from an auto parts store.

I just mask off the body with newspapers taped to it and spray it on. I think the curing process was to spray it on, warm up the pipes some, let them cool, and then drive normally. It's simple, cheap (~$10 a can which is enough for 2-3 applications), and it works. I just can's see spending several hundred $ for ceramic coating.

[rms427]

I had my side pipes aluminized. It's sprayed as molten aluminum. It ends up very rough but snow white. I had them done originally in 1970 and I had them redone once. The reason I had them redone is someone melted a sneaker on one of them. I should have just touched it up with high temp white since they were still in great shape except for the melted rubber. The second time the job was not as good and some has peeled off. I now just touch those places up every know and then. So it's been 46 years and about 50,000 miles.

[Bernica]

Thanks RMS427! I'll take the car on the left please!

[66gtk]

After 2 failures with painting side pipes white, am at a total loss on what to do. On a car I'm working on the pipes were originally silver ceramic coated. After replacing the muffler section we decided it would look better white. The entire system was lightly media blasted to clean the areas very well. The VHT directions were followed perfectly and everything was done with white glove type accuracy (twice). 3 coats of VHT primer followed by 3 coats of VHT white following flash/recoat times, handling and cleaning procedures and wait times prior to curing on the car per directions and monitoring with infrared thermometer.

Both times, paint is holding and looking good - all except at the 4 into 1 collector area where it won't stay. Flaking and peeling off immediately after curing process. The rest of the pipes are perfect. This has become very time consuming and we consulted with a scientist over the phone with VHT and he confirms we are doing everything correctly. What gives? How are some of you able to keep this stuff on your collectors? The temp is MUCH MUCH lower than what the can states it is rated for, yet it won't hold up.

My only thought is that the ceramic coating has to be completely stripped for this to work? If so, why does it stick elsewhere where there was coating under the primer/paint. I figure a roughed up coating would be better than nothing, right?

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by 66gtk

After 2 failures with painting side pipes white, am at a total loss on what to do. On a car I'm working on the pipes were originally silver ceramic coated. After replacing the muffler section we decided it would look better white. The entire system was lightly media blasted to clean the areas very well. The VHT directions were followed perfectly and everything was done with white glove type accuracy (twice). 3 coats of VHT primer followed by 3 coats of VHT white following flash/recoat times, handling and cleaning procedures and wait times prior to curing on the car per directions and monitoring with infrared thermometer.

Both times, paint is holding and looking good - all except at the 4 into 1 collector area where it won't stay. Flaking and peeling off immediately after curing process. The rest of the pipes are perfect. This has become very time consuming and we consulted with a scientist over the phone with VHT and he confirms we are doing everything correctly. What gives? How are some of you able to keep this stuff on your collectors? The temp is MUCH MUCH lower than what the can states it is rated for, yet it won't hold up.

My only thought is that the ceramic coating has to be completely stripped for this to work? If so, why does it stick elsewhere where there was coating under the primer/paint. I figure a roughed up coating would be better than nothing, right?

I thought if I did it, I would go in full boat and have them dipped, etched and ceramic coated. Has anyone done that? The VHT sounds like a nice answer and easy to maintain, but I'm still on the fence. Sorry!

[RodKnock]

I would send them off to JetHot. Or whatever the top-shelf high-temp coating serivce that's out there.

[joyridin']

You can have them powder coated with high temp powder coat. it will not burn off and is pretty cheap. The powder coating is good to like 1200 degrees and will not turn colors.

My pipes have been powder coated for years. Not the headers, but the pipes themselves.

[Bernica]

Thanks for the advice guys! I'll post what I end up doing with the results.

[dtmaso]

I've tried both the high-temp VHT white, which after following the directions to a T resulting in immediate flaking/peeling.
I got the car in 2011 and the pipes were apparently VHT white. That didn't last long at all, as rocks chewed the crap out of them.
Then got them JetHot coated (ceramic). The first time they did them it was a crappy job; instantly started flaking and discoloring. They said it was an old batch of coating, so did them again with new batch. They came out much better time, but inconsistent finishes between sides; driver side was glossy, and passenger satin. But still held up pretty well. There was some slight darkening where the four pipe come into the collector - but he did warn me of that. I wasn't terrible.
The terrible thing was that only about 5 days ago I pulled into my driveway after a day of driving to smell burning/melting plastic. Expecting a plastic shopping back melted to my pipe, I discovered that my driver side meatball had detached and melted/bonded to the pipe. I pulled as much as the charred, gooey mess off that I could, then let the car idle and for awhile to burn the remaining vinyl down to ash. I gently scraped most of the remainder off, but permanent black marks were etched into the coating. So now I have to have them coated again. (or just be lazy and try white VHT again.) White looks nice, but it's a PITA.

Think I might look into aluminizing.

PS, if you have static cling decals, you need to remove and clean them once a year with mild soapy water. Also, you may likely find a ring on your paint where the edge of the decal ends - clean and polish that off, and the paint too. Those decals will get dirt beneath them and undermine the cling-ability of the decal.

[moore_rb]

Originally Posted by rms427

So it's been 46 years and about 50,000 miles.

Sorry to thread-jack Bernica's topic, but Ray, I love your car... I have seen a few pictures of it here and there, and I would dare say that from a styling standpoint, it is my absolute favorite original Cobra.

It, along with csx3279, have served as design references for the "street car with a scoop and sidepipes" look that I have been going for with my own, less impressive Fisher-Price Cobra...


To 66GTK's comment about painting over ceramic-coat: That should not be an issue at all. High-temp ceramics (Jet Hot, etc.) are designed to contract and expand at the same rate as the substrate metal beneath them, and if you scuff sand the ceramic and remove all surface contaminants , then high-temp paint should go right over the ceramic without any adhesion issues... Not sure why your collectors are not cooperating..


Regarding off the shelf products - This is all JMHO (take it or leave it), but extreme heat applications like headers is an area where "cheaper is better"

Silicone resin based high temp paints (barbeque paints) are going to apply easier, and hold up better, than more expensive enamel paints (like VHT)

The heat ratings on the best high-temp enamels barely approach 1000F, whereas Silicone high temp paints can endure up to 1300F.

VHT-style enamels are best used for engine blocks, engine bays, transmissions, and other "lower-high temp" applications-

The trade off is finish - high-temp enamels have a slightly smoother finish (they may not be "glossy", but they are "glossier" than the ultra-flat finish with high-temp silicone paints)

But for durability, longevity, heat tolerance, ease of application, and cost, barbeque paints win for me, hands down.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I would send them off to JetHot. Or whatever the top-shelf high-temp coating serivce that's out there.

I checked out Jet-Hot and yes, they are very good. A couple of others around me in SoCal that would save on shipping so checking them out as well.
Thanks again averyone.

[BAsque1]

ceramic coated, contact Firefly, Ron Roberts that's the route that I took. reduced the temperature in the engine bay and the cockpit.