CSX 4145, finally getting sorted out

[Luke427]

But the big "GOODYEAR EAGLE" lettering is NOT "old school" but only dates to the 80s!

Maybe but it looks so cool

Hi Cobrakiwi - I've had such issue with a tank and fuel line on a previous track car. Long story short I realized at some point that gas containing high levels of toluol had been used in the car and as a result, tank foam as well as rubber were decomposing and filling filters all the time.

[Blas]

If and when you add the puller fan(s) be sure to make a totally new wiring circuit. Do not splice them into the pusher fan circuit. Use relays to feed the power to the fans and perhaps add a manual fan switch and fuses. Feel free to contact me if you need guidance.

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by Blas

If and when you add the puller fan(s) be sure to make a totally new wiring circuit. Do not splice them into the pusher fan circuit. Use relays to feed the power to the fans and perhaps add a manual fan switch and fuses. Feel free to contact me if you need guidance.

Done! But thank you. Yep, new circuit with separate relay, activated by thermocouple switch. But I did put a manual switch on my front pusher fans. And when my puller fan kicks on, the airflow causes the pusher fans to spin, anyway.

Only problem now is my dang Girling brakes. They just do not seem to clamp down with proper force on the rotor. It requires an inordinate amount of brake pedal force to slow the car down decently. New masters, new (and softer) brake pads, brake fluid change and gallons bled through the system, and they are only marginally better than before. Only option left that I know of is to try having the calipers rebuilt, a suggestion by Cobrakiwi. But no guarantee that would fix the problem, either. But I'm done working on the car for the time being. Car season is almost over in South Dakota, and I want to enjoy this thing a little bit before the snow starts flying.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Done! But thank you. Yep, new circuit with separate relay, activated by thermocouple switch. But I did put a manual switch on my front pusher fans. And when my puller fan kicks on, the airflow causes the pusher fans to spin, anyway.

Only problem now is my dang Girling brakes. They just do not seem to clamp down with proper force on the rotor. It requires an inordinate amount of brake pedal force to slow the car down decently. New masters, new (and softer) brake pads, brake fluid change and gallons bled through the system, and they are only marginally better than before. Only option left that I know of is to try having the calipers rebuilt, a suggestion by Cobrakiwi. But no guarantee that would fix the problem, either. But I'm done working on the car for the time being. Car season is almost over in South Dakota, and I want to enjoy this thing a little bit before the snow starts flying.

Two additional options, unless I'm missing something.

1. Buy a set of the billet aluminum repro Giirling calipers from Kirkham.
2. Buy a set of Wilwood calipers.

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Two additional options, unless I'm missing something.

1. Buy a set of the billet aluminum repro Giirling calipers from Kirkham.
2. Buy a set of Wilwood calipers.

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

[1ntCobra]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

I got some pictures of them back in August. David said they can send them out to be tumbled (as seen on the right side of the bottom picture) so they look correct for cars driven in vintage races.

Kirkham Motorsports Tour August 2016

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by 1ntCobra

I got some pictures of them back in August. David said they can send them out to be tumbled (as seen on the right side of the bottom picture) so they look correct for cars driven in vintage races.]

Cool- thank you! I will have to see how much they are. I was told $160 apiece to have my current ones rebuilt, and lifetime warranty. I wish I knew for certain this would fix the problem, but I really don't know what else it could be.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

No worries.

The billet aluminum Girling calipers are a $5,000 option when you purchase a Kirkham with the original style suspension. So, rebuilding your calipers for $160 is a more cost effective solution, assuming it works.