Engine Dyno

Rawkkrawler · #1 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 03:05 PM

So i have an appointment to have my engine dyno tested but i've not been able to find the answer regarding the power steering pump. Due to the reverse rotation of the water pump, i need the engine fully dressed with the PS pump itself on the engine. So the question, can the pump be simply looped? Seems as though the high pressure side would be a problem feeding direstly into the low pressure side. Is the pump an "on demand" system and only produces pressure as needed? Am i overthinking it?

Thanks!

spdbrake · #2 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 03:15 PM

You should be able to just reroute what you have minus the PS pump.
I wouldn't reverse flow it for the dyno. (meaning don't screw with the current rotation direction of the water pump)

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com..._rotation.html

Just use a clothing (waist) measuring tape to get and idea of what you'll need for a belt length.

Rawkkrawler · #3 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake

You should be able to just reroute what you have minus the PS pump.
I wouldn't reverse flow it for the dyno. (meaning don't screw with the current rotation direction of the water pump)

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com..._rotation.html

Just use a clothing (waist) measuring tape to get and idea of what you'll need for a belt length.

Unfortunately there is no reroute option to bypass the PS pump. The alternator is on the passenger side, PS on the driver side. I really don't want to temporarily install the opposite rotation pump just for the dyno.

Gaz64 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 04:31 PM

I would do whatever way around not running the p/s pump on the dyno.

I think you could have a large fixed idler in place of the p/s pump.

Maybe google power steering delete kit for your engine?

Gary

Rawkkrawler · #5 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 05:35 PM

This is what i'm working with...

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spdbrake · #6 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 05:58 PM

It looks like if you shorten the Alt turnbuckle quite a bit down to 3-4 threads exposed at each rodend, you should have enough deflection to run a belt just to the alternator and the interference (Idler effect) of the water pump pulley would be enough to run it without slippage.

Rawkkrawler · #7 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake

It looks like if you shorten the Alt turnbuckle quite a bit down to 3-4 threads exposed at each rodend, you should have enough deflection to run a belt just to the alternator and the interference (Idler effect) of the water pump pulley would be enough to run it without slippage.

I saw that too. Unfortunately the bracket wants the alternator to be on the bottom not the top, well i found a way to get it up there. The downfall is that it is pulled inward as far as it can before hitting the arch of the bracket. I'm not ruling it out yet though. Thanks for the suggestion!

spdbrake · #8 (**permalink**) 07-31-2016, 06:19 PM

I see what you mean now. Flipping the bracket may help but probably hurt since it will lower the Alt. and the hardware may not be long enough since their not dropping into the spotfaces. An underdrive water pump pulley would help (Larger dia.)

You may consider taking that one with you a Large NAPA store. Sometimes the warehouse distribution points have a sales counter. Then go shopping for a will-fit part....

Gaz64 · #9 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake

I see what you mean now. Flipping the bracket may help but probably hurt since it will lower the Alt. and the hardware may not be long enough since their not dropping into the spotfaces. An underdrive water pump pulley would help (Larger dia.)

You may consider taking that one with you a Large NAPA store. Sometimes the warehouse distribution points have a sales counter. Then go shopping for a will-fit part....

I think flipping the bracket would raise the alternator a fraction, and allow it to tilt over a fraction more.

Then adding a larger water pump pulley and short belt might do it.

Rawkkrawler · #10 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 03:52 AM

Thanks everyone! Looks like I'll be experimenting a bit this week.

DAVID GAGNARD · #11 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 05:53 AM

Have you used this dyno shop before????

If not, call the operator and ask if you need the water pump on your engine and operational.......

The dyno shop I use down here does not use the water pump on the engine.........first time I used him had the front of the engine fully dressed,he took the water pump off and put an aluminum "plate" in it's place that his radiator hose hooked to and then another hose to the thermostat housing...

his machine has it's own water pump,so no need to have anything on the front of the engine past the timing chain cover.....

give him a call and see what he says.....

click on the camera icon under my name and look in my photo gallery, fist page,should be the third picture from the left,top row,you'll see my engine on the dyno and see what how it's setup.....

David

blykins · #12 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 06:19 AM

+1 to David's words. We even have an electric water pump drive that we can hook up in case we don't have pulleys/brackets, etc. It just mounts to the accessory holes on the head and you can run it in either direction.

Rawkkrawler · #13 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 02:18 PM

Thanks everyone, found the answer.

I did originally speak to the Dyno shop and they only had the GM electric pump, nothing to connect a ford SB.

I spoke to Turn One Steering who rebuilt my pump and they have confirmed that there is no issue at all with looping the pump. The rack has a by-pass when driving straight and pushes low pressure fluid back through the return. When the pump senses resistance, the pump builds pressure.

Hope this helps others, and thanks for the replies!

spdbrake · #14 (**permalink**) 08-01-2016, 02:24 PM

Great to hear it won't damage the pump. Always good to learn a another real tip.