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Yes, I give mine no thought whatsoever. I walk around and glance at the safety wire before each drive but, other than that, nothing else other than antiseize and they've never loosened.
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Ditto. I put between 4,000-6,000 miles per year on my 6 pin drive and never had them loosen, even under hard driving.
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...and yet it was only the other day that I saw a lugged wheel (from a trailer) go sailing past me while I was riding my bike.
Lucky for me, I was riding in the opposite direction, the road was curved in my favour, such that the wheel went into the sidewalk, and come to rest in some shrubs after bouncing a couple times off a brick fence, and the incident happened far enough away that I wasn't really in any danger... Thank goodness however there weren't any pedestrian walking on that sidewalk. PS: The car is priced fine. Asking $40K for the car, and $10K for consignment... Why anyone would purchase a car on consignment boggles my mind. They always put fat in it, and I findmyself thinking I could purchase the same car for less elsewhere or upgrade my choice for the same money. Good luck to both purchaser and seller. The colour looks great. |
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I'm not sure what "FFR Pin Drives" means.
I had an FFR with "pin drive option" which effectively meant "pin drive width control arms, cutting, cussing, and grinding". I bought knock off wheels from Vintage Wheels. They came with a 5-lug adapter kit. I installed the adapters. I took my time and did it right. Then I put the wheels on. I really liked my lead hammer. Every once in a while, I'd check them with a light "tap". Never had a problem. Never even had one budge the slightest after the first check or 2 that needed to be hammered. Not sure the phrase "FFR Pin Drive" being used here means much of anything. FFR doesn't have anything to do with it other than providing shorter arms that allow the wheels to fit. (Patrick, that isn't meant for you, but for people who might be reading and just don't know any better.) After the work was done, I was happy with the result. OK, now I'm just showin' off. I liked that car. :p https://photos.smugmug.com/289CobraL.../O/Adapter.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-XKQH5rt-L.jpg |
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$20k for the complete kit 12K ish for the engine $2500 for tranny $8000-$10000 in paint an body $7-10k in misc stuff (tires, brakes, powdercoating, breeze prts, headers,etc) now your question of "couldn't you build one for less?" Sure... $13000 for the base kit, $1000ish for a donor $1000ish in body/paint material $2000-$3000 in misc stuff So I guess if you used everything off the donor mustang, and didn't spend a penny in rebuilding anything you could be under $20k. I haven't seen a car built like that in a while though. And certainly the car the OP referenced isn't one of those |
Concerning pin drive -
I believe they are reverse thread so they should tighten as the wheel turns. I had them on a Lone Star, never any problems. Maybe the best part of the car. ERA 289 Slabside #3010 |
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Cars depreciate. And none of these will fetch what they cost to build, so build cost can't be used to justify market value. For a FF I would never pay this sort of price....I would not go over $30k if I wanted one, but I don't want one. I can't believe he will get $35k out of it, and he'll be very lucky if he does IMO.
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I'm doubting the car would go that high (without a shill bidding it up) in a no reserve auction setting. 45K and you can still get a much higher quality built car (same make) than this one. Bill S. |
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Drivetrain (always interesting to know) Color combination (always interesting to know) SPF chassis number (so we know which version of the MK III you have) How you are using it (drag race, autocross, road race, Sunday driver, etc) Any interesting history and/or stories about it under your or previous ownership |
OK, where to post? 427 Pond, Tremec, 600 / 600.
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