Frustrated and depressed with this build

[Dominik]

I am on *13*'s side. Step away slightly from the norm and make some innovative changes.
My car had the oil cooler scoop cutoff to allow me to access the garage. People said: How can you do that? My response: With a speed grinder.. It's your car.

Building a car is also building character!

[jon@harrison.ne]

"The next issue is how high do I make the striker? I can't crawl in the trunk after the body is on to measure, so I'm trying,to,calculate it by measuring all the pieces (trunk, hinge, body, etc.). And where do I mount the striker? What does it need to look like? Will it clear the inside of the trunk lid?"

When I built my slabside about 20 years ago I got inside the trunk with a flashlight and closed it (I told my wife what I was doing in case something went wrong!).As I remember it didn't seem that tight. I am 5'11", about 160 lb. If you are too big get a smaller person to try. Once in in, the design of the latch should be obvious.

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

The sides on this bracket, don't need to be 90 degrees, so you can bend it out of strip steel, with no need to weld. If feasible, try cardboard first, check and then copy that.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

Bill,

Over the years, I've felt your frustrations many times, every time I've purchased an unfinished FFR or Contemporary where some of the parts are MIA. However, I also feel the satisfaction of being able to come up with unique solutions to the problems each time, as you will too. This one looks quite feasible, perhaps ask Dave Kirkham to mill it out of a throw away piece of billet .........

Bill S.

[427sharpe]

Have u considered a stainless steel U bolt, mounted perpendicular to the rear bumper line? It gives easy adjustment and is easier to mount in a strong position and still be relatively unobtrusive. My .02!

[krausewich]

Hi Bill.
Been there!!! Most of us probably have had out days.

What I see are two fold.
One, your latch is much higher than normal. It's usually centered on the trunk frame.
Two, your trunk lip looks much longer than usual. Usually between .25-.75" depending on mfg.
We will help you through it !!

I would start with marking up the body with color like you did with the green sharpie, then drop the catch in the down position to mark in the green ink. Drill a hole through that spot, and slowly open up the hole until the striker slips through. Love the concept you have for the catch! I see that there is a plate in the general area of the catch location, have you considered a U bracket that is adjustable up and down via nuts on either side of the solid surface like many hoods and trunks on production cars?

Good luck, and feel free to lean anytime, that's why we are a forum!!
Mike.

Oh yes....
N E V E R!!!! Send your body to the painter, then figure mods out later.... Fit, disassemble, paint, then reassemble....

[Bill D]

After giving it additional thought, and to find a simpler solution, I've sent an email to Bruce for advice.

[Bill D]

Another possible option is to notch the body as shown by the green rectangular line in the photo below. Then make an aluminum plate, bent 90 degrees, slotted and riveted to add some structural support. This assumes the latch arm swings below the body (according to my calculations it does)



This is now my goal

[Antny]

Can't you simply modify the latch arm to make it longer?

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by Antny

Can't you simply modify the latch arm to make it longer?

No it can't

[dallas_]

Dang Bill. These things are supposed to be fun.

If it's not, get rid of it and lose the stress. Life's too short.

[Frank Messina]

Bill,
Never mind. I hadn't seen the last photo.

Frank

[Three Peaks]

Bill,
You are on the right track with the slot AND the raised piece as described. Of the originals I've seen and I believe the Kirkham and Continuation shelbys they use a slot for the swing arm to slot into, then a piece of steel rod - I believe 3/16" steel bent like your piece shown. The loop is designed to be above the floor enough to catch the swing arm and then the swing arm cams it down tight. Shape the rod with a raised center as your drawing above shows, 90 degree legs, and bent 90 degrees on the bottom with loops at the end so you can bolt it to the floor, front and back of the slot. If you get it close, you simply shim it to fit. If it isn't close, you make make a new piece and try again.

Of course, you could go the elaborate route and either drop the tank, take out the trunk floor piece so you can stick your head in there and measure everything, then put it all back together. The clay idea was best, though, IMHO.

Don't let this stuff get to you or you might as well dump it and take up reading novels for a hobby. I know, I had to make my door hinges 5 times and they still aren't 100% right.... also built my floor pedal box, hood and trunk hinges, control arms, shock mounts, trailing arms, and a bunch of other stuff and none of it was right the first time, or the second....

Bob

[Bill D]

I plan to install the body and then take it to the painter to fit the trunklid. Once that's done, I'll have a better understanding of where the latch arm falls using clay. I can then address what's needed. Until then, there are other things that can be done on the car

Thanks for the reassurance and photos of various latching methods

[Bill D]

I contacted Bruce this week regarding the problem with the trunk lid latch. Today, I received what I was looking for; the ultimate solution. As shown in the pics he provided, a simple plate with a 1/4 rod welded to the plate, then riveted to the body, is the solution. Simple, clean, and straightforward

[Bill D]

Today I made a prototype of the trunk latch striker from some leftover material. Yes, my welds suck. The plate is .125 mild steel and the pin .250 rod. Unsure if .125 thick plate is too thick. Feedback welcomed

[LMH]

If there's frame under the body there, you could recess it into the fiberglass.
Larry

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by LMH

If there's frame under the body there, you could recess it into the fiberglass.
Larry

The pin will likely be too low.

[1795]

Bill,

The weld will not show when it is installed, I would to worry about it. Tack it in place with some good tape and check for the proper orientation before making it permanent. If it is too thick you can grind away some of the underside of the latch striker. Once it is painted it will look great and do the job.

[Bill D]

Thanks 1795. I did some measurements and concluded the pin would hit the frame and prevent the striker from laying flat. So I modified it, rewelded it, and blended everything. Now it will clear the frame