Frustrated and depressed with this build

[Bill D]

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

[jolsen42]

Now that wasn't too hard was it?

John O

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by jolsen42

Now that wasn't too hard was it?

John O

Actually it was. It has taken me all weekend, countless hours, to try and come up with a solution. And while I have a "possible" solution on paper, I still have to fab it, and fit it, to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, I'm back to square one. It was never mentioned to me that I had to design and fab a whole bunch of parts.

I still have to install the body and trailer the car to the painter to fit the trunk so I can make a clay impression of the area and evaluate how it will fit, height, location, etc. Painter is 3 hrs away

[1795]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Actually it was. It has taken me all weekend, countless hours, to try and come up with a solution. And while I have a "possible" solution on paper, I still have to fab it, and fit it, to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, I'm back to square one. It was never mentioned to me that I had to design and fab a whole bunch of parts.

I still have to install the body and trailer the car to the painter to fit the trunk so I can make a clay impression of the area and evaluate how it will fit, height, location, etc. Painter is 3 hrs away

Bill,

I can empathize with your frustration over all the fabrication and adjustments that have to be made with some builds. I know that I thought that it will be like building plastic models when I was younger, just read the instructions and apply glue. Then we get a kit and the instructions are not straight forward and there is a lot of fabrication required. I just started helping a friend build his Lonestar Cobra that he has been working on for several years and I cannot believe the amount of adjustments that we have to make to get the body to fit and to install the engine and drivetrain.

It looks like your plan has a good chance of success, although you still may war to add the bungee cords for added security and to complete the FIA look. I would also second the thought that you do not want to send the body to the painter and then make further adjustments and cuts to it. Get it done, and then send it out.

Good luck.

Jim

[Dwight]

Bill I have a buddy that will not latch his trunk. I've known him for 16 years and his trunk has never been latched or locked. Drives a lot. So a loose trunk may not be a problem.
I've left my unlatched and drove it. I did hit a large bump and heard the trunk lid bounce. I pulled over and latched mine.

Dwight

[Dominik]

I am on *13*'s side. Step away slightly from the norm and make some innovative changes.
My car had the oil cooler scoop cutoff to allow me to access the garage. People said: How can you do that? My response: With a speed grinder.. It's your car.

Building a car is also building character!

[G-Pete]

Bill, here is your solution...

[Blas]

The 289 FIA's also use the bungee cord with 2 washers on body. Doesn't lock but keeps it closed.

[jon@harrison.ne]

"The next issue is how high do I make the striker? I can't crawl in the trunk after the body is on to measure, so I'm trying,to,calculate it by measuring all the pieces (trunk, hinge, body, etc.). And where do I mount the striker? What does it need to look like? Will it clear the inside of the trunk lid?"

When I built my slabside about 20 years ago I got inside the trunk with a flashlight and closed it (I told my wife what I was doing in case something went wrong!).As I remember it didn't seem that tight. I am 5'11", about 160 lb. If you are too big get a smaller person to try. Once in in, the design of the latch should be obvious.

[Dwight]

Last summer I was working on a Street Beast which has a fiberglass trunk molded to the body. I cut a trap door in the floor of the trunk so I could reach thru and mark where the hinges needed mounting and the latch. This is before I mount the gas tank. With a door over the gas tank I can easily get to the sending unit later. It will cover it with carpet.

Dwight

[jmimac351]

How youse doin', Bill?

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

The sides on this bracket, don't need to be 90 degrees, so you can bend it out of strip steel, with no need to weld. If feasible, try cardboard first, check and then copy that.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

Bill,

Over the years, I've felt your frustrations many times, every time I've purchased an unfinished FFR or Contemporary where some of the parts are MIA. However, I also feel the satisfaction of being able to come up with unique solutions to the problems each time, as you will too. This one looks quite feasible, perhaps ask Dave Kirkham to mill it out of a throw away piece of billet .........

Bill S.