What Would You Do Differently?
 

My body is at the paint shop and I expect to have it back shortly. Is there anything you guys have learned from your own build that you would do differently. I'm referring specifically to the cockpit interior and engine bay. For instance do you have a radio? If so can you hear it? where is it situated? what and where did you use heat shield or sound deadening material? What seat belts are you using? You get the idea.

Do nothing differently - and no radio - the exhausts are good enough audio.... (Well maybe add turbos)

For quite a while wished I had built a big inch stroker,till I finally got the 460 dialed in. That engine with the right drivetrain is more than enough to keep ones eye wide open. The first time I finished my car realized right away things needed to be changed, an overdrive transmission with rear gear change for street battles and highway cruising.

Rear view mirrors were useless they got changed. Soft top got an upgrade to keep it from slapping me on the head. All the changes were SO worth it the car is a pure joy to drive.

Doorguy,
Your questions are too vague to answer without knowing more about the car and how you plan to use it. For example, if you plan to do track events, you'll want a five point racing harness. If you plan to drive in cold weather, you may want a heater and a tonneau cover. If you plan to have undercar exhaust, a radio might be useful. .... I bought my car used and drove it for two years before completely disassembling it and rebuilding to meet my specific needs. I didn't care about future resale, I was only concerned about it meeting my needs. Tell us what you want from the car and you'll get better answers to your questions. .. Good luck.

That is why God made winter, so we could change our Cobra as we changed our needs. :)

Start with the basic Cobra and in several years it has everything.

Gives us something to do in the winter. Car related, not like shoveling snow.

dwight

Insulate the firewall, foot wells (top/bottom/sides) and transmission cover. If you have aluminum panels consider a little mastic dampproofing like Dynamat but it's heavy so I wouldn't necessarily get carried away with it. Just a few square feet (such as under the seat) will generally dampen vibrations in a floor area. Most effective heat insulation is very light (like Cool It) so you can use as much as you like. Closely inspect the areas coming around the sides of the footboxes towards the door hinge area and concentrate on sealing that are up tight as depending on the kit, a lot of engine heat can find it's way into the cockpit there.

Probably too late for your needs, but the thing I wished I had done was spread the loom on the lounge floor and add in any little extra circuit I needed before it was installed, like ignition box power, immobiliser wiring, sucker fan feed, aux 12V sockets, fused electric choke feed. That would have made my life so much easier.... and the wiring so much neater.

Guys,
Here's a few more specifics. The drive train is finished (427FE, side pipes, toploader with Jag rear). This car will be a weekend driver and I do plan on a track day here and there. I'm planning on 5 point harness. any particular brand you like more than another? Anybody have any thoughts on mechanical throttle linkage or throttle cable? Kevin we will be making the wiring loom from scratch so I can still add things.
Thanks for the responses so far.

I'm building a car with Tilton 600 series floor mounted pedals. That lends itself to a Lokar style cable assembly to the carburetor. So what you use will depend on the entire throttle system. ... As for the harness, as long as it's properly certified, its a matter of preference for appearance, latches, budget, etc. I like the lift latch with a hook because its just like the one in the airplanes I used to fly, so I'm used to it.

For track use, you'll need to protect the engine against oil starvation due to sloshing. After I killed my first engine at an autocross, I added an Accusump and a big red oil pressure low light in the middle of the dash. Novices don't have time to check the gauges on the track. ... If you're going to a fast track with lots of hard braking, you'll want to change the brake fluid before every track day. So put the brake fluid reservoirs where they are easy to reach.

One more thing about track use. After my first day of hard turning I had a good bruise on my left bicep from being pushed into the door. I upgraded to a real racing seat and its much more comfortable. ... My point is that some of the things that will make your car better on the track will also make it appear less authentic (e.g., a real roll bar system). So you need to decide what is more important to you, authentic appearance or functionality.

Gotten a small block instead of a big block fe. Said no one ever. Lol

w/o really knowing the difference in driving characteristic, I kind of wanted a close ratio trans.

For the record... The only way you could get me into a Big Block Cobra is if, you let me keep my small block w/ Webers Cobra!

....just remember that you'll need more fused/switched +12V feeds than you think!

Thanks for the comments guys.

I would have let the body sit outside in the sun for 6 months before painting to allow all shrinking & gassing from bodywork to occur. Mine came out great, but could have been better.

Depending on your weather (driving season) and installed seats, Seat Heaters make for a more comfortable ride on chilly mornings. If you really want music, buy a good remote blue-tooth speaker, don't bother installing a system. Power steering & brakes are very nice for cruising and auto-cross. Installing a radiator shroud will improve cooling significantly.

I used to own a Cobra that had a radio. My current one does not.

I can honestly say that I don't miss the radio, at all.

Buy a used one with a small block that is sorted...

Buy an ERA

I'd have done it sooner...

One other thing I thought of was to line the inner rear fenders, a good sharp rock strike will/does star the fiberglass. Live and learn as they say.