Holley 4150 bowl studs?

[tortuga]

I was thinking as much as bowls come on and off, and judging by all the thread repair kits available, why not fabricate some 10-24 studs for the bowls? It would also make threading on gaskets, metering blocks etc quite easy. Hold it together with nylons and the regular screw gaskets...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by tortuga

I was thinking as much as bowls come on and off, and judging by all the thread repair kits available, why not fabricate some 10-24 studs for the bowls? It would also make threading on gaskets, metering blocks etc quite easy. Hold it together with nylons and the regular screw gaskets...

The reason there are so many thread repair kits available is because guys over-torque the screws. It's not hard to do, considering the torque value is only 25 to 30 inch/pounds. I now always use a pointer type, not click type, torque wrench that goes down that low when I put the bowls back on. I've cracked bowls before when I didn't use a torque wrench and my hands and wrists can't really judge torque values that low. So, the bottom line is you don't need studs, just don't over-torque the screws and they'll last forever.

[Phx Mike]

Seems like a good idea. Would help error proof it for me!

[FWB]

first they are not 10-24 , second is with a stud there you would be tightening it driving it deeper every time you cinched on the nut and it would pull threads easier.
replace screws regularly, don't over tighten and there shouldn't be an issue.
if you do pull a thread, doing a helicoil isn't the end of the world

[Gaz64]

Another reason not to use a stud is how to seal the stud/nut thread against fuel leakage.
Also, with studs fitted, it would take a fair time to drain the bowl prior to removal.
For the countless times I have done up Holley bowl screws, I have never stripped one.
Having said that, I helicoil all threads in my carburetors, expecially early zinc castings.
A helicoil is effectively like fitting a larger diameter bolt, so has more holding power under tension.
Gary