Update - Here's a pic of the cleaned up 3.54:1 differential with the new brakes and rotors fitted. The "newer" 3:31 series 2 unit has the less desirable ball bearings in the outputs and given the dodgy condition of the rest of the internals, I decided to set it aside completely.
Next, I had to address the brake issue; and while some online sources claim the calipers are interchangeable between series' 1 and 2, there just wasn't enough space behind the horseshoe-shaped mounting brackets to allow the longer mounting bolts to get started. I realized that I could bolt the calipers to the brackets and then bolt the assembly onto the bearing caps, but since the mounting bolts for the brackets also attach the bearing caps to the case, concerns about future servicing of the calipers on the car with everything safety wired, etc. made this a less than desirable option.
So out came the trusty Dremel, and with a bit of clearancing on the case in four spots to allow the longer mounting bolts to get started, I was happily able to attach the brakes properly without any compromises or MacGyverisms. Now, with everything bolted up tight and no shims installed, the rotors look eyeball-centered in the calipers - subject of course to measurement and adjustment on final assembly. It all comes back apart for the stub axle rebuilds as soon as the bearings and seals, etc. arrive.
In the mean time, I'll focus on the routing of the new brake lines and fabbing-up of a remote rear brake bleeder system to make that task a lot less cussworthy down the road. I'm looking at this setup from Fosseway Performance, but since It's designed for the stock differential cage, it might be just as easy to make it from scratch with my choice of location for the bleeder screws.
I also need to rebuild the parking brake setup, and my previous experience with those has me considering the installation of a hydraulic line-lock switch as a backup.
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