08-18-2018, 10:16 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gilroy,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2291, Whipple Blown & Injected 4V ModMotor
Posts: 2,645
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Not Ranked
Jack up the rear of the car. Have a friend try to rotate the rear tire as you depress the clutch pedal. When the rear tire rotates the clutch is released.
Set your clutch stop two turns deeper. If the clutch is new there will be a small amount of wear as the friction surfaces seat in to each other. After the clutch is broken in, reset your clutch pedal stop and you will be good to go for quite a while.
When it finally gets finicky about shifting again, reset the clutch pedal stop again.
Do not over stroke the throwout bearing / clutch fingers. Once the rear tire spins the clutch is released. Set the clutch pedal stop at that point plus two turns.
Ed
p.s. As the clutch gets older if you use an external slave with an adjustable push rod (or pull rod) you could adjust the clutch using the adjustable push rod instead of the clutch stop. The benefit to the pushrod adjustment is preventing the slave cylinder from over-stroking and pushing out the piston.
If you use a candlestick centric internal TOB follow the manufacturer's instructions for set up. That will position the internal piston with the most travel before leakage occurs.
If you use a candlestick centric TOB do not use one with banjo fittings. The o-rings will fail from the heat in the can and you will need to be towed home.
The candlestick TOB's w/o banjo fittings, similar to the ones that Detroit uses, provide excellent service life w/o fear of o-ring failure.
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Last edited by eschaider; 08-18-2018 at 10:38 AM..
Reason: added postscript
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