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  • 2 Post By strictlypersonl

 
 
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2018, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8tr View Post
I agree with you 100%- but inmy case the car was built POORLY. I definitely will be moving suspension points, steering rack ect. Just a couple of examples I have figured out so far from reading/researching:

1) steering rack is about 4 INCHES too wide: from what I have read, to minimize bump steer the steering rack inner pivot points are supposed be on the imaginary line between the upper and lower A arm inner suspension pivots, and they are INCHES off on each side. The way is is now, any bump steer correction will give perfect bump steer at ride height +/- about 1/4" of travel, then all hell breaks loose.
What length are you looking for?

Quote:
2) the imaginary lines created by the upper and lower rear 4 link arms are supposed to cross somewhere close to the front of the car, but they actually point BACKWARDS and no way to adjust that out
Interesting. In a bad way. Usually the fix is to weld taller brackets on the rear end housing.

Quote:
3) lower A arms at ride height are nowhere near level, they point up about 2" from chassis to where they attach to the uprights. Drop spindles will fix that, but then i have no idea what happens to camber curve etc.
That would depend on whether the distance between the top and bottom ball joint changes. Usually dropped spindles keep the original distance.
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