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Cool Safety Wiring
I'm finally getting around to replacing some bolts, that are in difficult to inspect areas, with AN rated drilled-head bolts. I've had a few bolts work their way loose in the past and this pretty much puts that problem to rest. I haven't had a cause to safety wire dual bolts to one another in a long time so I took a pic of it.;) This is the reversed shift lever that bolts to the top of the Tremec. They are cadmium plated AN6 aircraft bolts, and are marked with the "X" -- the AFC above that is the manufacturer's mark, which in this case is AIRFASCO.
http://38.134.118.239/an6_sf.jpg |
Are there nuts on the other end or are they just threaded into the shifter???
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That seems to be a lot of extra work, what"s wrong with a little locktite ? I"m just saying.;)
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Sweet. Very tidy!
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Not easy to do right - these are! Nice work!
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Nice job there Patrick.
My shifter has countersunk holes, with a pair 5/16 hex countersunk allen key screws. They never come loose. The countersink prevents the shifter moving. Too plates bolted together with normal bolts in this fore/aft situation are prone to coming loose. Common situation these days are balljointed swaybar links that loosen the nut, since the load is sideways across the mounting point. Gary |
Very clean safety wire work.
I still prefer a threadlocker with an application of CROSSCHECK torque seal. A thin line of orange torque seal applied to the side of nut/bolt head onto the mating surface provides immediate visual cue if that bolt/nut/screw has rotated. Make periodic inspection of all critical areas with a flashlight and a glance. |
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Patrickt - what other bolts have you found loosened up on your ERA? Not asking to be smart - just thinking I probably need to check any problem ones on mine.
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* The hidden clutch linkage set screw, that allows everything to fall apart when it backs out, and that was the subject of this thread: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...set-screw.html * The shifter handle bolts that were the subject of this thread * The steering rack bushing bolts * Motor mount bolts and transmission mount bolts * Seat bolts * And then a bunch of the miscellaneous button head cap screws The only one that required a tow home was the clutch set screw, which was only a two minute repair once I had her up in the air. (I've since modified that part so it can't do it again) The transmission shifter bolts almost required a tow home when one fell out, but I was able to limp her home in second gear. But with any of these cars you just need to periodically check every bolt from nose to toes.:cool: |
Thanks Patrick. I remember about the clutch linkage set screw. I think I put Loctite on mine but I should re-check it. I've become a big fan of blue Loctite -- a little dab will do ya.
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Were the bolts pre-drilled, or do you have a jig for doing this?
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Not bad, but as a former aircraft technical inspector, I would had to have failed this particular safety. The initial loop though the bottom fastener should have been at the bottom of the bolt head - The two sections of wire should not touch. Also 6-8 twists per inch is what you are looking for with about a 1/2 " "pigtail" at the end that should be bent back into the bolt head. This keeps it from snagging on things, like your skin! All in all not a bad attempt and a good way to keep things tight. Did you use safety wire pilers, or was this done by hand?
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Gun Doc.....Yup.
Don't worry Patrick, Ill give you an A for effort and an a- for results. Most people cant spell safety wire? I have trouble finding stainless safety wire to do the injector parts on my deuce. |
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Nice work.. Been many a profanity expressed to anyone in earshot after snagging on a lockwire pigtail not folded over the years! When you cut the wire it is as sharp as a dang hypodermic needle therefore is generally stopped by hitting bone!:CRY:
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