Pond Fe:Verifying dipstick

[Gaz64]

To calibrate the dipstick, all you need to do is;

Fill the pan to it's capacity which in your case is 7QTS
Thread the dipstick into the pan (pull the dipstick and check for oil level)
If no oil level is found, remove dipstick from tube and use a tubing cutter to remove 1/4" from the top at each interval
Once you are comfortable with where the full line is, the dipstick is calibrated.

Thank You
Nick Ansaldi
Canton Racing Products

If this is the case, what is the service fill after changing the oil?

I thought the quoted pan capacity was meant to be the service fill volume to have the correct level AFTER changing the oil, otherwise how does one know what the service fill is?

Gary

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I thought the quoted pan capacity was meant to be the service fill volume to have the correct level AFTER changing the oil, otherwise how does one know what the service fill is?

It actually doesn't make a difference on run-of-the-mill oil changes because when you drain your oil you are really only draining the sump. You don't drain your oil cooler, your oil filter, or the nooks and crannies that are holding oil, so those are, and should be, excluded from the sump volume number. In fact, the pan manufacturer has no idea how much total oil is in your system because you might have a remote oil filter, with extra lines, an oil cooler, along with extra lines, and who knows what. But they do know that the sump should hold X quarts. Now, if you do like most of us and fill your filter up manually, then when you change your oil and filter you will add more than the total volume of your pan. So, when I do a "kind of service fill" I tend to add about 3/4's of a quart more than the sump volume of my Canton pan to hit the "FULL" mark because I am adding that directly to the filter. If I used my vacuum sucker to get all the oil, via a suction tube, from my cooler, then my "true service fill" would be, I'm guessing, about a quart more (I never suck the oil out of the cooler). But, regardless of what I do, after I start the car, run it a bit, and then let it rest, the volume that is in the sump should be the designated volume quantity that the manufacturer has listed regardless of whether I have filled the filter separately, or the oil cooler separately.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by patrickt

It actually doesn't make a difference on run-of-the-mill oil changes because when you drain your oil you are really only draining the sump. You don't drain your oil cooler, your oil filter, or the nooks and crannies that are holding oil, so those are, and should be, excluded from the sump volume number. In fact, the pan manufacturer has no idea how much total oil is in your system because you might have a remote oil filter, with extra lines, an oil cooler, along with extra lines, and who knows what. But they do know that the sump should hold X quarts. Now, if you do like most of us and fill your filter up manually, then when you change your oil and filter you will add more than the total volume of your pan. So, when I do a "kind of service fill" I tend to add about 3/4's of a quart more than the sump volume of my Canton pan to hit the "FULL" mark because I am adding that directly to the filter. If I used my vacuum sucker to get all the oil, via a suction tube, from my cooler, then my "true service fill" would be, I'm guessing, about a quart more (I never suck the oil out of the cooler). But, regardless of what I do, after I start the car, run it a bit, and then let it rest, the volume that is in the sump should be the designated volume quantity that the manufacturer has listed regardless of whether I have filled the filter separately, or the oil cooler separately.

Thanks for your explanation on this Patrick.
I'm sure others will benefit from this as well.

Gary