Looking for info and advice, 427 SO

[olddog]

Originally Posted by RUFdriver

I’d be seriously worried about what else is out of spec

Anybody who can build any engine, should be able to get bearing gaps and ring gaps right. They should be able to torque bolts correctly. Where an FE gets real different than other engines, would be points of concern, if this builder did not have much FE experience. Valve train is one of those places.

Another spot is the cam bearings. The SO oil system is different than the center oilers. If CO cam bearings are put in a SO, it will close off oil flow. I'm not recalling the specifics right this very moment. In fact, the whole oil system on FE engines is different than most other designs. Since this was just to freshen up the engine, the cam bearings may not have been touched. If they were changed, I would want to make sure enough oil was going to the top end. If not that would make things noisy too.

Sloppy work in general is always a concern. However the valve lash may not be an indication of sloppy work. In my puppy days, I never bothered to closely gap solid lifters on the engine stand. I just snugged one valve up, seen how much of a turn was needed to get the cold gap about right, and then just repeated the snug and loosen on the rest. That was close enough to fire up the engine and warm it up. Heat cycle it a couple times and then adjust them hot.

It doesn't sound like this was the builders plan, but maybe he was thinking someone needed to adjust the valves hot anyway. Then when he saw it, his next thought was the side to side play needed fixed first. Some people do not elaborate on what all they are thinking, just what they want to do. I don't know, I'm just trying to give the builder the benefit of the doubt, as well.

[RUFdriver]

Originally Posted by olddog

Anybody who can build any engine, should be able to get bearing gaps and ring gaps right. They should be able to torque bolts correctly. Where an FE gets real different than other engines, would be points of concern, if this builder did not have much FE experience. Valve train is one of those places.

Another spot is the cam bearings. The SO oil system is different than the center oilers. If CO cam bearings are put in a SO, it will close off oil flow. I'm not recalling the specifics right this very moment. In fact, the whole oil system on FE engines is different than most other designs. Since this was just to freshen up the engine, the cam bearings may not have been touched. If they were changed, I would want to make sure enough oil was going to the top end. If not that would make things noisy too.

Sloppy work in general is always a concern. However the valve lash may not be an indication of sloppy work. In my puppy days, I never bothered to closely gap solid lifters on the engine stand. I just snugged one valve up, seen how much of a turn was needed to get the cold gap about right, and then just repeated the snug and loosen on the rest. That was close enough to fire up the engine and warm it up. Heat cycle it a couple times and then adjust them hot.

It doesn't sound like this was the builders plan, but maybe he was thinking someone needed to adjust the valves hot anyway. Then when he saw it, his next thought was the side to side play needed fixed first. Some people do not elaborate on what all they are thinking, just what they want to do. I don't know, I'm just trying to give the builder the benefit of the doubt, as well.

I’ve seen some pretty big F ups from experienced engine builders, sometimes **** just happens, get it checked out. Ford hasn’t raced the FE motor in what, 40 years or so? I would find someone very experienced in those old motors and consider having it redone. In the meantime, adjust the valve lash and monitor closely.

[L79v]

Thanks to all who responded, special thanks to Steve in GA. Today I was going to adjust valve lash. Started by taking out the plugs, to make rotating the engine easier. Seemed to me they were too tight, especially in aluminum heads.
I used a torque wrench to loosen them, took over 40 ft lbs, except one which was almost loose. From what I've read (gasket type plugs) they should be installed at 18 to 20. Got them all out, no apparent damage. Next, I got a socket on the crankshaft pulley center nut, Although the starter has no problem
turning the engine over, felt hard to rotate. Put a torque wrench on it, took about 80 ft lbs to move it. At that point I decided to have a local shop I trust
to take a look at it, if they can get it scheduled. Will let you know how that turns out.

[120mm]

Originally Posted by L79v

Thanks to all who responded, special thanks to Steve in GA. Today I was going to adjust valve lash. Started by taking out the plugs, to make rotating the engine easier. Seemed to me they were too tight, especially in aluminum heads.
I used a torque wrench to loosen them, took over 40 ft lbs, except one which was almost loose. From what I've read (gasket type plugs) they should be installed at 18 to 20. Got them all out, no apparent damage. Next, I got a socket on the crankshaft pulley center nut, Although the starter has no problem
turning the engine over, felt hard to rotate. Put a torque wrench on it, took about 80 ft lbs to move it. At that point I decided to have a local shop I trust
to take a look at it, if they can get it scheduled. Will let you know how that turns out.

Ruh Roh, Raggy....