FFR MK4 headlight upgrade and head restraint
 

I took delivery of my Roadster a few days ago and it's CLEAN, delivered with a couple trophies in the trunk.
Tentatively my Mechanic is really impressed. He says the attention to detail is great. It wasn't built by a dummy or on the cheap, but I knew that. That said, the headlights are really dim. Also, I'd feel a lot better if I could rig up some head restraint. Some of you have already given a couple ideas but I haven't come across the exact right idea yet. I'd really appreciate your thoughts on both of these things, as well as some guidance toward shift knob replacements. Mine just has a little black thing, nothing fancy.

You might like this: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...woodcraft.html

I'm in a similar situation with my sealed beam headlights--they are period-correct, but pretty abysmal at lighting the road.

I just pre-ordered a pair of these LED lights. Kinda rolling the dice, but the company seems to have a good reputation on their other products, plus they are the nicest looking LED lights I've seen to date (and they are pretty low powered, too).
https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7

Excellent, thank you both.

Are the headlights run through a relay? If not, this would be a great place to start even before you look at upgrading the headlight itself.

Here are some links for what I am using. They are great compared to standard halogens. They light up the road well and do not seem to bother oncoming drivers, never had anyone flash their highbeams. They have 165° beam that light up the ditches next to you.

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-201...8-1-spons&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/SPL-Classic-H...ateway&sr=8-19


Hope you find what works for you.

Awesome, thx.

Not sure.

An option.

Now, I'm old and don't like the LED headlights, either the look or the color although there are now many newer options.

I've run an older version of these and this is what I'll use in my current build. Excellent light and they look "right". Wire with a relay and good power for best performance.

https://www.rallylights.com/hella-su...t-hl39519.html Susquehanna is a great supplier.

Choose a H4 bulb that meets your needs, there are many varieties in color and output.

Jim

I found the Sylvania Silverstars to be a pretty big improvement over the tripods and they look period correct.

John

The big danger is that the current required for the headlights is running through the switch on your dash. That is the traditional method of wiring 1960's car headlights. Even with just a regular 60 watt bulb, that is pushing a Lucas toggle switch to its limit. If you upgrade your headlights to something that draws more amperage then a relay is absolutely, positively mandatory. Personally, I think you should do it on these cars if you do much night-time driving at all. On all of our cars, it's a very easy and cheap upgrade. See my thread here, for example: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...g-upgrade.html

I run those on my Land Cruiser. A nice upgrade with zero modifications necessary.

Does the car have a Tremec? If it’s not been registered for warranty they will send you a free shift knob. Lots of sources for shift knobs, find out the thread size and start searching. I like a nice white knob, but that’s me.

Cool, thanks.

Acton makes a pretty nice head rest that clamps to the roll bar.

I bought one for mine. The roll bar on mine has a bolt in the perfect spot to give me an extra unwanted skull orifice.

http://actoncobra.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=237

There used to be a guy who made cheap ones out of plastic and plywood for the FFR mk3- held on with velcro.
Not as pretty, but they came off in 10 seconds.

The acton one is rock solid, and just about perfect position for me as a usable head rest.

Hell yeah. That's what I've been looking for!

Those light assemblies look well made. The website omitted (2) things
you should inquire about. Total lumen and color temperature
of the output. Standard H4 halogen bulbs put out about 1000 lumens.
Color temperature of 2700K is yellowinsh, 4000K is natural white light.
Output will take on a more white/blue tint at 5500-6500K.

During installation you may not be able to fit that power plug and inline
power adapter within the small allowable space behind the headlight
when mounted inside the light bucket. This will facilitate mounting
the power adapter and plug-in on the outside of the light bucket.
Not a big deal, just be prepared to McGyver an acceptable solution.

Once installed you will certainly enjoy the improvement.

Best of luck.

Thanks. I called and talked to a tech. The headlights are rated at 1800 lumens, although that doesn't mean a whole lot as beam pattern and resulting lux is more important. Color temperature is on the blue side--about 6k I think. I figured I'd get them and send 'em back if they don't fit or if I don't like the illumination. The other lights have good reviews, so I think they're pretty high quality.

Selo, first congrats on a beauty! At first glance I thought it was mine that I let go of last August and regret it now. The giveaway it wasn’t was the louvres are not painted the same as the body. There are some good threads back on FF forums on upgrading your lights and may be more helpful. Patrick does call out a good thing about the relay and it’s possible the builder already took this into account? I know I did with my build just in case. Tell us more about your specs? Engine?

Thanks very much. I wish I had printed out the hemings at while I had the chance. The factory five Mark 4 was completed in 2013 with a 1990 Mustang GT donor. It has a 302 motor, with an Edelbrock manifold, a Ford racing cam, it'll Brock racing pistons, and easy fast 1.0 EFI. The builder says it probably puts out just north of 300 horsepower. It has a 3.31 rear end, and T5 manual transmission. 300 horsepower sounds about right, by seat-of-the-pants Dino. I had a 2014 GT500 before this, with 662 horsepower from the factory that I put a 331 rear end in, and this car does not feel as insanely fast as that car. The horsepower to weight ratio is not quite as aggressive on this car, and it's not as eager to break the tires loose. The Roadster has koni coilovers, with a live rear axle and a panhard bar. 17in halibrand rims. My mechanic was pretty impressed with the quality to detail with which it was built. Also, the builder put in all kinds of thoughtful touches, fans to bring fresh air into the suck Wells, Bluetooth for audio and phone, a hidden ignition cut-off switch so that the car won't start if you want to leave it parked in a public place, things like that. it has a couple small things I need to address, but overall I'm really pleased. I had no idea what to expect, bought it sight unseen, with the idea that I was buying based upon the builder and previous owner more than the miles orit has a couple small things I need to address, but overall I'm really pleased. I had no idea what to expect, bought it site unseen, with the idea that I was buying based upon the builder and previous owner more than the miles or cubic inches of the motor. Actually, I specifically didn't want a 427, as I've had mad horsepower before, and I wanted this to be more drivable, and less likely to be wrapped around a tree. The color is called indigo blue metallic. I was told it's a Mercedes color.