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Any Hi-tech guys out there?
Just picked up Hi-tech body and chassis! First question, which rear end? Spent some time looking on line, not much on Hi-tech.
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Albert
If it's a high tech out of Arizona I'll try to help you if I can I started hi-tech in 1980 sold it. Then hired by Shelby September '94 Tom |
WOW! Thanks,that would be awsome!
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Yes. I purchased mine in early 1994.
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Here is a link to my 5 year Hi-Tech build.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/scra...ech-build.html Craig Coombe (Cobrakiwi) did an amazing jog and he should be able to help you out. I went with a Kirkham differential and original style halfshafts. |
Mongoose,
I purchased this body/chassis from craig. He been fantastic to deal with! Been to your build link and read it through several times, awesome car! |
HTM101, which rear end? You wouldn't be on west coast, i'd like to see one up close.
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I would suggest one of our bracket kits for the jag diff or look at Tom's (Tjd) setup for a C3 diff.
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GT 40 body
Tjd, awsome, thanks, I will get chassis number off chassis, a we can move forward from there.
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My Hi-Tech project is back on track. Got some questions for you. 1. My HT Door skins and HT door frames are not fitting well. See in the photo the top tube will not fit into the skin. Any ideas? 2. The door frame radius doesn't match the body radius. Any ideas? http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_6446.jpeg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_6448.jpeg |
doors
Will try to help you the best I can the way I mounted the door frames to the doors hood and trunk was to rivet flashing on it like you would do if you were doing an aluminum skin then bonded the flashing to the door skin you have to make sure it contour to the shape of the door or hood trunk skins and that’s the way we did it on the 4000 cars then we drop the flashing made the frames a little closer to the door and then just bonding them on with 3M of which I can’t remember what we used.
fitting the doors before you put the skins on it this goes for hood and trunk I will try to find a picture that I have sent someone else clamp a piece of aluminum to the door frame and line it up like it’s the leading edge of the door and then open the door and see if it clears the body as it opens if it doesn’t you have to move the hinge pins either out closer to the outer skin or forward. The upper steering column shift is 30-3/4”long Hope you can understand my rambling I talk to my phone so If something doesn’t sound right it’s the phones fault. Tom |
Talk to Mongoose, he knows all abot the doors.
He would be full of great insight along with Craig Combs who has built a bunch bot alloy, glass and hybrid. |
It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the top of the door skin needs to go over the top of the frame more and that should make the bottom tube come closer to the skin. I've always welded the hinge mount after the skin and frame are fitted and bonded together. My guess is the hinge pad on your frame isn't welded on in the correct place based on the way the point near the steering is almost hitting the body.
I've only done a couple Hi-Tech's but I used Lord's Fusor to bond the frame to the skin. They have several different formulas, I've only tried this one. https://www.jbtools.com/lord-fusor-1...ow-set-10-1-oz Quote:
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Hi Kris,
So you think by moving the hinge plate the door frame that's mismatched to the body will come in line? How much of the curved lip should I remove? Im thinking if that were trimmed way back the door frame might fit inside. |
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Do I need to glass in the alum flashing to the door skin after gluing like the CSX 4000 cars? |
I am not sure how a csx 4000 is done. But it would not hurt to glass the skin to the flashing. See if you can find some pictures of how an original aluminum car door skin were installed. They were wrapped around the tube at the top and rivetted to it . The sides and bottom were crimped on like most normal car door skins are installed. To do that is why you have to attach the flashing around the sides and bottom of the tube frame. The flashing is rivetted to the steel tubing frame. You will be doing the same thing. But instead of crimping the skin on you will be using glue or fiber glass. You will also have to make sure the Tube frame is the right shape.
Get started by seeing if you can get the skin over the top tube. |
I spent some time looking for you . Here is a link here a club cobra . It shows how the skins are attached. Make sure you look at both pages. Should get you on the right track.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/scra...ml#post1342449 |
Great tips thanks brothers! Working on it now, will let you know what happens.
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