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Ok then if you do not know what material your cam is what would be the best gear to purchase ?
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Is it a roller camshaft or flat tappet camshaft?
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Easiest way to tell is to put up a spec sheet of the engine, or better yet, the cam card. You could also call the builder and ask what/which cam it is.
Second easiest way is to pull the distributor out and shoot us a picture of the cam. Cast core camshafts, even rollers, are very rough between the lobes, because they...…..are...…..cast...…… Billet cams are made of a billet of steel and have a more machined appearance. |
You guys are inferring that pulling and reinstalling distributor gears is a piece of cake. In theory, can't you do it only twice? Have to install new gear with the roll pin 90 degree from the old roll pin hole and drill new hole.
Or, are you somehow lining up the roll pin hole on the new gear with existing hole in shaft? |
I only like to do it twice, including the original gear install. I've never had an issue doing it that way.
Trying to line up the pin hole with a press fit gear, while simultaneously making sure the gear is installed with the correct dimension is almost impossible. To everyone reading this, Ford has a dimensional tolerance, measured from the bottom face of the gear to the distributor flange. This has to be held, or you will get wear on the gear or on the engine block itself. There's a different spec on whether the end play is taken out or present when you measure. For instance, on a SBF MSD distributor, you push the shaft towards the rotor, taking out the end play, and the spec should be 3.995-4.005". An FE has a different dimension, 3.045-3.050". A BBF uses a Cleveland distributor, which uses the SBF dimension. |
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What I don't understand, why ask the question, then get good advise and not be willing to follow it? |
You guys crack me up.MSD. says nickle copper alloy [bronze]. The fist one will wear right away the next should go for at least 75k.This was quoted from a engine builder on the net. Just for ****s and giggles I will pull the distributor and send you all a picture of my old bronze gear.
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Yeah, that makes perfect sense. :rolleyes:
Bronze gears are for GM products. |
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My computer is a total pain, can not find files, for posting so it may take me a few days to get you all the pictures of the gear .may take me a few days but I promise I will get around to it once I pull out the distributor.
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Pics of the distributor gear are not important, it is the camshaft type (roller or flat tappet) that we need to see here.
Do you have roller lifters or flat tappet lifters? |
guys I don't understand why this is a 2 page thread? what is the cam spec?
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You do have opinions and suggestions from a range of sources now — some very knowledgeable. All you have to do is choose the course of action you prefer. If you choose wisely you will hear the congratulations from the advisors who provided the guidance. If you choose well, not so wisely, you will not only have the damaged parts and all the attendant clean up, fix up work but then there is the well, cat calls from those who tried to save you from that ignominious ending. As the Knight Templar cautioned Indy, as he was noodling out which of the various cups before him was in fact the Holy Grail, "... choose wisely, he did not." The "he" that the Knight was referring to was the dead Nazi collaborator, now a pile of dust on the floor. Like Indy, you have multiple choices before you — choose wisely, only one is right! Ed |
Just as I thought you guys are living out the wrong movie . Indy has no interest in bronze gears, and even less for the composite ones.
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You might be interested in the condition of the bronze gear, and the bronze particles, in this current thread over on the FE forum. A lot of good pics: https://www.fordfe.com/uh-oh-stroker...n-t163227.html
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pics of the gear
1 Attachment(s)
Ok as promised looks new 1500 miles!:3DSMILE:Attachment 33549
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