Getting ready to pull heads

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by tortuga

Done that drill lke 5 times now, finally ended up with flatout 0.120 gaskets, trimmed the tops so that the inward taper on the upper part of the heads didn't force the gaskets down, maximized the area on the bottom where the intake bears...Think thats a problem with these big port head there isn't but like 3/8" of gasket area at the bottoms of the intake ports...

Did you smear a thin layer of RTV on gaskets? Re-torque after 24 hours? Then re-torque AGAIN after engine run and heated to operating temperature?

It took ALL of the above to finally get mine to seal.

[blykins]

You simply can't put any of these engines together reliably without using sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets. Every engine I build, whether it's a Windsor, Cleveland, FE, etc., gets the gaskets glued to the heads, and sealant between the gasket and the intake.

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by blykins

You simply can't put any of these engines together reliably without using sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets. Every engine I build, whether it's a Windsor, Cleveland, FE, etc., gets the gaskets glued to the heads, and sealant between the gasket and the intake.

All the gasket makers say to go commando...but I’m getting so quick at swapping out the manifold these days I may have another go...interestingly enough I read a review on summit where a guy does the same: glues (permatex aviation sealant) the gasket to the head, sets it by snugging down the intake, waits, then checks and then glues the intake to the gasket.

Another thing, whatever is going on seems equal in all holes as the plugs all look the same...

Steve H

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by tortuga

All the gasket makers say to go commando...

Agreed - that's what they recommend / require. I followed Edelbrock's instructions the first time and it didn't seal. When I did it again I used a thin smear of RTV (Ultra Black, not Right Stuff - it sets too fast, particularly when spread thin) on both sides of the gaskets, plus the China wall, of course. The instructions I found also had me torquing 5 ft lbs higher than Ford's spec, plus added the additional 24 hour and after running torque steps. Made all the difference.

p.s. I didn't add coolant until after the 24 hour torquing.

[Gaz64]

Steve,

Do the gaskets come off dry when disassembled, point of concern is around the intake port opening of the gasket.

You say all spark plugs look identical.

Dark from fuel or oil?

What colour is this "puff" of smoke you notice?

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Steve,

Do the gaskets come off dry when disassembled, point of concern is around the intake port opening of the gasket.

You say all spark plugs look identical.

Dark from fuel or oil?

What colour is this "puff" of smoke you notice?

Come off somewhat wet

Plugs are dark but not oily/wet

Puff is blue

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by tortuga

Come off somewhat wet

Plugs are dark but not oily/wet

Puff is blue

That tells me the oil is from the valley area.

They should look dry, or at least look the same as when you reassembled.

[MKS427]

Originally Posted by blykins

You simply can't put any of these engines together reliably without using sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets. Every engine I build, whether it's a Windsor, Cleveland, FE, etc., gets the gaskets glued to the heads, and sealant between the gasket and the intake.

Which glue/sealant are you recommending at heads, intake, and china wall?
Thanks,
Mark

[tortuga]

I re-fitted the intake using .070 ford racing gaskets, sealed on both sides with permatex aviation sealer (Absolute mess).

still eats oil.

Tried some restore engine restorer, (which has quite a few favorable reviews), the oil consumption has slowed dramatically...Which was another FRP 427/535 owners fix.

Ill keep using the restore, and at some point pull this thing and go through it top to bottom.

Steve H
SPO 1764