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Old 12-19-2019, 02:15 AM
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Had this problem and I found out it was oil wicking from improperly sealed intake rocker studs. The last 408 I built I paid particular attention to this and the cleaning and drying process of the studs and threaded holes. "Brake cleaner"
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:03 AM
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Default Here we go again

Pulled the intake, sure as hell the back (head) side of the intake was wet. Also as I’ve noticed, the bottom of the ports had minimal gasket coverage. I am thinking that I’ve been over compressing the gasket causing the thing to creep down exacerbating the problem. This time I’ve marked the gaskets by putting them on the manifold and heads alternately to get the best vertical position.

After a good cleaning I coated the head side of new ford Motorsport gaskets and put them on to my marks,

I then put Saran Wrap on the manifold side and installed the manifold,

Then maneuvered the gaskets perfectly to my marks and snugged down the manifold,

Going to wait about 6 hrs, then remove the manifold from the Saran Wrap, remove the Saran Wrap clean any goo from the ports, apply the sealant to the intake and assemble. Think I will again just snug it down, wait another 6 plus hos then torque it down

This time I think I’ll only go to maybe 15 ft-lb or so?
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:24 AM
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Yeah, I don’t care what the gasket makers say. Use sealant or you’ll be doing it again.

Glue the gaskets to the heads, set the intake on overnight to mash the gaskets down, then come back with another layer of sealant, lay beads for china walls, then bolt it down.

Tightening the intake down isn’t causing your problems.
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Old 12-29-2019, 01:20 PM
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Default Second manifold already...

Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Yeah, I don’t care what the gasket makers say. Use sealant or you’ll be doing it again.

Glue the gaskets to the heads, set the intake on overnight to mash the gaskets down, then come back with another layer of sealant, lay beads for china walls, then bolt it down.

Tightening the intake down isn’t causing your problems.
I’m also going to grind off the raised portion of the manifold Where it meets the China walls (raised when upside down). It does rock a very little when set on the engine without gaskets, ford instructions say there should be .040” at China walls with manifold on engine sans gaskets...

P.S. man this permatex aviation gasket maker is some really messy $hit...
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Old 12-29-2019, 09:53 PM
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Any V8 should have a measurable gap between the bottom of the manifold and the block, with gaskets in place.

I like to aim for for .040, .060 is generally ok.

If the manifold touches the block, it cannot be fitted to the heads correctly, and then oil consumption is the result.

What were you sealing the manifold to block junction with?
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Old 10-06-2020, 02:20 PM
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Default Sealant type

Aerobic or anaerobic?




Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Yeah, I don’t care what the gasket makers say. Use sealant or you’ll be doing it again.

Glue the gaskets to the heads, set the intake on overnight to mash the gaskets down, then come back with another layer of sealant, lay beads for china walls, then bolt it down.

Tightening the intake down isn’t causing your problems.
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:24 AM
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When you take the manifold off again from the saran wrap, place the manifold n a flat surface and see if it rocks back and forth or from side to side. I was having trouble with into manifold gaskets leaking and it turned out that the intake manifold was a bad casting and it was not flat; there was a slight twist to it. Ordered a new intake manifold and the problem was solved.
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