Electric fans burning out the fuses

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by BAsque1

UPDATE ON THE CAUSE
After much digging it all came down to the hose that holds the thermostatic switch for the fans( top hose) it was a contraption ready to literally blow with two hose components totally collapsed due to the weight of the design of this contraption. a brand new hose is being professionally made and hopefully this situation is corrected.

IMO, the top / outlet hose is not the ideal place for the sensor / switch. That will switch on fans based upon the coolant temperature leaving the engine. Others may disagree, but my view is the best place for the sensor is in the bottom hose / return to the water pump and engine. That way you're measuring the return coolant temperature, and if vehicle movement provides enough airflow and cooling the fans won't come on. A second choice would be a probe that goes into radiator fins.

Once downside of the bottom hose location is you may need a different sensor / switch if the one you have isn't adjustable. You may want to switch on fans at a lower temperature if you're reading it from the water pump inlet temperature / lower hose.

[CompClassics]

I would agree with cycleguy55, install a aircraft type breaker switch (toggle type). I was having a similar problem with a clients car. At start up or if he blipped the throttle the current surge would blow the cooling fan fuse, not good if you are stuck in traffic and you have to get to the side of the road to change the fuse. We installed the aircraft type circuit breaker and it’s worked out well. If the breaker blows all you have to do is cycle the toggle switch to restart the fan, You don’t have to pull off the road to change a fuse either.

[ng8264723]

Those sensors that are locate inline are very sensitive to air bubbles. To make them run correctly you need to fill the system under vacuum. I doubt that is the cause. The hoses collapse because the system is not full.

https://www.amazon.com/WIN-MAX-Engin...s%2C147&sr=8-1

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

IMO,...
the best place for the sensor is in the bottom hose / return to the water pump and engine. That way you're measuring the return coolant temperature, and if vehicle movement provides enough airflow and cooling the fans won't come on. A second choice would be a probe that goes into radiator fins.

Once downside of the bottom hose location is you may need a different sensor / switch if the one you have isn't adjustable. You may want to switch on fans at a lower temperature if you're reading it from the water pump inlet temperature / lower hose.

ERA uses the bottom hose method. The thermo-switch is pretty low, at 75C, but the fan seldom comes on except when the car is stationary.