Club Cobra Gas - N Exhaust  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Cobra Talk Areas > ALL COBRA TALK

Welcome to Club Cobra!  The World's largest non biased Shelby Cobra related site!

  •  » Representation from nearly all Cobra/Daytona/GT40 manufacturers
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and nearly 1 million posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Keith Craft Racing
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
Keith Craft Racing
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
October 2020
S M T W T F S
        1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17
18 19 20 21 22 23 24
25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree5Likes
  • 2 Post By patrickt
  • 1 Post By patrickt
  • 1 Post By Blas
  • 1 Post By patrickt

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2020, 07:03 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Long Island, NY
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default Power source suggestions? I'm all ears

Howdy all. Last night I read an old thread about the Stebel Nautilus air horns and by the grace of Amazon, it arrives tomorrow. And with COVID on the brain (ie, I'm bored), last night I started wiring.

Before I ask this question, you should know that I didn't build the car, so I'm not sure exactly what wires were used and not, but the builder did do a phenomenal job notating right on the wiring diagrams, so i'm pretty confident.

Question: I'm thinking I'll put the horn relay at the horn to minimize wiring.
(this vid shows the horn I ordered and wiring necessary https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tK9lB1hH-8w )

So since the horn DK Green and Black wires get plugged into the relay, if I run a 14ga wire off a power source capable of delivering 18 amps, this seems to be the simplest way to wire the thing up with the least amount of wiring. So last night I ran one power wire from the horn, inside the factory harness, all the way inside the car.

GET TO THE QUESTION ALREADY!

I'm debating tapping into the unused heater BRN-HEATER wire coming off of the 20amp fuse in the panel which is switched power, or tapping the heavy battery wire coming up on the passenger side from the battery, which is constant of course. I will put an in-line 20amp fuse. (I think there are two red power wires coming in on the passenger side. I think one feeds the fuse block and looks like 8ga or something very thick, and one is thinner which I assume feeds toe ignition switch. Am I OK tapping the thinner one?)

Is it better to have constant power to the horn at the risk of having an always hot power wire, or is it better to have switched power to the horn and know that wire is dead when the key is off.
(I located that heater wire above drivers right knee, verified it's the right wire by pulling the fuse, and I don't THINK it's used for anything else.)

I'm inclined to go with the constant power, ALSO ASSUMING that tapping into the main feed wire is not a problem.

Thoughts? Other suggestions on pulling power from? I'm all ears.

Name:  FFR Wiring Harness Screen Shot.jpg
Views: 389
Size:  38.9 KB
__________________
Adam
Fulfilling my lifelong dream to own a Cobra... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
MKIV FFR 347 cid, Levy T5, 3.55 3-link.

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2020, 07:28 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 111
Not Ranked     
Default

If you want the horn to remain "hot" even with key off, there's the option of
adding a battery cut-off switch in trunk next to the battery. This way there's always
the ability for full battery isolation where all circuits are cold. It's also a nice safeguard
against any known/unknown parasitic draw that can kill a battery during storage. It
also allows for less reliance on a battery tender.


Just remember that the cut-off needs to handle peak current demand so get a good one.
Flaming River's "Big Switch" is $125. Pricey but hey, buy once cry once.

Here's a link to said good one:

https://www.flamingriver.com/index.p...0006/FR1044LED

Last edited by Unique427; 08-29-2020 at 07:35 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2020, 05:40 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Long Island, NY
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default

That was fun! I decided to run it hot and of course I have an easily accessible in-line fuse if I needed to pull it. The power wire is totally inside the factory harness anyway. Nice and safe.

https://youtu.be/ebneUuevMI8

And for your listening pleasure I thought I'd see if you can hear the horn over the engine...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wy5qgf77i9...ormal.m4a?dl=0

Hey, that sounds much better on the recording. Not even too loud! LOL

I used my cell phone's native recording app and just placed the phone on the center console.
__________________
Adam
Fulfilling my lifelong dream to own a Cobra... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
MKIV FFR 347 cid, Levy T5, 3.55 3-link.

Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2020, 02:38 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 8
Not Ranked     
Default

My point is overbuilding by 100-150 watts is necessary. Overbuilding by any more than that is unnecessary and just an excuse to burn the money you worked for. 1200w power supplies may have a place in absolute monster, larger than life, pedal to the metal computers but not for 99 percent of the computers that most of us are actually building.








Tutuapp 9apps Showbox

Last edited by winkytill; 10-19-2020 at 06:51 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2020, 03:04 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

You really don't need a fancy isolating switch. In fact, the simpler the better. An old fashioned big copper knife switch handles hundreds of amps and is really easy to visually check. And it pretty much never breaks.

Ron61 and Gaz64 like this.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 07:12 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Long Island, NY
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
You really don't need a fancy isolating switch. In fact, the simpler the better. An old fashioned big copper knife switch handles hundreds of amps and is really easy to visually check. And it pretty much never breaks.

That strikes me as very dangerous since it's pretty easy to drop a tool or somehow make electrical contact.

In my jeep I installed this HD circuit breaker for the winch so that power is off whenever not in use.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...nstall-260339/
__________________
Adam
Fulfilling my lifelong dream to own a Cobra... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
MKIV FFR 347 cid, Levy T5, 3.55 3-link.

Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 07:20 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam View Post
That strikes me as very dangerous since it's pretty easy to drop a tool or somehow make electrical contact.

...
Ehhh, I don't know... calling out dangerous on a Cobra is like calling out stink on a pig.
legenmetals likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 08:14 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Long Island, NY
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Ehhh, I don't know... calling out dangerous on a Cobra is like calling out stink on a pig.
LOL. Fair enough.
__________________
Adam
Fulfilling my lifelong dream to own a Cobra... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
MKIV FFR 347 cid, Levy T5, 3.55 3-link.

Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 08:57 AM
spdbrake's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lyman, SC
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #53
Posts: 988
Not Ranked     
Default

If you're using the Knife switch you may want to pick one of these Lucas Harness Smoke Replacement tools. Great for the originality crowd.

Lucas - Prince of Darkness - Lucas Electrical Humor Jokes
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 09:08 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spdbrake View Post
If you're using the Knife switch you may want to pick one of these Lucas Harness Smoke Replacement tools. Great for the originality crowd.

Lucas - Prince of Darkness - Lucas Electrical Humor Jokes
You know, the wiring on my Cobra is far and away of higher quality than on my daily drivers. This weekend I spent several hours chasing down, and finally finding, a faulty ground that is relatively notorious in the Jeep world. One headlight had gone out on me, and showed no ground feed at the light. When I ran a quick supplemental ground to the headlight, the dashboard brake light would stay on! When I ran a supplemental ground to the brake fluid sensor switch, I got the brake light to behave normally. Obviously my bandaid fixes were not the final solution and there was a sneaky ground issue somewhere. When I finally found the answer on a Jeep forum it was a faulty ground in a nine-wire ground bundle to the frame that fails invisibly up from the crimp. From the outside it looked absolutely fine and you couldn't wiggle it to produce any tell-tale effects. But when you cut it open, the connections would literally crumble in your hand.
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 10:37 AM
spdbrake's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lyman, SC
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #53
Posts: 988
Not Ranked     
Default

Troubleshooting is fun and your wiring skills are good. I'm just giving you hard time is all.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2020, 11:10 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spdbrake View Post
Troubleshooting is fun and your wiring skills are good. I'm just giving you hard time is all.
No worries. The thread on the Jeep forum that solved my problem was literally titled "Are you trying to diagnose bizarre electrical activity? This is your answer." Seriously. There were guys on there saying that when they used their turn signal that the doors would unlock, if they tried to unlock the doors the wipers would start, all sorts of absolutely bizarre stuff. Never underestimate what a bad ground can do, especially in modern cars.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2020, 10:14 AM
Blas's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,167
Not Ranked     
Default

There are two different paths you can take with a cut-off switch. The easiest and least expensive is a simple on/off switch unit. (I have one for sale in the for sale section) this will be the easiest to install with both wiring and location. It will only disconnect the battery for maintenance, hence locating in trunk (near battery) is the norm. It will “ NOT” Shut off a running car because the cars Wiring harness will just look to the alternator for power and continue to run And switching this switch off with the engine running can cause a dangerous surge and damage electrical components. But for isolation it works just fine. If you want something that will safely shutdown a running car, go to the Pegasus Website (#4430) and purchase their unit. A lot more wiring is involved and locating it has limitations due to all the wiring involved. But it will shutdown a running car safely. Most cars just use the isolation switch. Easy as pie...
Blas
bingo2 likes this.
__________________
Wiring Diagrams: SPF MKII, MKIII, GT40, CSX7000, CSX8000, and Shelby Sebring & Bondurant Tribute Cars.
Owner’s Manuals: SPF MKII, CSX7000, CSX8000, Sebring, Bondurant, & Cinema Tribute Cars.

Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net

Last edited by Blas; 10-21-2020 at 12:28 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2020, 03:17 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Long Island, NY
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 162
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
You know, the wiring on my Cobra is far and away of higher quality than on my daily drivers. This weekend I spent several hours chasing down, and finally finding, a faulty ground that is relatively notorious in the Jeep world. One headlight had gone out on me, and showed no ground feed at the light. When I ran a quick supplemental ground to the headlight, the dashboard brake light would stay on! When I ran a supplemental ground to the brake fluid sensor switch, I got the brake light to behave normally. Obviously my bandaid fixes were not the final solution and there was a sneaky ground issue somewhere. When I finally found the answer on a Jeep forum it was a faulty ground in a nine-wire ground bundle to the frame that fails invisibly up from the crimp. From the outside it looked absolutely fine and you couldn't wiggle it to produce any tell-tale effects. But when you cut it open, the connections would literally crumble in your hand.

What year Jeep?
__________________
Adam
Fulfilling my lifelong dream to own a Cobra... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
MKIV FFR 347 cid, Levy T5, 3.55 3-link.

Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2020, 03:22 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam View Post
What year Jeep?
2013 and the ground bundle is known as the G110. It is nine separate wires all crimped to one eyelet that is bolted to the frame on the passenger side of the car adjacent to the engine.
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2020, 04:15 PM
Gaz64's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,521
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
2013 and the ground bundle is known as the G110. It is nine separate wires all crimped to one eyelet that is bolted to the frame on the passenger side of the car adjacent to the engine.
Can we see a photo of this ground terminal arrangement please Pat?
__________________
Gary

Gold Certified Holden Technician
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2020, 04:21 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 20,371
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
Can we see a photo of this ground terminal arrangement please Pat?
Here is a guy named Pittsburgh Pap that did a 17 minute video on the exact Jeep ground problem. It's actually a pretty good vid.

Gaz64 likes this.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink