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hauss 08-31-2021 10:23 PM

high engine temps
 
I noticed my temps starting to climb, when rpms exude 3000 . Not sure what to do about it. Timing, larger radiator, water pump, cannot change pulley because of coged style belt system.

Mr Barnwood 08-31-2021 11:10 PM

Hello Hauss, this is Joe Mangelos from Ripon and I see you like motorcycles too, I also am into antique motorcycles besides Cobra’s. If you are ever near Ripon and would like to take a old bike out for a ride just give me a call. I have Harley Knucklehead a 1941 Indian Four along with a few others, in addition I have a nice shop with a lift that we can put your Cobra on if need be. Call or text anytime 209-614-0456
Joe

1795 09-01-2021 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hauss (Post 1496551)
I noticed my temps starting to climb, when rpms exude 3000 . Not sure what to do about it. Timing, larger radiator, water pump, cannot change pulley because of coged style belt system.

Haus,

How high are the engine temps you are seeing? Coolant only, oil only or both?

Jim

hauss 09-01-2021 09:23 AM

Joe I will be at the valley springs car show, Saturday the 4th of Sept . Temps are hitting 215 but will go past, if I do not back off. I have oil cooler, but only pressure gauge for oil. My thoughts are water pump, but not sure if that is the fix. Did not want to just start throwing parts at it. Hoping to get some options from others, who may have had the same problems.I have tried red line water wetter and it did not help at all.

1795 09-01-2021 09:36 AM

If you take the fan belt off of the water pump and spin the shaft is there any wobble, grinding or other sign that it is starting to fail?

hauss 09-01-2021 09:59 AM

No wobble no leaks man o war block witch I have read holds more heat because more iron

1795 09-01-2021 10:21 AM

I have a Dart block and it has the same problem. The extra iron acts like a heat sink. Check the oil on your dipstick and see if it looks burnt. Synthetic oils can withstand higher temps than dino oil.

twobjshelbys 09-01-2021 10:33 AM

Could be running lean

cycleguy55 09-01-2021 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hauss (Post 1496564)
Joe I will be at the valley springs car show, Saturday the 4th of Sept . Temps are hitting 215 but will go past, if I do not back off. I have oil cooler, but only pressure gauge for oil. My thoughts are water pump, but not sure if that is the fix. Did not want to just start throwing parts at it. Hoping to get some options from others, who may have had the same problems. I have tried red line water wetter and it did not help at all.

215F is not excessively hot. Have you tried to keep running it to see where the temperature levels off?

You can run a lot hotter than that in a pressurized cooling system, even with water. For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3 F. 13 PSI would have a boiling point of 251F (212F + (13 x 3)), while a 16 PSI system would have a boiling point of 260F. https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/tech...ling-point.pdf


Ethylene glycol, of course, will raise the boiling point. Evans Waterless coolant will raise it even higher.

Questions:
  1. What thermostat are you running? Temp rating? High flow or standard?
  2. Is your water pump under-driven? Does it cool down at lower RPM? To what temp?
  3. Is your radiator sealed to prevent airflow from bypassing it?

NROTOXIN 09-01-2021 11:31 AM

You didn't state what your readings have been under the same conditions in the past. Same, different?

I don't live in seasonal freezing temperatures so nothing but distilled water and water wetter, even in high 90s, works for me.

cycleguy55 09-01-2021 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NROTOXIN (Post 1496571)
You didn't state what your readings have been under the same conditions in the past. Same, different?

I don't live in seasonal freezing temperatures so nothing but distilled water and water wetter, even in high 90s, works for me.

No ferrous metal in your engine or cooling system?

Edit: NM, I see Water Wetter has rust inhibitor. The first owner of my car ran straight water with an iron block and heads. It has been flushed numerous times, but the residual rust chewed up the seal in at least two water pumps that I know of. Previous / 2nd owner replaced the pump once (that I know of) and I replaced it again one year after I bought it. 6 years now and all good so far.

hauss 09-01-2021 02:29 PM

If I keep going, it will go to 250f in a mater of minutes .I have a 185 stat. like I said if I run it at 3000 rpm this will happen every time.If I keep it at 2500 or less never a problem even on a 90f day it will run about 210f

1795 09-01-2021 02:42 PM

I am thinking that Tony may have hit the nail on the head. There are very few reasons that I can come up with that would explain running 2500 rpms or less at 210F and going to 3000 or above jumping up to 250F. Mine was running hotter than normal (220F) at Pitt Race and I upped the jetting by a size on the Webers and the temp dropped back to 210F. You might want to try some slightly richer main jets and see what happens.

You might also want to see what your timing is set at. Under 2500 rpms you are more than likely not at full advance, which will usually kick in depending on the distributor around 3000-3500 rpms. Too much advance could lead to overheating as well.

twobjshelbys 09-01-2021 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1795 (Post 1496588)
I am thinking that Tony may have hit the nail on the head. There are very few reasons that I can come up with that would explain running 2500 rpms or less at 210F and going to 3000 or above jumping up to 250F. Mine was running hotter than normal (220F) at Pitt Race and I upped the jetting by a size on the Webers and the temp dropped back to 210F. You might want to try some slightly richer main jets and see what happens.

You might also want to see what your timing is set at. Under 2500 rpms you are more than likely not at full advance, which will usually kick in depending on the distributor around 3000-3500 rpms. Too much advance could lead to overheating as well.

I'd give advance a first look. It's RPM related - and a cliff at that. Ignition timing is that more than fuel mixture...

jhv48 09-01-2021 05:13 PM

Check the temp of your radiator hoses. Both should be very hot. If one or both are cold, Replace your thermostat.

hauss 09-01-2021 05:33 PM

Thank you all. I will try the simple suggestions first and work my way up. I will post the results .

Blas 09-01-2021 07:07 PM

If you have electric fans, make sure it (they) are operational. If the fans are inside the engine compartment, be sure they are pulling air thru radiator. Fans should be shrouded to maximize their efficiency. Fans activated at a lower temperature also help. Is your front opening sealed all aground to trap captured air and direct it thru radiator. A manual fan switch is helpful too.
Some have had good results with the Evans coolant....
Blas

cycleguy55 09-01-2021 09:00 PM

Check to make sure the lower radiator hose isn't collapsing. If it's the least bit soft or doesn't have an internal spring to stop it from collapsing under suction that could restrict coolant return as RPMs rise, resulting in rapid heating.

joyridin' 09-02-2021 05:46 AM

Sure you do not have a blown head gasket?

hauss 09-05-2021 09:45 AM

no not the head gasket went for a drive to the valley springs car show and guess what drove in 95 degree weather temps never shot past 210 kept rpm below 3000.something is telling me water pump.


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