Do we have any experienced auto painters on here?

[767Jockey]

First off, in full disclosure: This is not for my Cobra. My older (2005) motorhome has the paint basically burned off the crown area over the windshield. The Texas sun has just burned this area up. I'm not sure if this question violates site rules. If so, mods, please delete this. However, even though in this case it's for my motorhome, I believe this can help some guys who might be considering doing paint work on their Cobra's too.

Here we go with the situation and the question:

It appears that the base coat is mostly intact, the majority of the issue is with the clearcoat. However, I doubt the basecoat can be saved. My plan is this - sand with 800 grit until I have a uniform smooth surface. Sand again with 1000 grit to reduce sanding marks. Prime, spray basecoat, spray clearcoat, wet sand, polish and wax. I've got a full array of 3" and 6" random orbit polishers (Griots) as well as a 7" rotary buffing setup to take care of the final polishing, with lots of different grades of pads, compounds, waxes, etc on hand as well.

Questions:
- What primer would be best.
- What grit paper to get down to on the primer before I spray the basecoat.
- HVLP or LVLP gun for the basecoat? This is a small area, about 14 inches tall by 8 feet wide. I'll be using a 25 gallon compressor. Not ideal, I know but the area isn't that big. I want this to come out nice but it doesn't need to be perfect show quality.
- What size tip in the gun and what pressure at the gun to spray basecoat at?
- HVLP or LVLP gun for the clearcoat? Again, pressure and tip size?
- Lets say the base coat comes out with some orange peel. Do I wet sand the basecoat before I clearcoat it, or do I clearcoat right over the orange peeled basecoat and hope the clearcoat evens out visually the orange peel in the base coat, then wet sand the orange peel out of the clearcoat?

Again, I want this to look nice, but I don't need perfection. This area is 13 feet above the ground. It's not like anyone is going to get way up there to examine it closely. It needs to be clean and shiny, that's about it.

Hopefully the answers to this will help some Cobra guys thinking about painting their own cars too.

[spdbrake]

I've used many guns and systems over the years. I've gotten the same results with a $40 Harbor Freight gravity gun as I did with a $600 DeVilbiss gun.

I really like using the 3M accuspray setup. disposable cup liners and Lids, disposable nozzles, only have to clean the needle. I've gotten lazy and crap in the gun and it acting up with a fresh load of paint makes me chain together curse words....

This kit comes with everything you need to get started.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-26580-Accu.../dp/B001UNZIP8

Whatever the paint system you choose. make sure the etching primer, color coat, clear coat (if you're using one) are all the same brand.

On the sanding: 320 random thru the clearcoat, 400 block sand, etch primer, 400 block sand, Topcoat light coats till all areas have no flash edge, wait 10min between. You should have no orange peel.

If you do have some, wet block sand 400 or 600 till smooth. same sanding if you're going to clear coat it.

The goal once done it is have a finish that will not need compounding and wet sanding to look right.

Eastwood has some pretty good how-to videos and decent paint systems.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMb...Kx-zKDchXjeNfQ
https://www.eastwood.com/

Last thing, you should build a tent to prevent trash from causing you to throw things.

[MAStuart]

First off 800 /1000 grit is way to fine for primer to get a good bite to. Most places would be using 80 to 180 to prep the area for primer. The primer would then be sanded with whatever the paint manufacture calls for. A lot of base coat call for 400 grit but some calls for as fine as 800 grit. Most of the time bass coat is not sanded unless it is screwed up . Then it is usually resprayed then clear coated. If the paint is to be blended into the area around the primed area it needs to be prepped for blending. If the area has hard lines to be painted to after the area has been primed the whole area will be sanded with whatever grit the basecoat calls for.

[mrmustang]

Disclaimer: I do not care what you saw on YouTube or read on forums all over the web, painting is not easy, and the materials you are handling can shorten your life cycle if you are not ultra careful.

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

First off, in full disclosure: This is not for my Cobra. My older (2005) motorhome has the paint basically burned off the crown area over the windshield. The Texas sun has just burned this area up. I'm not sure if this question violates site rules. If so, mods, please delete this. However, even though in this case it's for my motorhome, I believe this can help some guys who might be considering doing paint work on their Cobra's too.

Here we go with the situation and the question:

It appears that the base coat is mostly intact, the majority of the issue is with the clearcoat. However, I doubt the basecoat can be saved. My plan is this - sand with 800 grit until I have a uniform smooth surface. Sand again with 1000 grit to reduce sanding marks. Prime, spray basecoat, spray clearcoat, wet sand, polish and wax. I've got a full array of 3" and 6" random orbit polishers (Griots) as well as a 7" rotary buffing setup to take care of the final polishing, with lots of different grades of pads, compounds, waxes, etc on hand as well.

Questions:
- What primer would be best.
- What grit paper to get down to on the primer before I spray the basecoat.
- HVLP or LVLP gun for the basecoat? This is a small area, about 14 inches tall by 8 feet wide. I'll be using a 25 gallon compressor. Not ideal, I know but the area isn't that big. I want this to come out nice but it doesn't need to be perfect show quality.
- What size tip in the gun and what pressure at the gun to spray basecoat at?
- HVLP or LVLP gun for the clearcoat? Again, pressure and tip size?
- Lets say the base coat comes out with some orange peel. Do I wet sand the basecoat before I clearcoat it, or do I clearcoat right over the orange peeled basecoat and hope the clearcoat evens out visually the orange peel in the base coat, then wet sand the orange peel out of the clearcoat?

Again, I want this to look nice, but I don't need perfection. This area is 13 feet above the ground. It's not like anyone is going to get way up there to examine it closely. It needs to be clean and shiny, that's about it.

Hopefully the answers to this will help some Cobra guys thinking about painting their own cars too.

Originally Posted by MAStuart

First off 800 /1000 grit is way to fine for primer to get a good bite to. Most places would be using 80 to 180 to prep the area for primer. The primer would then be sanded with whatever the paint manufacture calls for. A lot of base coat call for 400 grit but some calls for as fine as 800 grit. Most of the time bass coat is not sanded unless it is screwed up . Then it is usually resprayed then clear coated. If the paint is to be blended into the area around the primed area it needs to be prepped for blending. If the area has hard lines to be painted to after the area has been primed the whole area will be sanded with whatever grit the basecoat calls for.

420 grit would be the coarsest I'd suggest using, then jump to 600 grit, 600 grit will still give enough bite for the primer without leaving noticeable sanding scratches. Finish the primer with a 800 grit, forget about anything else numerically higher.

As for the OP, since the clear has failed, and the base looks good, you'll still need to sand through the base and primer over, as you do not know if the base had an interaction with the clear, or vice versa causing the issues you now have.

What paint, base/clear of course, you will not need more than 3 quarts of each. As for brand, that depends on your budget and what the local automotive supply house carries. Do not let someone talk you in to this brand or that brand, as there are 30 brands of paint here in the US, and only 3 manufacturers who supply the product to them these days.

Equipment wise, even using a HVLP gun (my last being a set of 5 Sata RP Digitals), paint tip size will depend on the product you choose to use, your 25 gallon compressor will not be sufficient the area you expect to spray. On top of a gun for base, you'll need a separate gun for clear, and a 3rd gun for primer. 100 gallon air compressor (minimum), 3 filter desiccant set up to remove moisture and oil from the air line leading to the guns. Paint suit (what you are spray can be absorbed in to your skin), proper automotive respirator (what you breath in can kill you). What you have not asked about is also important, you'll need reducers, mixed for the temp and humidity conditions of the hour you actually spray. Without a proper mix, you are throwing your hard earned money away.

Sand
Prime
sand
prime
sand
prime
sand
(repeat until absolutely smooth, paint does not self level and once the clear is on, will show every imperfection you missed)
wipe with tack cloth sprayed with automotive dewaxer/degreaser
wiper with clean tack cloth
mask off (if you don't do this well, you will have overspray on your entire RV and will pay twice as much to have it professionally removed than the cost of having a professional do the paint work in the first place)
wipe down again with a clean tack cloth
spray base (do not let this run, multiple light coats are better than 1 or 2 heavier coats)
Allow to flash over
Spray clear, the same technique applies
Let dry 24 hours (I said let dry 24 hours above 50 degrees, and not in the direct sun)
If no runs, you are done, do not bother to wet sand and buff, if you are not experienced, you'll end up buffing through the clear and have to start the whole process over again.
Wax, NOT FOR 3 MONTHS OF TEMPS ABOVE 48 DEGREES, IF EVER!!!!!!

See, isn't that simple

Bill S.
Retired bodyshop owner

[Alfa02]

Bill S. is a 100% right. After years & years wrenching on my cars (race, street cars) I left the body work & painting to the pro's. 3 HUGE reasons, 1- after spending months getting the car ready for the season, only to have the car ready to go, and the paint (me doing it) turned out like crap, someone would say nice car too bad about the paint (Ego there) 2- My buddies (Paint guys) knew what they were doing. We traded "flavors" (Beer, labor, almost never Money 3- most important, health. You need the correct pieces to protect you from the nasty stuff, painting does to our body's. I know I loss a few painter buddies (Far too soon) from that. My $.03 Cheers TommyRot.

[767Jockey]

Bill S. has forgotten more about painting than most ever knew!

If he says don't try it, I believe him. I give up.

[spdbrake]

You should go for it. It 95% prep and a applied trade ( meaning it takes practice ). But it’s not hard. Frustrating sometimes yes.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

Bill S. has forgotten more about painting than most ever knew!

If he says don't try it, I believe him. I give up.

I did not say "don't try this at home", I only gave you the advice that you sought on what it will take to do it right, and what cautions you need to take so as to not adversely affect your health.

Bill S.

[joyridin']

Well, you can pass on it if you want, but everybody that became a professional got that way from starting out at the beginning. I have painted quite a few of my own cars at home. The last few with basecoat/clearcoat and they came out great. The people at the paint store I bought from were a huge help also. They sold me what I needed to do the job.

I'm not sure if I am ready to paint my Cobra yet, but you never know. The problem is the cost of all the supplies has gone up so much, it is almost detrimental to do it at home anymore.

[sunman]

Bill said it all “sand prime sand prime sand prime”
Makes a mess. We have Metro Tech school for auto paint 2 nites a week 4 hours a nite 1 semester for $300. Drive in or trailer. Pros helping you, great equipment do your thing drive away. Van Halen Red for me.
We built the school recently it’s state of the art and the mess is environmental controlled.
I love painting crank up the tunes become the paint robot spray it

[twobjshelbys]

Auto painting is a skill that takes time and practice to get right. I put it in the category of many construction skills, particularly drywall. I do it when I have to but found that I can pay someone to do it and they'll have it done quicker because they do it all the time. Therein lies the downside of amateur kit builders - you have to learn many skills that take time and practice to do right and that you'll do once in your lifetime.

[sunman]

What Tony said.
If your not a painter already I would get the car to tech school 2 nites a week and see if you got snap
Aim for getting a smooth primer body and see if you like doing it
There is so much technical info you gotta get now
I do home paint but now I consider the school as booth rental cost, it’s an unreal bargain.