Mallory fuel system

Ant · #1 (**permalink**) 08-10-2003, 08:54 PM

Thinking of using Mallory Comp 140 pump and associated parts from Mallory, I hear people saying that Mallory Ignitions aren't that great and break down, but I have heard that of MSD as well.

The Mallory pumps are apparently quieter than a Holley, and cost a more! any experience with Mallory fuel pumps and return to tank style regulators would be much appreciated!

kountzecobra · #2 (**permalink**) 08-10-2003, 09:36 PM

I had a Mallory 140 pump and a return style regulator on my Cobra when I built it. Had a bit of trouble with the pressure building up at idle. At first, I was using 3/8" lines for return and supply. Then I went to 1/2" return and it worked OK. Rebuilt the regulator (Replaced the diaphrams) 3 times in 2 months. Finally got everything working OK, then got a wild hair, pulled all that crap off and installed a mechanical pump with a 1/2" fuel line and haven't looked back in a year. I personally like the simplicity of a mechanical pump. The less crap (Moving parts) I have to worry with, the better I like it.

Reliable? I'm not sure.

Ant · #3 (**permalink**) 08-11-2003, 01:13 AM

kountzecobra,

Did the pump work okay?
You say you got a wild hair, not sure what you mean!

Mallory have a new 4307M Competition return style regulator that has a diaphram which is compatible with all fuels, and supposed to be better!

Try it and see I suppose!

750hp · #4 (**permalink**) 08-11-2003, 02:37 AM

Ant - I have all good things to say about the 110 Mallory, but I'd scare you if I gathered all the failed 140s together and took a photo of them. I personally have seen more than 15 failures of the 140 on high-perf street cars. I have a big question mark over their quality control, specifically as it relates to clearances / tolerances within the pump. Interestingly, no metal fragments ever seem to come from the pumps as they fail, but they sure don't pump fuel like they should after they start getting noisy.

I can't remember how much power you're currently making, but my own car has had a Mallory Comp 110 for probably 7 years now, without a problem. When I had a 13:1 compression 472 cube big block in the car making a genuine 590hp, the little 110 pump did the job without fail. I fitted the motor and fuel pump the night before a big drag race, and was worried stiff about the capability of such a "small" pump. We monitored fuel pressure during the run, checked spark plugs after each run etc, etc. Mot a problem. After that, I was confident that the pump could keep up, and it's been gong strong ever since.

Ant · #5 (**permalink**) 08-11-2003, 08:31 PM

Craig,

That worries me slightly, as my engine man suggested these pumps for their quietness and efficiency, so I ordered the 140 Comp, new 4307m return regulator and the comp fuel filter, and it all arrived yesterday!

I suppose if it fails I can buy a Holley/BGfuels, or even 110 Mallory and slot it into the fuel system!

750hp · #6 (**permalink**) 08-11-2003, 08:59 PM

Ummmm, well - if you already have it...... they're not THAT bad...... :0

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

Ant · #7 (**permalink**) 08-11-2003, 10:18 PM

Not as yet, I am considering running a Holley Pro, normal double pumper bolt pattern 750cfm on a Dart blocked overbored 347, running AFR 205 heads with Probe internals etc I am a mechanic but have this engine builder friend who builds some of the best speedway etc engine here downunder, he garauntees me over 500bhp on a bit under 10.1 comp, depending if we get 98 octane fuel here in the next year I will make it 10.1.

Back to the fuel pressure guage, I will need one, I am running Autometer Cobra gauges, but see there are liquid filled gauges available, what do you recommend?

750hp · #8 (**permalink**) 08-12-2003, 02:56 AM

Mate, what do the Dart blocks cost over there? They're out of control over here - beautiful piece, but many guys over here end up using an early 351W block rather than spend the big bucks for a Dart or SVO block. Is there anything to stop you from going with the taller deck height of the 351W?

I've always liked the liquid filled Pro Comp gauges. The liquid really stops the nedle from fluttering. My current gauge is for EFI (100psi), and it's a dry gauge. It shakes from 40 to 45 psi while cruising, and annoys the hell out of me. When the pressure goes up with boost, it steadys. My datalogging shows that the fuel pressure remains steady, and it's just the gauge shaking around. That's not to say a liquid filled gauge wouldn't look a bit out of place in your car though....

There's a guy here in Brisbane that's regularly building 600+hp single carb motors that run 98 octane on the street, so 500 should be easily achieved with your combo. I've found that Comp Cams seem to be the current manufacturer of choice amongst the hipo ford guys here lately.

Good luck with it all,
Craig

Ant · #9 (**permalink**) 08-12-2003, 08:21 PM

Craig, not exactly sure of what the Dart block is around NZ$4K, will be buying in a few months after we have a trip to the other halfs homeland in the UK, then I can spend up - hope our buck is still up against the Greenback $

Want to keep the engine to the smallblock size, even though a good block is going to add a few kilos! This thing is going to work as it will be reasonably light with a carbon tunnel incorporating baulkheads and tubes down to front suspension, a mildly enhanced ladderframe, alloy 8.8.

The next question is knock ons or bolt on wheels.................?

750hp · #10 (**permalink**) 08-13-2003, 06:44 AM

I don't know how tied up on originality you are with this car, but a guy has sent me some emails trying to sell off some of his privateer V8 Supercar parts, including his TechnoMagnesio wheels and new wet tyres. These are the centrelock type wheels, which I think everyone excpet Larry Perkins' team is using.

Let me know if you want to find out parts and shipping prices for these.

Ant · #11 (**permalink**) 08-13-2003, 03:29 PM

Craig,

I wouldn't mind centrelock hubs, but I reckon if I am going to go to that length I am better to go for something like Trigos, but need to run either 15" might get away with 16" for classic racing here, as they have tightened up on regs. My car isn't as original as the first one I built, just a collection of some old car parts and some new race parts!
I see Robnell has the original type wheel, maybe they are Trigos, or he makes is own, I have emailed him several times but no reply.

I have anguished over the knock on wheel idea, don't really like them for the expense and more potential problems with them, but I will walk past the car when finished and say I wish I had fitted them.

Ant · #12 (**permalink**) 09-20-2003, 04:04 AM

What sort of pre carb fuel filter do you guys use, or recommend with your Mallory 110?

I have an inline 500gph performance Mallory 40 micron pre-pump filter, this is what they recommend, I asked the Mr Gasket tech advice, and they say this filter before pump is sufficient for the whole fuel system, and I am thinking what if the pump starts to sh$t and all the material is going to end up either in the carb or bypassing back through the system.

I see companies like Aeromotive, Paxton make nice paper element 10micron pre carb filters.