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11-26-2003, 01:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Does anyone have a Toploader for sale?
One in reasonably good condition...that is rebuildable?
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11-26-2003, 04:19 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin,
Posts: 3,505
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Not Ranked
I have one that I rebuilt from all new parts and components from David Kee. It is a special "one off" White Stripe Toploader aka the "Sebring Box". It has special gearing (ratios) that the standard TL does not have. For a more complete discussion of the special White Stripe TLs, go to David Kee's website www.4speedtoploaders.com for that information.
David did the required machining for me and sent me all the required components. Everything down to the shift rails and detents are new.
If you are looking for a simple rebuildable unit, email me and I can walk you through what you probably will need to complete one.
Last edited by Cal Metal; 11-26-2003 at 04:23 PM..
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11-26-2003, 06:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Hey Cal...that sounds like a little more than I would probably be wanting right now. I think I was just wanting to find a nice buildable one and get some more experience under my belt. Hopefully I can find something at this swap meet this weekend. I will definitely email you as I will probably need some pointers. :-)
I have a lot of questions right now....for one....I know there were TL's for big blocks and small blocks...the lengths and shaft diameters were different...but were the bellhousing mounting flanges the same pattern? So much to learn...hehehe
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11-26-2003, 08:00 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin,
Posts: 3,505
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Not Ranked
You will want an eight hole "wide case" as opposed to the narrow case. Watch out for the three speed overdrive units that looks just like a Toploader but isn't. Check out David Kee's site on Toploader Imposters. It will help steer you clear of that unit.
You want a 24 inch tranny with the small input (1-1/16 spline). The output will be correspondingly small, as well.
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11-26-2003, 08:12 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Is that the optimum, or will any tranny work? I think I'm gonna have to get a new bellhousing anyway...see my other post for all that crap...
But I am also building my 390FE...A Toploader should work with either engine, right?
Can you explain why I need a wide case and a small input?
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11-27-2003, 03:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Plantersville,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Self Built, 427 USRRC, 427FE, Toploader
Posts: 583
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Not Ranked
TOPLOADER
blykins,
When you're at the meet, check out the RUG model 10 bolts, they're cheap since they are of a later vintage, but are very similar to the HEH 64-66 "collector" big input shaft models.
They were the Type 5 four speed and not as sought after, they were in the 67 thru 1973 FORD/MERCURY/MUSTANG that uses the C1MM mounts just as the original COBRA.
The RUG models were in Galaxies, Fairlanes, Torinos, Cougars, Falcons, and Mustangs. The RUG-AK, RUG-AS, RUG-AU, RUG-AZ, RUG-BA1, RUG-BG, RUG-BG1, and RUG-V1 are all 31 spline that a lot refer to as a NASCAR box, the only NASCAR box in the RUG series are the RUG-AZ1 close ratio and they are the "NASCAR" toploader from this series.
The second gear determines the wide or close ratio model, by having 28 teeth on the "close" and 31 teeth on the "wide" ratio. Any swapper will have the cover loose and let you count the teeth, but his price will let you know. With your 390 FE the wide is as good, if not better for street, depending on your rear gear, I prefer the wide since it does not load the motor and let's you really use first gear.
The small input for the 289/302 and 6 cylinder cars are fine in the 2400 lb cars
You will need a HURST shifter and modify the lever and mounting plate for it. Final result, very few can tell the difference.
Good luck on the "bartering" since there are some that look for big bucks
since its a "toploader". In LA, ARK, TX, OK, these normally will sell for $250.00 in "need of rebuilding", but good gear sets.
grumpy
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11-27-2003, 05:59 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Hey Grumpy...thanks a lot for the info...you and Cal both.
So I should just look for a RUG model then? What's the difference between that vintage and the HEH's?...just a smaller input shaft? I guess I should have done a little more research before I go up there...but all this has come on suddenly...I wasn't planning on going.
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11-27-2003, 06:03 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Hey Grump....while we're on here....
Would the HEH's be suitable also? Should I look for a small input shaft again, or would anything be fine?
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11-27-2003, 06:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Here...let me ask this way....
Anything should work...HEH or RUG... However I should look for....
1. 31 spline output shafts....
2. Of course, well worn parts....
3. Any length will do considering I don't have a drive shaft yet.
4. Any width of case will do... i.e. what Cal was talking about...wide or narrow case.
5. Any diameter input shaft...I would assume a thicker input shaft would take more torque....
6. Look for the ratio of my choice.
7. An 8 or 10 bolt case will work also.
Does this sound right?
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11-28-2003, 02:40 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin,
Posts: 3,505
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Not Ranked
You are going to have a difficult time finding a 31 spline output. These are obtainable new and, if you find a used one, you need to check the splines for twist.
If I were you, concentrate on the short tail small in/small out (input and output). If you really want a 31 spline, just buy a new one from David Kee. They are not that expensive. If you rebuild, you will probably be throwing away a lot of the existing components, anyway. Concentrate on a non cracked main case and tail.
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