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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 09-01-2007, 07:06 PM
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Here is an alternative setup that I have used on my Cobra for the past five years, Pre-Luber Products. Instead of a pressurized tank this system uses an electric pump plumbed into your oil cooler line to pressurize the oiling system prior to ignition. Turning the ignition key to the #1 position begins the process. The pump runs for 60 seconds and automatically shuts off. It provides 40-45 lbs. of oil pressure. The unit can also be set to run for 1-5 minutes after you shut the engine down to prevent coking but I chose to disable that feature on my unit.

The hose to the lower left is the outlet from the pump to the gold anodized T fitting in the oil cooler line (hose on the right). The hose in the middle is the supply hose to the inlet port of the pump coming from the oil pan.

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Last edited by SuperHart; 09-01-2007 at 07:11 PM..
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:59 AM
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Default Not filtered oil?

SuperHart You have a nice system for your peroiler, but there is NO filter for this oil:confused, which comes from the BOTTOM of the oil pan through the drain plug hole. Any metal in the oil pan could get sucked into the motor and bearings through this setup. My oil has gone through the filter first before going into the accusump tank. I hope there is some screens or filters in the lines going and coming from oil pan and into block. Is there a check valve to stop the oil from going back into the oil pan through the supply line? . There was a company that used the dipstick hole to supply oil to a little pump for peroiling a motor. Pump was very strong and it would suckup the crap in the bottom of oil pan if the hose was too long. There was NO filters on the hose. The company was sued and went under. I know you change your oil on a regular basic, but if a bearing starts going bad and shaves, your peroiler could suck up the metal and could spin a bearing and loose the whole motor. Just my thoughts. Rick L. I think it is more for turbo system cars for cool down than motor perlubers.
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Old 09-02-2007, 12:53 PM
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i have the same system on my car; works great. the idea is to put the pump output at the filter boss so that the oil is always filtered. those pumps have screens and check valves to answer your other concerns. with the amount of time and money we put into these cars it would seem foolish not to run some type of preluber; there are no negatives to having one.
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:25 PM
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The way my system is plumbed you are correct, the oil to pressurize the system is drawn from the oil pan. However, the oil is forced through the oil filter before being delivered to the engine so metal is not a problem. I agree that unfiltered oil should not be pumped into the engine and had the same concern until I studied the schematic. If you think about it, the oil route using the Preluber is the same as when drawn from the pan via the oil pump; pan -->oil pump -->oil cooler --> oil filter --> engine bearings. I run a Canton T-sump road race pan. There is a fitting on the side of the sump that I used for the preluber pickup. Therefore oil is sucked from approximately one inch up from the bottom of the pan, actually higher in the sump than the oil pump pickup is located (1/2" from the bottom). There is indeed a check valve in the Preluber unit that prevents reverse oil flow back to the pan. Unlike the Accusump, this powered system is great to use to pressurize the engine following an oil and filter change. Just turn the key to ON and allow the unit to build pressure. I have noted that following an oil and oil filter change on an engine with an oil cooler it does take several seconds to build oil pressure at the first start. Without this system the engine would have to be cranked and run without oil pressure for that several seconds until all the air is purged.

For those individuals concerned about loss of oil pressure during cornering, etc. this should never happen if the oil pickup screen was set up correctly to begin with and if there is a proper oil level on the dipstick. Since most of us run a mechanical oil presure gauge and might not be looking at it if and when the oil pressure suddenly drops to Zero, I offer the following suggestion: on the oil pressure gauge fitting on the side of the block install a 1/8 NPT T fitting to allow installation of both the mechanical capillary tube AND an electric sending unit. Plumb the sending unit to a red dash light and a buzzer. If the oil pressure takes a nose dive the light will illuminate and the buzzer will warn you immediately to kill the engine.
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Last edited by SuperHart; 09-02-2007 at 04:47 PM..
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