Electolysis Killed my High Dollar Radiator

[Clois Harlan]

Thought I had a leak in my radiator so I took it into the shop today for repairs. This is a custom made all aluminium radiator from Arts Radiator in New Jersey. As it turns out I have several leaks at the top and bottom of the tanks and other places that are soon to leak also. Tech told me I had a Electrolysis problem.

I know very little about electrolysis but as I understand it, I have a grounding problem somewhere near my radiator. Can someone advise me on a better grounding or remedy to this problem. Now an identical replacement radiator will cost me near $800.00 plus shipping.


Clois

[Rick Parker]

Before installing. Weld a Bung threaded for a machine screw on the side that will allow a wire to be connected and then connect it to chassis ground.

I have also seen radiator caps with a sacraficial anode attached that are intended to decay in lieu of the radiator walls. I have no experience with these but they have been around for several years attempting to address this problem. Outboard motors have a similar anode that is intended to prevent the engine and lower drive unit from corroding.

[Dominik]

clois,

check:

http://www.abrn.com/abrn/article/art....jsp?id=154932

which might help,

dominik

[petek]

Clois,
Are you running an electric fan and are you using the radiator for a ground for the fan? If so, this might be the problem.

[Clois Harlan]

Electric fan yes but grounded to the frame.

Thanks everyone.

[Burnd]

Clois:

Minor detail, but make sure you use at least .10 guage wire for the ground for higher conductivity. The multiplle strand welders wire is great because it has high conductivity and is really flexilbe instead of that stiff stuff. I actually think I have some left over from doing my rad 2 months ago that I can probably mail to you if you can't get it there (NC). I had .14 gauge ground on mine and it was effecting voltage rate to the fan motor plus I had a weak ground, and everything changed when I went to this stuff.

Bernie

[Clois Harlan]

Thanks guys I have plenty of the stranded wire I just need to cough up the cash for a new radiator. I am going to finish drawing it up tonight and I will include a ground bung. By the way if any of you need a really good (and good looking aluminium) custom made I highly recommend Arts Radiator in Freemont, NJ. He is not cheap but he is fair and does excellent welds.

Clois

[Buzzmobile]

can your old one be repaired or rewelded? there is a local shop here that does custom work, near a bar on sheridan.....ummmm....a place that features....ummmm ladies...that....ummmm, well you get the idea. maybe good for a backup?

Buzz

[Clois Harlan]

Are your referring to Arc Angels'? It probably could but the last thing I want is to be on a cruise or a race track and have my radiator let go jepordizing my Even Higher Dollar 427 engine. The old saying "Pay me now or REALLY pay me later" seems to hold true.

I drew up the diminisions and spec's on a new radiator and I will be faxing it to Arts Radiator in New Jersey today. He told me he could have it done in about a week. I have never had a heating problem of any kind since he this radiator for me back when I was running my 428 (4 years ago).


Clois

[vettestr]

Clois,
As an X drag boat shoe I also saw a lot of electrolysis. The fiberglass hull like our toys made for a grounding problems. The combination of many different metals bolted together (steel block = copper head gasket = alum head and so on....) even without electical components like fans still generates current flow.
Ground everything and run 2 quarts of anti-rust or water pump lube as sold by Prestone or many others. Using distilled water and 50 percent coolant is my mixture but any good mix. The distilled water lowers conductivity because minerals have been removed.
Why do you need a custom size Rad? Many good units are available for far less than 800 bucks but I know it is not hard to spend that and more for some name brands. I also have used several of the 250 dollar unuts with good results?

[rdorman]

That stinks Clois! I run distilled water, water wetter and that prestone lube, anti corrosion stuff and have had no problems (so far, about 3 years).

BUT....

When you get the new, or repaired one back in, be sure that something is not using your coolant system as a a ground. Check for voltage in the coolant (not on the radiator) both with everything shut off and also with everything running. Anything over .1V is to much. If you do have more, try shutting down different curcuits, check engine ground straps (first thing to clean and check), try alternate ground locations until you eleminate the cause. Electricity takes the path of least resistance... just make sure it is not your coolant system!

[RICK LAKE]

Clois I am not buying the ground the radiator. If the radiator is Aluminium, not a single GM car I work on has a ground strap to the rad. You didnot say what coolant or additive you are using, Distilled water, water wetter, and a 50/50 of antifreeze, that rad should last for 10 years. If you are running a 20lbs cap on the coolant system, that's too much. Where are the leaks at? Seams or where the fins are mated to the tanks? Have any pictures? If the wrong mix of solder is not being used it will leak from fins or tanks. GM had this problem with evap cores for the AC system in the late 80's early 90's. the solder was not 60/40 or 50/50 and the oilin the AC system soften it up and they all leaked out freon. I didn't see a harrison sticker on them either, the new one's came with a harrison sticker and we never had to replaced them. If the radiator is copper, a flush every year after racing should take care of any problem. Radiators should last 7-10 years with maybe 1-2 flushs in there life span. My 85 truck still has the same rad in it with green coolant and no leakes or problem yet. This radiator is copper. Rick L Ps did you get the tires mounted??

[rdorman]

Rick is right, do NOT ground the radiator. In fact, mount is so that it can not be used as ground.

[Power Surge]

For what it's worth, factory cars usually have rubber mounts top and bottom, so this wouldn't happen on an OEM car.

But I have also never heard of the grounding thing (doesn't mean it's not true). I have always put an additive in aluminum radiators that is suppose to stop this.

[Clois Harlan]

Since I don't know for sure about the grounding issue I am basically repeating what the radiator guy told me. The one thing I know for sure is that it leaked and fairly quickly. I was only running tap water and no addative.

Just for kicks I am going to take it over to another local radiator shop that a couple friends have recommended. I hope I don't get distracted and go next door to the _ _ tty bar (Night Trips).

Clois

[rdorman]

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

I was only running tap water and no addative.
Clois

Ouch! Please don't do that again Clois!

[rbray]

I'm bringing this to the top because I might have this problem and maybe others can benefit from this tread.
Anyway I noticed that my car was leaking a little coolant from the water neck.

After removing the water neck I noticed significant pitting an corrosion so it looks like I have an electrolysis problem.

GEEEEEZ is there any end to the pitfalls with this hobby.

The car has 3k miles on it and I've always run distilled water and a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. I guess some part of my cooling system is grounded.
So, isn't the intake manifold grounded along with the rest of the engine and thus by default the cooling system is grounded?

Brent I really feel like saying some bad words but I won't unless you give me the ok

I need to test for current in the coolant, but I have no clue how to use the volt meter that my wife gave me for Christmas. Can anyone tell me what settings I should use?

thanks for letting me vent