Anyone put together their own steel braided lines?

[Dangerous Doug]

Anyone put together their own steel-braided hoses and lines? I'm making a fuel line from pump to carb, and what a pain in the arse.

Seems simple enough: big hose into a small hole---nothing I haven't accomplished before---but no force is sufficient to get this one in.

Am I missing somthing? Special tools? Mechanical competence?

I have -6AN hose, and a -6AN connector that goes to a threaded connector (which in turn, will go to an elbow and into the pump). Cannot get the -6AN hose into the -6AN connector female. THEN, I've got to hold it in place while a male connector screws into the female with the male into the end of the tube.

I'd just be happy getting the large tube into the small hole.

Yes, I'm still talking about steel-braided lines!

DD

[Woodz428]

I do it all the time. I usually tape around where I want to cut and then use a thin cut-off wheel. I like to use electrical tape and cut through the tape and line, that keeps the wirebraid from becoming unraveled. I use WD40 as a lube when "sliding"( pushing/turning) the hose onto the fitting. Never had a leak. After the first couple it gets pretty easy.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Woodz428

I do it all the time. I usually tape around where I want to cut and then use a thin cut-off wheel. I like to use electrical tape and cut through the tape and line, that keeps the wirebraid from becoming unraveled. I use WD40 as a lube when "sliding"( pushing/turning) the hose onto the fitting. Never had a leak. After the first couple it gets pretty easy.

I do the exact same thing and it's no big deal......You may need a little practise, but as Woodz says, after a few you get the hang of it......

One other thing I do, is after cutting my hose, always blow out the hose with air and then with a piece of copper wire (stripped romex) with a clean cloth on the end to get out any debris left from cutting the hose...........

It's not that hard, unless you "ravel" the wire ends, in that case, re-tape the end and re-cut it............

David

[Jerry Clayton]

Doug

there are some combinations of different manufacturers that aren't easily compatiable????some hose is bigger than some other persons fitting and it is difficult--

Aeroquip hose and fittings are good, Earl's hose and fittings are good---mixed they might not be too good

[Dangerous Doug]

The mix and match issue may be my problem. I think I bought Summit Racing hose (don't know who makes it for Summit) and Earl's connectors. That had occurred to me, but you'd think they were standardized sizes, being "-6AN" and all...

I'll try going with one manufacturer. Not giving up yet.

[MFE III]

I do it all the time. I usually tape around where I want to cut and then use a thin cut-off wheel. I like to use electrical tape and cut through the tape and line, that keeps the wirebraid from becoming unraveled. I use WD40 as a lube when "sliding"( pushing/turning) the hose onto the fitting. Never had a leak. After the first couple it gets pretty easy.

I do it this way as well and no problems. I like to use blue painters tape first then electrical tape over it for the cut. That eliminates the sticky residue on the hose from the electrical tape.
Here's a link from Earls with a how-to video : http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
Matt

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

The mix and match issue may be my problem. I think I bought Summit Racing hose (don't know who makes it for Summit) and Earl's connectors. That had occurred to me, but you'd think they were standardized sizes, being "-6AN" and all...

I'll try going with one manufacturer. Not giving up yet.

Unless you got a defective end or hose, they should all be the same....I've bought hoses from 3 or 4 different manufacters and the same with ends(who ever had the best price at the time), even bought a box of used and new AN fitting of varouis sizes and manufacters off evil bay and still using them....some hoses/sizes are a little harder to work with than others, but for the most part, interchanging makes should not matter...........

I use a high speed cutter very similar to this one, probably 10 bucks or less at Harbor Freight.......

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...and%20Nibblers

David

[jwd]

I've mixed manufacturers as well with no problems. Summit brand hose is made by the same supplier as the other "big name" hose sellers. My problem with braided hose is that I always end up bleeding when I work with it.

Jim

[DAVID GAGNARD]

My problem with braided hose is that I always end up bleeding when I work with it.

I did too, my secret is leather work gloves, works like a charm and no blood on the nice AN fitting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

David

[JJCobra]

This tool works so well it is almost cheating....... I made all of the lines for my car and I'm sure it saved many hours. The smaller the line the harder it seems to get everything together though with this tool, every size was a snap. I used regular masking tape and fine tooth hacksaw and had no troubles.

http://www.koultools.com/

Good Luck,

Jason

[jwd]

Wow, $75 to speed up a 1 minute job to only 45 seconds. I guess I have more time than money.

Jim

[Jerry Clayton]

we use a cutter much like a cable cutter on the hose---no tape needed, no debries to wash out--make lines in place on the car--little pricey at a little over $100 but really simplifies the cutting of the hose and no debries /garbage to wash out

[speed220mph]

Here is a page from Aeroquip's literature that has some good ideas on putting together braided hoses. These folks have been at it for many years.

http://64.202.180.37/files/tchart.pdf

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

we use a cutter much like a cable cutter on the hose---no tape needed, no debries to wash out--make lines in place on the car--little pricey at a little over $100 but really simplifies the cutting of the hose and no debries /garbage to wash out

Jerry; like this one?????

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5299...se-Cutter.html

A couple of guys I know use a similar tool and say it works great, I'm fixin to order a few items from Speedway and this will be one of them....

I really haven't cut any lines in a while as it's something I don't do everyday. My AN lines/fittings seem to last almost forever or at least for the last 4 or 5 years..........

David

[Tom Wells]

+1 for the Koul tools

-1 for Speedway Motors: their AN hose doesn't fit anything!

Tom

[wtm442]

I've put braided steel line on a lot of cars. Always used Earl's products with no problems and no leaks and I've probably spent more than $3K in line and fittings.

The most important step in the procedure is cutting the line. If you use electrical tape, make sure it is on very tight to make sure the wire mesh does not stick out when trying to push it thru the hose end. Put a little lube on the inside of the hose end when pushing it on ... but push while twisting the hose end so it slides on easier.

Follow the instructions. Nothing worse than a braided steel line leaking.

If you have not done it before, you can buy the carb hose/fittings already assembled. If you intend to do a lot of braided steel lines, there are specialized tools that makes cutting the hose easy.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM-900040

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Don't think I've ever bought any hose from Speedway, but have bought a bunch of other stuff (mostly wheels and tools) and have been very pleased with the stuff.......

Another good supplier with low prices and fast deliver is DayMotorSports in Texas, if I order before 4:00pm, I have it the next day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.daymotorsports.com/

David

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

Anyone put together their own steel-braided hoses and lines? I'm making a fuel line from pump to carb, and what a pain in the arse.

Seems simple enough: big hose into a small hole---nothing I haven't accomplished before---but no force is sufficient to get this one in.

Am I missing somthing? Special tools? Mechanical competence?

I have -6AN hose, and a -6AN connector that goes to a threaded connector (which in turn, will go to an elbow and into the pump). Cannot get the -6AN hose into the -6AN connector female. THEN, I've got to hold it in place while a male connector screws into the female with the male into the end of the tube.

I'd just be happy getting the large tube into the small hole.

Yes, I'm still talking about steel-braided lines!

DD

Doug,

Making braided stainless AN lines is very easy to do. If you are working with -6 or larger, you should have no problems (-4 lines [gauges, etc.] are harder but still doable). The most important part is to get the lines cut correctly. The best way to do this is the wrap the area to be cut with duct tape and use a new, fine toothed hacksaw blade to cut the line. If you do a lot of lines, I'd suggest getting a hose cutter like this one from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900040/

Blow out the line after its cut to get rid of any dirt or shavings, remove the tape carefully to prevent fraying of the braid and then "screw" the hose into the fitting. You should get a set of AN hose end protector jaws for you vise and a good set of AN wrenches (including an adjustable AN wrench).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCM3661/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900101/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900124/

AN wrenches are made of soft aluminum and they will minimize scratching of the finish on anodized hose ends. You may need to use a standard steel adjustable wrench for smaller lines to get enough torque to assemble the hose ends. If you do this, take you time and get a good, tight fit with the wrench before you start to tighten the hose end to assemble it to avoid scratching the fitting.

You might also want to get some VHT red and blue metal tint paint to touch up any scatches that might result during the assembly process.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/anodized.html

Use a heavy oil (or the special stuff made by Aeroquip, Earls, etc) to lubicate the inside of the hose and fitting before you screw them together. You should put oil in three places: 1) inside the hose, 2) on the nipple and threads on the hose end and 3) on the threads in the collar that you installed on the hose.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM3553/

Your should tighten the fittings just a bit before the hose end contacts the collar. This way, you can line the wrench surfaces up nicely before the become tight. Lastly, if you are going to make alot of lines, you might want to get a pressure testing kit (Earls makes a good one) so you can pressure check you hoses for leaks before you put them into use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-D016ERL/

Also you can take a look at KOUL's AN hose assembly tools. These make getting the collars onto the hose MUCH easier. I recommend them if you are going to make more than a few hoses.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3330

This is a useful item for speeding up the assembly of hoses.

The only things that you really need to do a few hoses is a hacksaw, electical tape, jaws for your vise, and a set of AN line wrenches. All of the rest of this stuff just makes the job easier.

I have found that the quality of AN hose and ends varies quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. I pretty much exclusively use Aeroquip materials for my AN lines as I think their product is the best. They also have a really good catalog that explains all of the details on how to make AN lines. You get download their catalog at the following location:

http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products...E-MC001-E2.pdf

I did all of the AN lines on the blown motor shown below in my home shop. Give it a try. Its fun and the results look and work great! I hope that this information helps you.

[Barnsnake]

My favorite method is to use two screw-type stainless hose clamps about 1/8 inch apart. Cut between them with a cutoff wheel and the braid on both sides is under control. When you get ready to put the collar on, loosen the clamp a bit and it will slide back down the hose as you thread the "collar" onto the hose. After the fitting is installed, loosen the clamp until it will slide over the fitting (or loosen it all the way apart if needed).
It is also a good idea to chamfer the inside of the hose before you clean it up and blow it out. This will ease installation and prevent cutting a "flap" on the inside of the hose when you screw the fitting in. A small amount of light oil on the inside of the hose is a must. Too much oil on the outside of the fitting can "hydraulic" and damage the connection's integrity.
A set of special vise jaws (from Summitt, etc.) makes the job much easier, especially if you are making a number of hoses.

[JustOne]

A guy at the local speedshop told me to use bolt cutters, which I did, and it works great. I can put a hose together in less than 1 minute.

Justin