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427 Block help
Hello,
I have a 427 side oiler block. How do I find out what is is from? Thanks Scott |
what are the letters on the side ?
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Look on the side of the block, down on the skirt, for something like "C6AE-C" or similar. Many folks here can help you if you get that number.
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you won't be able to tell what it is out of. the only info on the block will be next to the oil filter adapter. the date of manufacture and what foundry it was cast in. most side oilers will not have an engineering number on the side. most of these blocks were sold over the counter from 1965 to 1973 or supplied thru ford racing subcontractors like holman moody.
Fred if you need the date code info breakdown email me and i will send you a copy Quote:
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Here is what I could find.
On the front of the block is 86 352 On the bottom is E 9525 On the rear is 66 427 These are the only numbers I could find. Any idea of value, we are looking to get rid of it. Thanks Scott |
Scott, it's a freaking boat anchor! But I'll take it off your hands for a dollar. I need an anchor!:LOL:
Steve |
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the value of it will be determined by a whole host of things. not just its date. Fred |
427 Block
Their is a good chance it is a replacement block and it would not have a number beyond the date code listed on the area where the block is machined to place the oil filter.
Some pictures would help. |
I found the casting next to the machined area. The best I can make out is..
E 9J28 Does this make sense? Thanks |
The reference guide I have has the " Ford Bore Number " for the 427 from 1963 to 1968, nothing matches your number.
Examples would be: C3AE-M in 1963 and C8AE-H in 1968 A 427 High PErformance Side Oiler in 1965-66 is listed as C6AE-D |
Date Code
If the 9 has two dots under it, is is a 79 block, if not it is probably a 69
Year, Month(J), day 9J28 I think... |
I believe the 9 with the two dots under it does in fact indicate a 70s block. As you said that would make it a 79. I don't believe ford made any 427s at the very end of the FE run. Quite frankly yours is the latest FE I've heard about. I may have missed it but did you say if the bottom end is "cross-bolted"?
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9J28 is the date code of 69/Sept/28th. It may have 2 dots under the 9 as stated. There were no more service 427 blocks made in 79. Those were not made after 73. Service replacement or over the counter block as after 68 there were no more 427 production vehicles. 68 Cougar GTE was the last one with the 427.
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Glad you cleared that up, I was chomping at the bit. I have the 427 out of my GTE in the basement. 68 was the last year.
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if there are ribs running down the sides of the block they are an inch or so wide and are raised about 1\16 to 3\32, then it is a service replacement block. if no ribs it was still part of production for parts sales. some will say the service blocks are not as good, but for a street application it will probably outlast you. if the block checks good and has no issues use it. if it has issues and you need a good one let me know i have a motor on the stand fresh from the machine shop and a balanced reciprocating assembly ready to go. Fred |
A man who once worked for the Ford Parts Division told me the two dots represented a block not destined for a production line car, i.e. service or over-the-counter block. Don't know if that's true or not.
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Fred the "E" is just part of the mold ID system. This was to help catch problems down the line with the molds. Your block was cast at DIF (Dearborn Iron Foundry) and should see the foundry callout letters on the block. Good luck.
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If I am not mistaken, all service blocks were also machined for hydraulic lifters. They came with block off plugs/pins but were easily converted. Most likely because the '68 427 was a hydraulic engine.
I just disassembled and documented a 427 service shortblock. The date code was an Omega sign instead of a number for the year. Does anyone know what that stands for. It was a service block with hydraulic lifter supply machined, but was sans the ribbing. I surmised that the Omega sign was a code designation used on service blocks/engines. Any opinion? |
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My block was factory machined/cast as you describe. I found this one in good shape although it had been bored out. I sleeved all cylinders taking it back to fifteen thousandths over and chose to block off (plug) the the oil channels, drill out the plugs, and run solid lifters, as you say the conversion was fairly straight forward. |
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