427so vs 482so

[sparks]

Is there any advantage or disadvatage between the 2? Mild builds(not wild)

[undy]

Originally Posted by sparks

Is there any advantage or disadvatage between the 2? Mild builds(not wild)

torque and TORQUE

[Jerry Clayton]

The 482 has a 1/2 longer stroke---that means that the piston travels an extra inch every revolution---higher piston speed

The ideal FE for a cobra would probably be a 427 destroked to 396" like they ran at the short Nascar tracks

Jerry

[FWB]

if i had to do it all over again i would stick close to the factory 427, you can't even get all that hp and torque to the ground. there is no advantage to doing a burnout at 70 mph.


Fred

[sparks]

good point!

[Anthony]

Originally Posted by sparks

Is there any advantage or disadvatage between the 2? Mild builds(not wild)

I have a 427 (actually 429 ci, 4.250 bore, 0.017" over) in my car, and it put 488 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheels. A 477 ci in a similar car put 476 torque at the rear wheels. My friend who has a 482 hydraulic roller built by a respectable builder, on a different dyno, put 420 ft-lbs at the rear wheels. Yeah, for any given build, the extra cubes will give you more torque, but 427 ci will give enough as well.


If you get a used complete motor, you don't have to buy another crank. The engine will remain a "true" 427.

If you buy a stroker crank, 3.98, 4.25, etc. you get more cubes, but also you get BBC rod journals, that are slightly wider and shorter, which is better. You will also get more torque, although top end HP will be closer to the same.

No matter which way you go, you'll be fine, assuming you put it together correctly.

[RICK LAKE]

Sparks What rear end and gears are you using?? What trans do you plan to run in the car. If you build both motors with the same parts except for the crank, as undy said, MORE TORQUE, and HP. If you advance the cam shaft you can kill the low end of the motor. This will give you bigger power in the upper rpm range. IMO running a stroker kit from say, Barry R or KCR with BBC rods is a big plus. The cranks are setup for the proper oiling of the rods on the compression stroke. The rods have a wider bearing to handle more load and abuse. The kits are dropin with min. work. Power wise you will get 60-80FT of torque and about 50-70 more RWHP. Numbers off the motor on the dyno is over 100 for each. You can also run a little bigger cam shaft and still have the motor idle without looping. Price different is about the same with the balance work done. Bigger motor will not work as hard as smaller motor. It will have the same power at a lower rpm. You can run a lower gear in the rearend, 3.08-3.31. You don't need anything higher, the car will be a B!T$H to drive and enjoy. My 482 makes over 500 and 500 on the dyno. It the car it is over 400 and 400 to the wheels. It is a torque motor and a hand full. Will in the spring advance the camshaft 2 degrees and take out some of the bottom end power. The car is still easy to drive with a small hydro roller setup. You should have the suspension setup and checked to handle this power. Without seeing the car, add about a 30% increase in spring rate and get a good set of shocks like QA1s. The stock system will work fine if you are drive street and not into pushing the car hard in turns. Must cobra push through turns. Rick L. Ps how's is my speeling getting and what's a parAchute graph??. JAMO?????

[undy]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Sparks What rear end and gears are you using?? What trans do you plan to run in the car. If you build both motors with the same parts except for the crank, as undy said, MORE TORQUE, and HP. If you advance the cam shaft you can kill the low end of the motor. This will give you bigger power in the upper rpm range. IMO running a stroker kit from say, Barry R or KCR with BBC rods is a big plus. The cranks are setup for the proper oiling of the rods on the compression stroke. The rods have a wider bearing to handle more load and abuse. The kits are dropin with min. work. Power wise you will get 60-80FT of torque and about 50-70 more RWHP. Numbers off the motor on the dyno is over 100 for each. You can also run a little bigger cam shaft and still have the motor idle without looping. Price different is about the same with the balance work done. Bigger motor will not work as hard as smaller motor. It will have the same power at a lower rpm. You can run a lower gear in the rearend, 3.08-3.31. You don't need anything higher, the car will be a B!T$H to drive and enjoy. My 482 makes over 500 and 500 on the dyno. It the car it is over 400 and 400 to the wheels. It is a torque motor and a hand full. Will in the spring advance the camshaft 2 degrees and take out some of the bottom end power. The car is still easy to drive with a small hydro roller setup. You should have the suspension setup and checked to handle this power. Without seeing the car, add about a 30% increase in spring rate and get a good set of shocks like QA1s. The stock system will work fine if you are drive street and not into pushing the car hard in turns. Must cobra push through turns. Rick L. Ps how's is my speeling getting and what's a parAchute graph??. JAMO?????

Still got a buzz on Rick??

[Burgs]

Originally Posted by undy

Still got a buzz on Rick??

[RICK LAKE]

undy Have a bad case of the flu. using 3 drugs at this time.. Have to go to work today should be fun. Have no voice. Rick L.

[undy]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

undy Have a bad case of the flu. using 3 drugs at this time.. Have to go to work today should be fun. Have no voice. Rick L.

I know, fighting the same crud myself.. Mine hasn't gone to my fingers though.. Get well buddy!!

Dave