Pin drive bolts splitting Help Please

[1985 CCX]

I use Vintage Wheels and have never had a problem. I did not use locktite either, after a season or two you will need to replace the pins if removed as they will be beat up upon removal. They do not just come off they require elbow grease and a few skinned knuckles.

35-45 lbs should suffice as they just don't come apart even if loose. Think about it, they need to come loose inside a fitting which in turn is snugged to the unit via the wingnut. Not likely.

[jwd]

Vintage Wheels recommends 80 - 85 lbs. AND high strength thread locker.

Jim

[Blas]

Right from the CC "Forums" "Vintage Wheels" area:
www.vintagewheelsus.com/fitting-instructions-KO-08.doc

[priobe]

Vintage Wheel uses a different type of pin. They will not work with the PS engineering wheel.

The pins used on Trigo are compatiable with PS Engineering.

The Pins that split are the newer Pins with the Torque (star) design

[cdnus]

After damaging many Vintage pin drive nuts on installation no matter how carefull I was, I decided there had to be a better way.
My solution was to machine a steel sleeve (blind hole )to slip snuggly over the nut the full length & on the external end (solid) bore a hole just large enough to allow the hex wrench to slip through & into the nut.
It is imprtant to keep the wall thickness as heavy as possible & the guide hole reasonably long for the best support.
With this little tool I have been able to install & remove my adapters with never seize & 80ft. lbs. many times with out any damage & my wheels slip on & off easily.
Simply, what it does is support the O/D of the nut while helping to keep the hex wrench in line, therefore not allowing the wrench to strip the hex & damage the O/D of the nut.
Works for me, hope this helps,

Craig

[David Kirkham]

I am not sure I understood everyone here on this thread, so I will apologize in advance. No offense is intended to anyone.

If you have to change your pins after 1 or 2 seasons, then I think your pins are WAY too soft. I don't think there is any way a properly hardened pin should have any problems no matter what monkey puts on the rim. The aluminum rim is simply too soft. Frankly, I have NEVER seen a drive pin wear out. (I have seen several broken ones, but that was from crashes).

We used to torque our drive pins (3/8" thread--original size) to 35 foot/pounds. You can (and should) tighten 1/2" threads significantly higher. Now that we mill our drive pins directly into the hub, we don't worry about Locktite or torquing them any more

As for the pins, I would recommend a material that can safely be hardened to Rockwell C 40-45. That means 4140 chromoly or something like that THAT HAS BEEN PROPERLY HEAT TREATED! I hate machining 4140 and the like so the last batch of pins I made, I carved out of 17-4 stainless. Nice and bullet proof.

As for what Trigo is doing right now...can't say. I don't know. I do know I would clean the surfaces really well and use red Locktite, however. I would ask them what they are making them from. It would be interesting to find out. I am not sure what you all mean by "splitting." Though I must say, it doesn't sound good.

David

[patrickt]

35 and red, I tried to tell 'em....

[Ant]

The torque settings I take as a guide and wind up until they are snug and tight, I would use blue loctite as the red is too severe in my opinion.
As mentioned earlier in post make sure there isnt a fitment problem.