Pin drive bolts splitting Help Please

[csx wnab]

Originally Posted by patrickt

80 ft/lbs for the drive pins is too much. The specs for my drive pins are 35 ft/lbs with RED Locktite.

according to mike evangelo at dynamic in ohio. 80 lbs.-no locktight. do not use an impact at any time.

[Blas]

Just thinking out loud here...wondering if a industrutable pin design would mean the rim itself gets destroyed? I still think there is another issue here with the pins getting loose in the first place...
David, if you used the basic Trigo style pin, but only drilled and tapped the internal threads into it to a depth required by the wheel stud. (flat bottomed tap) Then machined the hex on to to end of the pin just enough to get a socket on to it. I have a few new Trigo pins to use as reference if you like...

[David Kirkham]

The rim can only get hurt if there is relative movement somewhere (either by the pins moving or the wheel moving). Neither one is good. Making the pins out of good material will not solve either of these problems. (Unless the material is so lousy it is yielding and the pin is coming loose). Making the pins out of lousy material can have all sorts of other undesirable effects. Making the pins out of good material only has benefits.

David

[David Kirkham]

Blas,

Drop them in the mail to me and we will get this sorted out. Thanks for helping. Any parts you need? I'll make you a good deal!

David

[Dominik]

Dear David!

Thanks for your help. Everything here in SA is closed down, but I can get a drawing from CAV in a week or so, as well as information how deep Wheelcraft/WAW in Pretoria (Vintage) drills the wheels.

I am afraid, that the wheel stud is too long to accommodate a machined nut with hex head and not bottom out when tightened (or the nut now too long to sit inside the wheel)

The CAV GT40 studs could be shorter in the first place, because they are made up.
Possibly the stud diameter of 3/4" allows for a 1/2" thread and a 5/8" hex? That can be checked in CAD quickly.

Cutting the existing studs is possible, but a pain. Expect to wear out one speed grinder disk per wheel (5 studs). And now they are too short in case someone wants to fit 5-lug rims...
Nevermind restoring the thread.

I get the needed information soon and with the help of the forum we can find a solution. Just now I don't have a car or wheel&adapters here to take measurements.

The original/Kirkham version cannot be used for the bolt-on adapter unless we press out the stud, which is not manageable at home. And then we need enough clearance to add a nut to hold the (3/4") stud behind the hub.

Rick did extensive research to make his version work and surely can assist more than me right now.

Dom

[David Kirkham]

No problem. Happy to help.

I'll wait for a pin or a drawing to show up and then we will see what we can figure out.

David

[Dominik]

Ok David.

As for you stud, I agree, having used a similar version for my Contemporary rear hub in 1993. They were screwed straight into the hub as the ones from ERA (?). Made from "tool" steel (can't remember the specs)

I found measurements from Wheelcraft. Their hole diameter is 19.7mm =.775" (!), depth varies from 11/16" to 1 1/4", which is a problem.

LMH's 1-3/16" sounds feasible. That length sounds familiar to my TRIGOs once.

You should ask at SPF and the other big manufacturers to confirm nut lengths and taper angle of the adapter. The adapter is typically 3/8" thick.

Dom

[David Kirkham]

Is this what you guys are talking about???

I had somewhere in the dark recesses of my memory that Lynn Park had sent some of these to us years ago. I just went on an Indian Jones excavation and dug them up. I will look into a way to make these better. It doesn't look too difficult. Looks pretty simple actually.

David

[David Kirkham]

Larry,

Thanks for the pics! If you are down in Provo, I'd like to take a look at those parts to take some measurements. I'd like to confirm angles.

LMH,

Interesting thought...I imagine we could figure something out.

Blas,

What is a WAW wheel? (We have mainly used Trigos over the years).

I will quote the pins tomorrow. I got the stainless quote back late today. Not as bad as I thought. I thought it would be 4 times as expensive as chromoly--it was only 3 times!

David

[Larry N Johnson]

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

Larry,

Thanks for the pics! If you are down in Provo, I'd like to take a look at those parts to take some measurements. I'd like to confirm angles.

David

David

If you mean the two spinners, no problem.
I might be able to snag a Vintage pin from Terry Stapley; you have a correct Trigo pin.

Let me know.

Originally Posted by cdnus

LARRY,
It would be interesting to try the Vintage wheel on the installed Trigo hub & adapter & see if it seats properly with the spinner tightened & vise-versa.
From some previous posts it sounds as though the Trigo pins may be too long for the Vintage holes & would bottom out before the rim seats properly.

Craig

Craig,

If the Trigo pins are too long, the ends can be trimmed a little as long as enough "bite" is left for the tightening tool. I had to machine one Trigo to 4" backspace for the tire to clear the fender on one side. Had to take a little off the pin. (No big deal to me; others may take exception. Do at your own risk.)

On the other hand, w the new Kirkham pins, the length would be critical. Can not whack off the hex!

Anyway, I'll get a wheel from Terry Stapley and try it on my (non-shortened) fronts to see:

1. If the Vintage Wheel mates to the adapter face tight. (not botteming out on the pins.)

2. If the spinner holds it on correctly. We know the Vintage spinner will work. I am not sure how I could tell if the Trigo spinner was ok or not. The angles of contact "eyeball" the same. See Spinner comparison image